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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Looks like you are being very methodical - this is good! I'd advise you to use PVA (white) or aliphatic (yellow) wood glues. These are reversible if necessary. Epoxy or cyanoacrylic (superglues) - not so much. The missing piece at the bow is called the main rail of the head. -
Nice progress there, GDM67!
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One can clean a model safely with Q-tips and saliva (believe it or not!). You may find the original finishes under the dirt quite acceptable without adding anything. The only reliable way to prevent dust build-up or other damage is to have the model cased.
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Neatly done, Alan, but you'll do better using a much thinner pencil mark-out. If you don't, cumulative error will bite you again!
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I think what Jersey City Frank is trying to say is that statements like "I think that..." or "It is probable..." don't count as hard facts. Until there is solid, unambiguous evidence, all we have is a theory. There is nothing wrong with having a theory, but nothing is fact until it's proven. I've also come across items that have been repeated for generations until assumed as fact, when they never were! There is an amusing play, Ten Times Table, by Alan Ayckbourn. It's about a town that decides to honour a long-ago local uprising by mounting a re-enactment. The committee go though all sorts of grief and strife to make this happen. On the day of the event, it turns into a riot. Finally one of the committee members admits that the uprising never happened and the two 'martyrs' ever even existed - he just wanted to put the town on the map!
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Stepping line is a zig-zag one (like steps) and was used earlier. In the late 18th century a continuous curved line replaced it - the bearding line.
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Vitaly: That is the stepping line, where the half-frames and cant frame heels rest on the deadwood. It is a shallow ledge, the deadwood continuing upward inside the ship.
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Cumulative error - the bane of every model maker. It pays to check the overall dimensions/angles after every piece one adds.
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Ah. Real progress today. Enjoy every small victory!
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The second illiustration is interesting. I've seen the ones like the first with the sail billowing either side of what I assumed was a stay in the crease. However, it looks like there is an actual restraining band or heavy line that goes aft and around the foot of the mast in the etching. Is that what you interpret that as, Dick?
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Sweet! I missed my little 'fix' last Saturday, but figured you folks were having a holiday weekend south of the border.
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Bamboo skewer material is very variable in quality. If you can get a large diameter piece of bamboo cane you will get much better results. Split it, discard the glassy outer 'skin' and use the layer immediately under this. The innermost material is of no use either - it's too soft and fluffy.
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- dunbrody
- famine ship
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Personally, I wouldn't try printing on SilkSpan, for the reasons given above. As the material is translucent, why not print the pattern on regular paper and put Silkspan over it to trace the pattern?
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All wood surfaces oxidise with time, whether varnished or not. Of course, old varnishes will yellow or brown with exposure to light, pollutants and air. After a century or more, wood species that were different colors darken and will look almost the same.
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Ain't modern adhesives marvellous? If the parts to be separated can be put in a container and immersed, it's easier to deal with. I use a Tupperware container for this purpose. If the assembly is too large, after the paper towel is applied, the part is wrapped in Saran and rubber bands to keep the solvent where I want it. The upside is that, the more experience one has, the less often one needs to do this!
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New and need help to identify a mystery model? Read here first!
druxey replied to ccoyle's topic in New member Introductions
Thanks for telling like it unfortunately is, Chris. To add to your posting, sometimes the model is a wreck but of sentimental value. Folk have no idea how much it will cost for a professional restoration. That is their second shock. I can't count the number of times I've provided an estimate, never to hear back from the correspondent while coughing on the dust raised by their rapid departure!- 26 replies
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Coming along very nicely, if somewhat slowly. But framing is like that. However, it will look terrific when completed and faired!
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Nice progress and good photos, Bill! Am I seeing this correctly, or is it an optical illusion: is the upper part of the beakhead straight and the lower part slightly curved as seen from above?
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- sovereign of the seas
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THE 74-GUN SHIP by Jeronimo
druxey replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Thanks, Karl. Looks great. -
Scarf Joint
druxey replied to Maury S's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
That's for lengthening the boat, Maurys! Just kidding.- 1 reply
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You are making life unduly complicated for yourself, I think. When building the model (or the real boat) that stern post was left over-wide and then dubbed fair with the hull after planking.
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Nice progress, Gary.
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Well, Siggi, I wondered how you would manage the last shutter plank! That is an interesting solution. Well done.
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- barge
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