druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Ah, of course! Thank you for the explanation, Dick. -
Nice sleuthing! Im curious as to why the 'splice' of the yard was convex/concave, rather than a flat mating surface. Were there no treenails or bolts through the joint? If not, i can understand this more labor-intensive method.
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Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
druxey replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Very nice line you have there! -
May I humbly suggest that, if in a wet-boat, your electronic devices should be protected with a plastic bag? And have an external back-up. My wife's hard drive crashed a few months ago, but everything was saved on our Time Capsule. It was well worth the investment. I'm sorry that you had this happen, Kevin.
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Very well thought out and described, Gaetan! Thank you for sharing your modus operandi. I found that an adjustable height table was invaluable, especially when rigging.
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Excellent fitting work!
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Miniature Russian carving tools
druxey replied to druxey's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I will PM you his e-address, Eddie. I don't like posting this kind of information publicly as it might attract spammers. -
I received a beautifully crafted set of miniature carving tools from Mihail Kirsanov on Friday. There are graduated small bevel-edged chisels in seven sizes, left and right skews in two sizes, U-gouges in ten sizes, a V-gouge and a large(r) skew. The are in a fitted box that includes honing blocks and fine-grit paper. I had the opportunity to give these tools a test-run and they perform beautifully. I can highly recommend these tools for advanced carvers. They are not inexpensive at USD290, but as these are hand-made to order only, this is not excessive. Be aware that Mr. Kirsanov can only communicate in Russian.
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I suspect non-standard kit scales are to fit a certain size of box, or for most economic use of wood sheet.
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Well done, Erik! You managed that last strake beautifully. Take a bow.
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You don't necessarily need an insert: simply make a ply over-table clamped or screwed to the existing table and raise the saw blade through it. Voila! Zero-clearance. All you need do is to re-arrange the fence to slide over this, or glue a wood fence on a the required spacing from the blade.
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There are many ways of solving the problem, and many have already been given. However, another method is by adhering the veneer (or other thin stock) to a backing piece of sacrificial wood. I use rubber cement and basswood for the purpose. I use a slitting blade on the saw, so no clean-up of the strips is necessary.
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Certainly she's already a long way from her 'as received' appearance! This is looking very good, Michael.
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- albertic
- ocean liner
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Looking good, Frank. And thank you for your disclosure on the slot issue. We won't ever tell!
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Just received this news from Model Motorcars as well. This is great to know for many of us! Perhaps this thread should now be re-named "Scale Hardware re-opening"!
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Nicely done. Was there a reason not to cast the trunnions integrally with the barrel?
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Oh, my....
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This is only my opinion, but.... I never plank a hull as in full-size practice, where you end up with a 'whiskey strake' in the middle of the bottom planking. Installing this, as you anticipate, is awkward to do. However, you need to do this now. I suggest that the edges of the planks be bevelled in such a way as to (lightly) wedge them home. I would not make them a force fit. Hopefully this will go well for you. Next model, consider starting at the garboard and working up to the wale. As long as you keep to your mark out (which you are now expert at!), it will go much more easily.
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