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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Can you give more information, please? What is the date of this vessel, and is there a profile view (showing the deck levels, etc.)
  2. druxey
    Beautifully done! I particularly like the geared pump mechanism.
  3. druxey
    Looking more elegant each time you post, Frank. Glad you could correct the run of the sheer. BTW, how do the sheer strakes fair into the stem?
  4. druxey
    Wow! That is progress! Did you carve or model the decorative work?
  5. druxey
    It depends whether the boat was rowed 'single banked' or 'double banked'. If a rower had an oar in each hand, the rowlocks were opposite each other, but if each rower pulled one oar, the oarlocks alternated port and starboard, as in the photo above.
  6. druxey
    A very ambitious project and fast progress, Jan. Very nice.
  7. druxey
    If you are painting her anyway, automotive filler does a great job....
  8. druxey
    Looking lovely, but I think Russ is correct. Hopefully it's an easy fix.
  9. druxey
    Planking does get a bit easier with accumulated experience! Have courage.
  10. druxey
    Stains from water are usually superficial and sand off easily.
  11. druxey
    I guess well-built men need not apply....
  12. druxey
    Excellent!
  13. druxey
    Looks good to my eye on paper, Maury! Just avoid a butt one strake below the drop strake end, if that light line represents one. (Use the usual three strake rule if a butt is required).
  14. druxey
    I applaud your attitude to the learning process, Steven. It's a good one! We all learn from our mistakes and experience (if we persist) and each model is better than the previous one. Your current model is an ambitious project, and you should be proud of what you have accomplished so far. Many others would simply have given up and taken up a different hobby.
  15. druxey
    Coming along well, Maury. Getting a nice planking result does take time, but is well worth it in the end.
  16. druxey
    Congratulations on this signal recognition, E&T! I'm sure it's been a pressure cooker for you. Your model looks great.
  17. druxey
    Thank you, Duff, for taking my comments in the spirit that they were intended. One of the joys of this forum is the courteous manner in which we usually exchange ideas. I still have not run down my reference for this tapering, but a distance of 8' 0" to 10' 0" sticks in my mind. Still hunting! I agree with you that there would be geographical, temporal and national variations in construction. Oh, for that time machine!
  18. druxey
    This has been an interesting discussion, gentlemen. There is still a considerable debate of push-and-pull in conservation circles. However, conservation is just that; retaining as much of the original object or artifact as possible. This, to me, is distinct from restoration, where original or missing material is replaced by new. It should be clear to a practised eye what is original and what is not. Also, any treatment should be fully reversible without damage to the original. All work should be fully documented as well. Full disclosure: my own views are consonant with Maturin's.
  19. druxey
    Sorry, Duff, but I beg to differ. Under that planking was an incredibly strong set of bow timbers and cant frames, backed by the inner planking. Compound curved surfaces are much stronger than relatively flat sides (think of an eggshell). And now Pat (Banyan) has provided a contemporary example of this taper.
  20. druxey
    How many layers of SilkSpan are you using? It should be a single layer, except for the reinforcements. That will be light enough not to sag when stiffened with acrylic medium. I'd be very cautious about using spray glue: any remaining unpainted spots will 'grow' dust fuzz.
  21. druxey
    I've used different brands with no issues. Liquitex and Acrylex are two brands.
  22. druxey
    Whew! Looks like you are winning now. Might I suggest using acrylic matt medium rather than white glue? Then, if necessary you can dampen areas of the sail to reshape them without anything falling apart.
  23. druxey
    Steel (Naval Architecture, Directions for the actual building, p.379) says: "Harpins are sawed to the moulds' (italics mine). I cannot locate my reference for the plank tapering at the bow at present, but examination of contemporary models show these planks hooding into the bow rabbet in a smooth line continuous with the bottom planking. There is no change in thickness at the rabbet.
  24. druxey
    As I understand it, the thicker planks, such as the wales, were tapered in thickness as they bent around to the bow rabbet. This would have assisted in any steam bending required. It would be unlikely that the pieces were sawn to shape for a number of reasons. First, reduction in strength with cross-grained areas. Second, exposed end grain that would be more susceptible to rot. Third, wastage of valuable wood in processing.
  25. druxey
    The harpin is simply the curved foremost part of the ribband. And the old-fashioned 's' is referred to as the 'long s'. It was used exactly as Pete describes.

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