druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Good lighting is both a blessing and a curse. Shows up every little flaw! However, I can't see them in your work so far. That is a very nice stand you are building there, GDM67. -
Try starting with a small block, carved to shape and fitted to the model. You can then wrap paper around it to get the expanded view of the railing.
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Certainly an exercise in patience, Louie! For not having the best equipment to cut small section wood, those look really good.
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David: that is a nice winter project for you! I see that you lived in Halifax: do you still have contacts there? If so, they could get you all kinds of information from the Bluenose II folk there. There is also a book of plans that someone drew up on Bluenose (I can't recall the author or title, but it is a large, landscape format, soft-cover production). It gives an amazing amount of detail of both hull and rig.
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- three sisters
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Anthony: Chuck is correct here, as it is the pre-Irish Union flag which was only adopted in 1801, about century after the date of his model.
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Your model is progressing nicely, Navymast!
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Looked like a rectangular parcel. It was made of cork covered with canvas, parcelled up with light line, grab loops around the edges and apparently tarred all over. It was about big enough for a man to lie on.
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I've had a moment to research the upper finishing in French ships. It was indeed closed at the side and lined with lead sheet but, unlike the British, life-lines and floats were stored in the open top. (Jean Boudriot, The Seventy-four Gun Ship, Volume II, page 51.)
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To imitate whitewash, try titanium white (it won't oxidize like flake white over time) with a very small touch of black in it. If you use acrylic paint, you can apply thin washes and build up until you have the degree of coverage you want.
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Glenn: if you can show us an example of what you have in mind we can perhaps give more specific advice.
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I don't know about French practise, but the British had an open-topped cistern there. The 'rail' ( solid) formed the side walls of the cistern, which had a pipe down into the quarter gallery for 'running' water. The cistern was lined with lead sheet.
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1702 would be Queen Anne's standard. There are images on the Web of the correct heraldic configuration.
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As Andy says! It would fly at the bow, I believe.
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Are the English plans after modification or 'as captured'?
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Well, I hope that your humidity fluctuation problems are solved now, Ben! We await with expectancy....
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French rigging practice in the days of spritsail topsail
druxey replied to cerberusjf's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Admiral Paris' book is not always reliable. -
The critical part of setting the wing transom is that, after the upper and aft surfaces are rounded, that the outer corners are at the correct height and on spec above the building board. If incorrect, the whole stern framework will be thrown off.
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Bottom boards were removable, Siggi; to bail out water and to access the hoisting bolts.
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Your deck planking arrangement is very thoughtful. Nicely planned, Gaetan!
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Well done so far, Amy! Aren't you glad Q-tips come in large boxes? Your replacement main rail looks very well matched. I'd keep things simple (relatively speaking!) by leaving unpainted masts that way. The existing paintwork looks in fair condition, so I'd also leave the badges of age as they are, unless you want the model to look new. If you decide to paint, ask again for advice.
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