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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    If you need to measure inside the hull from a baseline (the building board) outside, the best way is a gantry style frame with an adjustable pointer from the cross-piece. Mine slides along the building board and the horizontal scale (if needed to) slides to zero adjust. The vertical scale and pointer are held by friction. Note that there are pointers to each side. Rigidity is provided by L-plates screwed to the sides away from the camera.
  2. druxey
    Oh. Of course, Keith.
  3. druxey
    But where, exactly, is the middle, Keith?
  4. druxey
    I have seen square-hole WW type collets offered on sBay in the past, but they are rare and consequently expensive.
  5. druxey
    Season's greetings, Kevin, and enjoy family time in NYC! Aren't capstans fun to make? You needed to take a break from them, right?
  6. druxey
    But where, exactly, is the middle, Keith?
  7. druxey
    Welcome back indeed, Michael!
  8. druxey
    On most models, as in full size practice, the strake consists of more than one plank, so you can work from both the bow and stern post. The continuous strake is one limitation of this kit.
  9. druxey
    I'm sorry that this discovery has scuttled the plan. However, it would be very difficult to recover even a roughly symmetrical hull. I sympathise with your decision. Perhaps a new model based on this hull?
  10. druxey
    Glad to see you back and recovered, Pat!
  11. druxey
    Sweet! That looks very nice indeed, Chris.
  12. druxey
    Damp hardening won't work on polyester, only cotton. I should have asked first. Chuck set you right on that.
  13. druxey
    Exemplary, Mark!
  14. druxey
    Glad you cracked the problem and it all works now!
  15. druxey
    The unravelling may be a function of the lay of the rope versus the lay of the strands - they need to go in opposite directions, Also, newly laid rope need to be hardened. This is done by stretching it on the ropewalk before cutting it loose. I damp the line as I stretch mine. Done correctly it won't subsequently unravel. And don't knock the look of the machine - if it works, it works!
  16. druxey
    Is part of the deviation issues that you illustrate due to distortion of the original plan due to paper expansion/contraction or in the reproduction process?
  17. druxey
    Congratulations! Long may you enjoy its use. I notice the very useful manual is included in your purchase. You may find, as I did, that a small shim might be required to align the head and tailstock. Some tool bits might also require shimming to be accurately on center. I never felt a more powerful motor was needed.
  18. druxey
    Chacun a son goût: Each to their own. If you plan on lots of turning or have deep pockets, well, it's another nice toy to have.
  19. druxey
    I simply pull a coarse sanding strip back and forth with the spar held in a vise. Rotate the spar about a quarter turn after every few pulls. Finish with fine sandpaper.
  20. druxey
    First class work, as usual!
  21. druxey
    Why any ship modeler would spend serious money on a long bed lathe simply for turning a few spars mystifies me. For a start, parts of a mast are often foursquare in section, and sections of yards are eightsquare. You would also need a four jaw self-centering chuck for this. Real mast and spar-makers don't use a lathe. They cut the spar to a foursquare section including any taper, then eight. For models, it's then easy to round off the spars using sandpaper strips. The secret - if secret there be - is in accurate marking out and making a spar holder that will support the stick at 45 degrees. A lot cheaper than a lather, unless you plan on turning a lot of wood! Some samples of spars at 1:48 made without a lathe in sight:
  22. druxey
    I'd be amazed if you nailed those timbers the first time, Alan! Hopefully the second pair will go perfectly once the Christmas rush is over.
  23. druxey
    Congratulations and very best wishes, Chris. Nice blank canvas for you fill!
  24. druxey
    The Unimat featured in post #43 is fitted with a cross slide attachment to traverse it longitudinally. When engaged it saves a lot of turning a handwheel!
  25. druxey
    My Unimat DB has done well for me now for over 50 years - used, but not abused. The only drawback is that taper turning is a bit awkward. The headstock needs to be turned, as the cross-slide is fixed at a right angle to the bed. The basic boxed set was $CAN99 back in '72!

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