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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Perhaps 'stop beam' is a misleading term. Perhaps 'bumper' or 'cushion' might better distinguish it from confusion with a port stop.
  2. It's OK, Kurt. Some of us take just a little longer to get there! The important thing is to arrive.
  3. However, the point of origin of the laser will have to be precisely aligned with the point on the draught, as well as be horizontal and at right angles to the plane of the draught, as well as the draught precisely in line with the model, which will need to be precisely parallel to the draught.... Aaaagh!
  4. Love the grapnel, Maury! Very nice going.
  5. The rule was that you can't cut into the sides of the timbers and thus weaken them to make a gun port. So, the toptimber is either offset on the futtock below (shifted) or cut dog-legged (cast) in order to make the side frame of the port above.
  6. Whichever specie of wood, extremely sharp tool edges are critical to success. Once you need to use blade pressure on small sections, they will break off or crumble if the tool isn't sharp enough.
  7. That's about it, Gaetan. The ray from any point must be normal to its point of origin. And the projected target at right angles to the ray point.
  8. Magnifique, monsieur! That looks terrific, Michel.
  9. If you can get the kind of prices suggested above for a kit, good luck!
  10. Glad that you did plank the counter first, Mark! It was invisible in your previous post. This sequence saves a lot of aggravation. And yes, it is much easier to deal with things when the model is inverted.
  11. Apart from drafting errors, there are almost always issues with prints on paper. Paper movement, distortion in reproduction processes, gremlins; all come into play. The only sane solution is to re-draft on Mylar film and correct everything as you do so.
  12. Silly point perhaps, but I've always found it easier to plank the counters first before completing the wale, as the latter overlaps the former.
  13. Yes, a large section of Colossus' starboard quarter side survived underwater, more or less intact, including the large quarter figure now being conserved. What is your comment or question on port stops, Archnav?
  14. Like Carl, I doubt if projection will give accurate results. Too bad; it would save a lot of time! Even projecting on to a flat surface will result is a degree of distortion due to lens. This will only get worse when projecting onto to a curved surface. I've used threads for some years to line off planking runs. They are easy to view and to adjust, unlike wood battens.
  15. Half hull models are certainly a valid expression of ship modelling, Rob. I'm interested that you are making these at such a relatively small scale.
  16. Good to see you back, Doris. Those decks look great.
  17. Cheery wood?I like that! Seriously, the backbone looks good. And yes, those are 'Harris cut' joints on the false keel.
  18. Petersson, while good, is specific to a particular ship model. No line or block sizes are given, and are in any case for a larger ship than a sixth rate.
  19. Terry: that is an excellent photo of the capstan. It should be easy to develop scale drawings from this if plans are not available. Assume the shorter man is about 5' 5" and the taller one 6' 2" and go from there.
  20. The Granado book is based on a modern model, I believe.
  21. Interesting supposition, Mark, and quite plausible. That structure - whatever it is - is represented fairly consistently in the images that have been posted.
  22. Aaargh! I hate when that happens. And it happens to me frequently. Right now struggling with complex compound angled cuts to assemble some quarter badge munions and lights. I feel your pain, Mark.
  23. Looks like you have spiling down well, Hakan! It's hard to tell from your photos, but are you fitting the plank ends to change from clinker to flush at the stem and stern? If not, you have to make a small rolling bevel on the planks until they fit flush into the rabbet.
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