druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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A very promising start! -
There is little available on carronades mounted on the 'outboard principle'. Some years ago I researched these mounts from the early 1780's. Contemporary illustrations are reproduced in Caruana's The History of English Sea Ordnance 1523-1875, Volume II, pages 195 et seq. (The actual model's carronades were cast in pewter.)
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Botanical name of the specie: tilia x europaea
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I believe from previous comments on MSW that this device is a snare and a delusion! One needs to rig shrouds the conventional way - on the model itself.
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Some thought on your dilemma: One, is that really lime wood? The appearance is very different to lime I've used in the past, where the grain is almost invisible. Two, your workmanship is fine - that is not the issue. Three, I note that the grain on some of your futtocks does not run at a tangent to the piece (e.g. photo below 'glue in with titebond'). Avoid cross-grain as much as possible. Four, fit temporary cross-spalls across the toptimbers to maintain designed width. This was done on full sized frames.
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Has the wire been annealed (softened) by heating to red heat and allowed to cool? It won't 'mushroom' if still hard.
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Tiny Spar on 17th Century English Yacht
druxey replied to catopower's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Clare: The reason for my identifying the model easily is that, for the past four years, I've been studying Stuart Royal yachts very closely. I've seen examples or photos of every contemporary model still extant, plus many paintings and drawings of these. In fact, there is now a study model of the original 1683 Fubbs (not the 1724 rebuild!) and a SeaWatch book on her will be published in due course (shameless promotion). In addition, a fellow researcher in England and I are working on a book that covers all 25 Stuart Royal yachts in detail. Now, aren't you sorry that you asked! -
Good repair work; something we all do occasionally!
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- Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack
- Model Shipways
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Håkan is right; some of the models you see are built by veteran professionals. Take heart; your work so far is excellent.
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There may be a terminology issue: the fashion piece is part of the framing at the stern, under the planking. Perhaps you meant the quarter piece. That attaches aft over the planking above the wale.
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Tiny Spar on 17th Century English Yacht
druxey replied to catopower's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The short spar at the right is the gaff for the mail sail, foreshortened. On the jib sails, lowered, I can see what appear to be wood block-like attachments for the halliard. These are Dutch yachts, of course, not English ones. -
Tiny Spar on 17th Century English Yacht
druxey replied to catopower's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
It is a contemporary model with MODERN rigging: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66339 No contemporary painting shows these spreaders. -
Curse those ignorant and over-imaginative 'restorers'! It's things like that that really muddy the waters. I feel your frustration in discovering that your 'primary' source is really a secondary and unreliable one. My sympathy, Steven.
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Spacing looks realistic now, Tim! But observe the line of the channel. It should follow that of the outside planking.
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Is the difference in measurement due to the fact that the cant frame drawing is a projection one, i.e. drawn at an angle to the centerline, not at right angles?
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Your mockup (post #112) shows the first deadeye stlll too far forward of the mast.The aft edge of the deadeye should be about level with the fore edge of the mast (see bottom pic, post #114).
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That's the idea, Tim!
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Check the position of the channels and deadeyes; usually the first shroud is very nearly abreast of the mast. See: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-86243
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Well done! Glad this method works for you. It's worked for me for years for not only scuppers but for finishing hawse holes as well.
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Is that medieval statue hollow, or are those sockets for the hand sections to be fitted that are now lost?
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Congratulations on a great result after a very long haul! Very impressive photos.
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Some pins and rails are seen on Vasa's beakhead.
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Looks very nice, Mark. For drilling scuppers, I start with a very small bit and drill from both sides. Hopefully the holes align, but if not, this can be corrected as one gradually opens out the hole. Again, work from both outside and inside. That way is less scary, for sure, and avoids any splintering out on an exit hole.
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I believe that Maudsley had such lathes earlier; around 1800. The principle was earlier still: Leonardo da Vinci sketched such devices.
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A moisture trap in the air line takes care of condensation. The trick with any airbrush is meticulous almost surgical cleaning after each use!
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