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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. If the NMM (now RMG) database has mis-identified this, one can let them know by clicking the box below the description: Help us Do you know more about this? Share your knowledge
  2. Ah, well. You still have the evidence of your deck joinery in your photographic records. Well done, Frank.
  3. I apologize for the late reply, Steven: I was away. The clips from Oz are seen in the photo. No idea where my wife picked them up, other than an office supply type store. I imagine you should be able to find them. As for removing 'extra' glue from the interior of the hull, if you used white or yellow glue, it should soften with a careful application of rubbing alcohol.
  4. For those not familiar with 4H leads, these are invaluable (held in a clutch pencil/mechanical holder) for mark-out. Sharpened, they keep a point and one can draw extremely thin lines using them. They improve accuracy of mark-out dramatically! Cliff is offering you a great deal - take advantage of it!
  5. For yet another approach, see the topic under 'Reviews': Swan IV, Sailmaking Supplement.
  6. Thanks for this contribution, Richard!
  7. Good progress, Maury. You might consider raising the demarkation line a little fore and aft before painting the underwater body. It counteracts the optical illusion of the ends of the line dropping due to the shape of the hull.
  8. Yup, it will be a pity to paint that beautiful deck....
  9. Excellent progress, Mike. Looks like you are developing a rhythm!
  10. I note that you live in Oz. I have some small plastic coated bulldog clips that my wife brought back from Australia. They are really useful for model-making in situations like you show. Unfortunately I can't get them here in N. America, but you should be able to find them easily.
  11. Congratulations on reaching this milestone, Steven. De-plugging (if there is such a word!) is always a stressful moment.
  12. Superb metalwork, Ed! Maybe a temporary card protector over them?
  13. I'm terribly sorry to read of your workshop disaster, Karl. But, a phoenix will arise from the ashes. Except it was water, not fire in this case.
  14. Fascinating work, as usual, Gerald. I've seen resistance soldering demonstrated; it is a very useful tool and technique for neat soft soldering. I wish one could silver solder the in the same way!
  15. Gregory: I believe that the popularity of using ebony in models was started by the late Harold Hahn. His stylized models have ebony false keels and wales. Certain trends and fads in modelling come from a wish to emulate star model-makers.
  16. Is the joint soft-soldered? If so, it won't take the strain, or stand annealing. Silver soldering is required, which anneals the metal as the heat is sufficient to do so.
  17. I personally dye wood to resemble ebony, but I mentioned the substitute for those who want to avoid dyes. Mark, I don't know how flexible the product is. I've not tried working with it.
  18. There is a possible substitute for ebony now offered by Lee Valley Tools. As you know, natural ebony is hard to work and glue, as well as creates toxic, messy dust. The polyester substitute is available in rods or sheets. Sheets are about 9" x 11" and about 1/8" thick. Synthetic ivory and bone are also available. I can't vouch for gluing properties or longevity, but these might be worth experimenting with.
  19. Tricky little beasts, aren't they? If you've never made a set of these before, you did well, Toni. There's an Admiralty Models workshop on making head timbers at the end of October. You got to the finish line a little too soon for that!
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