druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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I think that the answer to the question is in the name of the mechanism: throw-out lever. It was not a throw-in one! As mentioned, something would probably break if one tried to engage a stationary paddlewheel with the engine shaft turning. -
Nice work there. I believe that the tenon was usually slightly tapered, as was the mortise.
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- dunbrody
- famine ship
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Brilliant, as usual. Your throw-out levers look nicer than the originals! Thanks for my Saturday 'fix'.
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A Lorch Micro-Mill that never was ...
druxey replied to wefalck's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I was wondering about the limited travel on the Lorch cross-slide bed. Nice solution! Sorry to read about your motor woes, but hopefully they are behind you now. Alors, on y va! -
I've had a DeWalt 778 for many years of trouble-free service. It's a variable speed one.
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I just came across this image of the battle of Algiers (I hope the link will work): https://shar.es/1JpKu0La bataille d'Alger | Sotheby's - Huile sur toile - PF1609Lot926GQen
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It's nice to see your son helping out: your model is progressing very well.
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Nice progress, Toni. The crowded appearance aboard these small ships is well shown in one photo.
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Looks like you are being very methodical - this is good! I'd advise you to use PVA (white) or aliphatic (yellow) wood glues. These are reversible if necessary. Epoxy or cyanoacrylic (superglues) - not so much. The missing piece at the bow is called the main rail of the head.
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Nice progress there, GDM67!
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One can clean a model safely with Q-tips and saliva (believe it or not!). You may find the original finishes under the dirt quite acceptable without adding anything. The only reliable way to prevent dust build-up or other damage is to have the model cased.
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Neatly done, Alan, but you'll do better using a much thinner pencil mark-out. If you don't, cumulative error will bite you again!
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I think what Jersey City Frank is trying to say is that statements like "I think that..." or "It is probable..." don't count as hard facts. Until there is solid, unambiguous evidence, all we have is a theory. There is nothing wrong with having a theory, but nothing is fact until it's proven. I've also come across items that have been repeated for generations until assumed as fact, when they never were! There is an amusing play, Ten Times Table, by Alan Ayckbourn. It's about a town that decides to honour a long-ago local uprising by mounting a re-enactment. The committee go though all sorts of grief and strife to make this happen. On the day of the event, it turns into a riot. Finally one of the committee members admits that the uprising never happened and the two 'martyrs' ever even existed - he just wanted to put the town on the map!
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Stepping line is a zig-zag one (like steps) and was used earlier. In the late 18th century a continuous curved line replaced it - the bearding line.
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Vitaly: That is the stepping line, where the half-frames and cant frame heels rest on the deadwood. It is a shallow ledge, the deadwood continuing upward inside the ship.
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Cumulative error - the bane of every model maker. It pays to check the overall dimensions/angles after every piece one adds.
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I assumed the reasons a and b, Dick. Thanks for the response.
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Ah. Real progress today. Enjoy every small victory!
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The second illiustration is interesting. I've seen the ones like the first with the sail billowing either side of what I assumed was a stay in the crease. However, it looks like there is an actual restraining band or heavy line that goes aft and around the foot of the mast in the etching. Is that what you interpret that as, Dick?
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Sweet! I missed my little 'fix' last Saturday, but figured you folks were having a holiday weekend south of the border.
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Bamboo skewer material is very variable in quality. If you can get a large diameter piece of bamboo cane you will get much better results. Split it, discard the glassy outer 'skin' and use the layer immediately under this. The innermost material is of no use either - it's too soft and fluffy.
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- dunbrody
- famine ship
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Personally, I wouldn't try printing on SilkSpan, for the reasons given above. As the material is translucent, why not print the pattern on regular paper and put Silkspan over it to trace the pattern?
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All wood surfaces oxidise with time, whether varnished or not. Of course, old varnishes will yellow or brown with exposure to light, pollutants and air. After a century or more, wood species that were different colors darken and will look almost the same.
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