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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Oh my, Karl! Carefully does it on this model.
  2. Even in extreme close-up your work looks impeccable, Amalio.
  3. I've used Titebond without issues. Remember to to make a balanced 'sandwich' with grain alternating directions at the gluing face. The glue does re-activate with heat, but I'd be concerned about how deep into the layers heat would penetrate. Heat is great for simple veneering, though. (See John's posting, above.) I apply Titebond generously and clamp the assembly well with waxed paper or cling-wrap to contain squeeze-out.
  4. Neat work, but the nailing would be less obtrusive at scale.Try flattening the dimpled plates again, and see how that looks.
  5. Looking terrific, Albert.
  6. And I always thought 'Air conditioner' was 'Egg-nishner'! But we digress....
  7. I was thinking if the guides were quite close on either side of the bit, Gaetan.
  8. New from The National Archives, U.K.: British Royal Navy Allotment Declarations 1795-1852 (ADM 27) A naval act of 1795 allowed petty officers, seamen, non-commissioned officers, and marines to remit part of their wages for the maintenance of their mothers, wives, or families. In order to achieve an allotment, the individual needed to complete an allotment declaration, and then their payments were entered into a register of allotments. These records from our collection are now available to search and download through our partners at Findmypast.co.uk.
  9. Interesting set-up, there Gaetan. Would you have better depth control with two wedges of wood, one either side of the bit?
  10. Thanks so much for your rather delayed reply! Look forward to your further experimental results. Hope it was a good trip for you.
  11. The form of construction at this stage is pretty flimsy, so I can see why you need further reinforcement. I'd be nervous about catching those toptimbers! You are doing a very neat job, Frank.
  12. Ah, those treacherous brooms! Had you thought of light cotton duck as a covering material?
  13. Oh, Michael. You've been tinkering again! I had to smile, though. I used to own a vintage Dumore sensitive drill press which I reconditioned. However, I never really used it, so sold it some years ago. Now, if it had been more like your design....
  14. The latest photos show what a mega-model this will be!
  15. Well, Dan, photo-etching has been around for quite a number of decades now....
  16. Ah! Much nicer, Dick. I'm really enjoying learning about these earlier ships from your build.
  17. Nicely rendered, Bob. My suggestion was merely for a lo-tech method to arrive at a similar conclusion.
  18. Greg wrote: My motto - when in doubt, rip it out! Of course that could explain why my models take so long to complete. So long, yes - but they look so nice, Greg! And you'll say the same, Mark. The re-laid deck looks very good, and you'll now have a nice warm glow inside every time you look at it.
  19. OK, try this. Make a shaped mandrel to the form that you want, but at a much larger scale. Then wrap a paper strip near the bottom of the form and run a pencil around to give you the lower curve. Develop the top curve in a similar manner. Take vertical measurements at known intervals (say, every 30 degrees) and join them to the top and bottom curves. The top curve will need to be deformed in this process so the verticals meet at the correct heights. Take a circumference halfway up to see if the ends of the shape need to be curved inward. This will give you a flattened projection of the space you need to construct the lattice on. It will not be like the simple trapezoid shape you posted. Once you've filled in the lattice, the drawing can be reduced to scale size.
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