Jump to content
New Publication - Ship Modeler's Handbook - They're back in stock! Thank you for your patience. ×
BlueJacket Shipcrafters 10% off sale-April14th to 25th, all the kits we offer will be 10% off. No need to use special codes, it will be automatic when you place your order by phone, web, email, snail mail or in person. Put your tax refund to good use! ×

druxey

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    13,004

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Ain't modern adhesives marvellous? If the parts to be separated can be put in a container and immersed, it's easier to deal with. I use a Tupperware container for this purpose. If the assembly is too large, after the paper towel is applied, the part is wrapped in Saran and rubber bands to keep the solvent where I want it. The upside is that, the more experience one has, the less often one needs to do this!
  2. druxey
    Thanks for telling like it unfortunately is, Chris. To add to your posting, sometimes the model is a wreck but of sentimental value. Folk have no idea how much it will cost for a professional restoration. That is their second shock. I can't count the number of times I've provided an estimate, never to hear back from the correspondent while coughing on the dust raised by their rapid departure!
  3. druxey
    Coming along very nicely, if somewhat slowly. But framing is like that. However, it will look terrific when completed and faired!
  4. druxey
    Nice progress and good photos, Bill! Am I seeing this correctly, or is it an optical illusion: is the upper part of the beakhead straight and the lower part slightly curved as seen from above?
  5. druxey
    Thanks, Karl. Looks great.
  6. druxey
    That's for lengthening the boat, Maurys! Just kidding.
  7. druxey
    You are making life unduly complicated for yourself, I think. When building the model (or the real boat) that stern post was left over-wide and then dubbed fair with the hull after planking.
  8. druxey
    Nice progress, Gary.
  9. druxey
    Well, Siggi, I wondered how you would manage the last shutter plank! That is an interesting solution. Well done.
  10. druxey
    Thank you for this mega-progress instalment, E&T! It's interesting how, during construction, things that were not clear on drawings suddenly become 'ah-ha!' moments. I've found this very satisfying. I see you had one of these nice moments with the configuration of the lower hull planking layers at the stern. I'm certain that you are correct, as this makes perfect constructional sense in terms of strength. Well done!
  11. druxey
    Thanks for the explanation, Gerald. My local jeweller has a rolling machine to reduce precious metal strip in thickness, which is what I was thinking of. I suppose, from its rugged construction, that it could exert the kind of pressure you describe. I did understand your earlier explanation of the fabrication process for your 'bulb iron'.
  12. druxey
    I'm not familiar with sanding blades. Looks like a neat idea.
  13. druxey
    Superb work, Karl. Is that gold or bronze leaf that you've used on your cannon?
  14. druxey
    If the gangway were continuous in level with the quarter and forecastle decking, it would make sense to have the planking continuous. There would be no reason for an athwartship seam fore and aft of the gangway.
  15. druxey
    This slim publication by the National Maritime Museum in 1972, reprinted in 1976 is an invaluable primer on the building of clinker open boats. While dealing with full-size construction, this book is of value to the model maker and includes a heavy card cut-out half model of a 10' 0' workboat at ⅜" = 1' 0" scale. There is an extensive glossary of boatbuilding terms, some excellent perspective detail drawings and a clear explanatory text. The only criticism I have is that one needs to flip pages from text to illustration, but this is a small quibble. Eric McKee is an excellent author and illustrator. I thoroughly recommend this book for anyone interested in lapstrake open boat construction.
  16. druxey
    This may be a naive question, but as you have in effect made a rolling mil, could you have simply formed the bulb iron of brass or copper strip between rollers of suitable profile? You've made a beautiful double-cam action jig there, Gerald.
  17. druxey
    Use the hard bamboo layer from just inside the shiny outer layer. The inside layer is too soft and fuzzy to use.
  18. druxey
    Nice idea, Dafi. What you show certainly looks like peas! However, the source of my quote says: "NB the Sloop has now a pease Coat bottom upon her, which will last extremely well till the Spring." "till the Spring" implies a temporary rather than permanent measure, and studded nails are unlikely to be called a 'Coat'. So the mystery remains.
  19. druxey
    Unless the wood grain of the boxwood is absolutely straight, it will not draw without breaking in smaller sizes. Use split bamboo, as Mike suggests.
  20. druxey
    Thanks also to you, Dashicat, for an interesting discussion!
  21. druxey
    Very impressive miniature forging work, Giampiero! I've also had good results by flattening bent copper wire for the 'U' part of the hinge.
  22. druxey
    You wrote: It would need to keep the diameter proportional to the longer mast of 60' because the stresses from the quarterdeck partners would still be the same regardless of whether hold or lower deck stepped. ​Stresses would surely be greater if the mast were stepped on the lower deck, as the leverage exerted on it would be greater? (Proportional length of mast above and below the partners, the latter being the fulcrum.)
  23. druxey
    I can't speak for softwoods, but I've had no issues with isopropanol on Castello or other hardwoods. Heat will speed up the debonding process for sure, but alcohol alone does the trick. All you need is a little patience while it works through the joint.
  24. druxey
    Looks good. However, I've found that one can run into problems by planking from the sheer strake downward. Getting either the garboard in last, or a shutter strake at scale size, is very difficult. I recommend starting at the garboard and working upward.
  25. druxey
    We all make mistakes and makeovers, no matter how experienced. As for raised grain, you don't need water to de-bond white or yellow glue. Use 95% or 99% isopropanol. The lack of water content in it will prevent this.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...