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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Looked like a rectangular parcel. It was made of cork covered with canvas, parcelled up with light line, grab loops around the edges and apparently tarred all over. It was about big enough for a man to lie on.
  2. I've had a moment to research the upper finishing in French ships. It was indeed closed at the side and lined with lead sheet but, unlike the British, life-lines and floats were stored in the open top. (Jean Boudriot, The Seventy-four Gun Ship, Volume II, page 51.)
  3. To imitate whitewash, try titanium white (it won't oxidize like flake white over time) with a very small touch of black in it. If you use acrylic paint, you can apply thin washes and build up until you have the degree of coverage you want.
  4. Glenn: if you can show us an example of what you have in mind we can perhaps give more specific advice.
  5. I don't know about French practise, but the British had an open-topped cistern there. The 'rail' ( solid) formed the side walls of the cistern, which had a pipe down into the quarter gallery for 'running' water. The cistern was lined with lead sheet.
  6. 1702 would be Queen Anne's standard. There are images on the Web of the correct heraldic configuration.
  7. Well, I hope that your humidity fluctuation problems are solved now, Ben! We await with expectancy....
  8. Much better, Toni! Now, that didn't really hurt, did it?
  9. Admiral Paris' book is not always reliable.
  10. The critical part of setting the wing transom is that, after the upper and aft surfaces are rounded, that the outer corners are at the correct height and on spec above the building board. If incorrect, the whole stern framework will be thrown off.
  11. Bottom boards were removable, Siggi; to bail out water and to access the hoisting bolts.
  12. Your deck planking arrangement is very thoughtful. Nicely planned, Gaetan!
  13. Well done so far, Amy! Aren't you glad Q-tips come in large boxes? Your replacement main rail looks very well matched. I'd keep things simple (relatively speaking!) by leaving unpainted masts that way. The existing paintwork looks in fair condition, so I'd also leave the badges of age as they are, unless you want the model to look new. If you decide to paint, ask again for advice.
  14. I think that the answer to the question is in the name of the mechanism: throw-out lever. It was not a throw-in one! As mentioned, something would probably break if one tried to engage a stationary paddlewheel with the engine shaft turning.
  15. Nice work there. I believe that the tenon was usually slightly tapered, as was the mortise.
  16. Brilliant, as usual. Your throw-out levers look nicer than the originals! Thanks for my Saturday 'fix'.
  17. A little bird tells me that the book will also explain lofting procedures....
  18. I was wondering about the limited travel on the Lorch cross-slide bed. Nice solution! Sorry to read about your motor woes, but hopefully they are behind you now. Alors, on y va!
  19. I've had a DeWalt 778 for many years of trouble-free service. It's a variable speed one.
  20. I just came across this image of the battle of Algiers (I hope the link will work): https://shar.es/1JpKu0La bataille d'Alger | Sotheby's - Huile sur toile - PF1609Lot926GQen
  21. It's nice to see your son helping out: your model is progressing very well.
  22. Nice progress, Toni. The crowded appearance aboard these small ships is well shown in one photo.
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