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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    I use 1000 and 4000. If an edge should get a nick, I might use something coarser to get the worst ground off. If you sharpen properly with a micro-bevel on the edge, all you need to do is a few strokes on the 4000 grit to get the tool back to A1 shape.
  2. druxey
    Uh...sure, Jud! Usually the height of the crosspiece above the deck (plank) was in the order of 19" to 20"(mizen) 21" (main) to the underside. The height of the bitt pins above deck: 2' 11" (mizen), 3' 7" (main). Hope this is a helpful guide.
  3. druxey
    Ya gotta keep them tools well sharpened, Maurys! You'll regret it when they are blunt, so you push hard and the tool slips....
  4. druxey
    Unfortunately the images, as interesting as they are, do not solve the issue.
  5. druxey
    My (limited) understanding is that, as the paddlewheel turns, it creates some pressure in the paddlebox. The large space provided inside the box would ameliorate this effect, as did the later fancy perforated boxes seen on side paddle steamers. Can someone confirm or correct me?
  6. druxey
    Post script: The book on this model and making other open boats, both clinker and carvel, is now on the press! Look for an announcement from SeaWatchBooks soon. Thank you again everyone, for your encouragement and support on this log.
  7. druxey
    If you continue to be as meticulous in your cross-measurements as you have been, all should work out well, Maurys. I find re-measurung and checking constantly the only way to avoid reaching for the isopropanol!
  8. druxey
    Exquisite work, Gerald. Is the multi-arm soldering station your own creation or a commercially available unit?
  9. druxey
    What a difference a week can make! Awesome work as usual, Glenn.
  10. druxey
    Drilling with a pin chuck is very time consuming - been there, done that! I hope you can mini-mechanize the process. Look forward to seeing your home-made drill for small spaces.
  11. druxey
    Lovely detail work on the door/hatch there.
  12. druxey
    Looking terrific, Giampiero!
  13. druxey
    I've just discovered your log: what fascinating 'inside-out' way to construct a model! I've never seen this done before and it looks like an excellent method. However, it would require a lot of very careful planning and extremely accurate craftsmanship. Obviously you possess both skills, Amalio.
  14. druxey
    If you have more time on your hands, Chuck, why not put in the rest of the 'nails'? Seriously, that looks very nice indeed.
  15. druxey
    The swivel mounts (generally) were vertical, or nearly so. The portion of hull forward above the knuckle should be vertical, so that the mount ought to automatically be positioned this way. Hope this helps.
  16. druxey
    Those bluff bows make life interesting, don't they? Looks like you've mastered it, Maurys.
  17. druxey
    Slow and steady wins, you know! Looking good, Dave.
  18. druxey
    Lovely, Toni. However, has that top piece of moulding been knocked out of line? Should be an easy fix.
  19. druxey
    Coming along a treat, Gary! That is some 'bench' you have the frame components laid out on!
  20. druxey
    Welcome back, Adam! I've just come across your log. Those are pretty impressive freehand curves but, as someone else mentioned, a flexible curve may ease your job.
  21. druxey
    Thanks for your thoughtful rebuttal of my argument, Mark. I agree that the shell carving over the quarter badge is less than sophisticated, but I was looking at the framework of the lights. Also, I absolutely agree that some of the deck furniture looked paint-chipped and knocked about: I mentioned the examples of windlass and capstan, but the quarter deck breastwork also falls into that category. My 'take' is that more than one hand worked on the model and one was far more skilled than the other(s). Still, unless another example of ship with chequerboard deck coverings turns up, I remain a little sceptical! Regardless, this is - to me - a fascinating thread.
  22. druxey
    The latest post by Doreltomin made me go back and look at the photographs again. On more careful inspection there are too many anomalies that are making me suspicious. I've no doubt that the hull is genuine and old. Look at the condition of the paintwork and surfaces. Now look at the various rails along the topsides. Nice, unchipped and with unmarked paint. Check the quality of the quarter badge. Now compare the quality of work with that of the stern ornamentation. No comparison. Also, doesn't that chequerboard look just a little too neat and clean? Now, convince me that all that weather deck work is the same vintage as the hull. (OK, some of the deck fittings such as the capstan and windlass look 'right', but....)
  23. druxey
    Looks good, Mark. What do you mean by 'the stern looks different on the drawing than it does looking into the hull'?
  24. druxey
    The sailmaking article is strikingly similar to that published in TFFM, Volume IV, or the separate article from SeaWatchBooks, apart from the use of the printer.
  25. druxey
    Thanks for the explanation, Chuck.

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