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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    So, your feathered shipwright does all the work?
  2. druxey
    With all due respect to lehmann, many years ago I used the method I described on a model for my daughter. It worked fine. Of course, if the ply is too thick, it's another matter, but I don't think kit maker supply wood any thicker than they need to!
  3. druxey
    Cher Michel, C'est magnifique! Thank you for sharing your work with us. Your workmanship is superb. If you continue and rig the model, it will be even more impressive.
  4. druxey
    You will return and continue Bellona, Mark? Be still, my beating heart! Looking forward to the next instalment. In the meantime, wishing you a safe and hassle-free move.
  5. druxey
    I believe that you are correct, Alex. The waterway/margin plank was a longitudinal stringer that strengthened the sides and, like the deck clamps, would have most likely been joined in the same manner.
  6. druxey
    Hearty congratulations on the completion of a very fine model, Chuck! Well done.
  7. druxey
    I guess there is an exponential amount of dust produced as the scale of the model increases! Have fun, Gaetan....
  8. druxey
    As has been remarked many times on MSW: ebony is hard to work, does not glue or bend well and is toxic. It is also expensive. Consider dyeing a different specie of wood black instead. Holly has worked very well for me.
  9. druxey
    Paper patterns won't distort if the adhesive does not contain water. I use rubber cement (a thin coat on each surface, allow to dry and press together).
  10. druxey
    Ditto ditto the comments above!
  11. druxey
    Jaager's suggestion is a very good one, but I was thinking that the pins would be driven in all the way permanently.
  12. druxey
    Great progress.
  13. druxey
    Ah, I see your issue. Probably the best solution might be as follows: Dry fit the false deck and mark across the middle of the bulkheads. Drill holes through the deck for small brass panel pins or similar. Soak the false deck for several minutes in warm water. (Don't leave it too long, or it may delaminate!) Apply a glue such as Bondfast to the tops of the bulkheads, then lay the the deck in place. Pin down starting along the midline and working progressively towards the edges. The small pins or nails will hold the deck in place and shape while the glue sets up. Good luck with the job. Let us know how it works out!
  14. druxey
    Beautiful work, Alex!
  15. druxey
    Is this 'false deck' in one piece and of plywood?
  16. druxey
    Interesting technique for minimizing CA glue issues with your bolts.
  17. druxey
    Look like you fitted the garboard very neatly, especially the tricky bit at the bow.
  18. druxey
    Beautiful replicas, Siggi. Not much use without a frizzen for your flint! I'm looking forward to your next maritime subject. Soon, I hope.
  19. druxey
    I'm sorry to read of your health issues, Hellmut. I hope that the medical community can stabilize things and that you will continue to recover without further cerebro-vascular problems. Best wishes as you recuperate.
  20. druxey
    Excellent find, Dan!
  21. druxey
    With such an extreme 'apple cheek' bow drop planks will be inevitable. Laying out where they should come will be fun!
  22. druxey
    Les; thank you for the reminder. You'll find regular safety warnings in various threads when the subjects of flammables, VOC's, particulates or other hazards come up. However, an extra 'safety' thread would not be amiss!
  23. druxey
    Ed Marple's models, while beautifully made, may not be entirely historically accurate. I'd rely more on primary sources such as van de Velde.
  24. druxey
    Plain or hooked scarphs in the horizontal way would be appropriate.
  25. druxey
    This is a standard we can all aspire to!

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