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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Thanks for all your ideas and opinions on displaying the sweeps. I really appreciate your varied thoughts on this. At the moment, I'm tending towards mounting the sweeps in racks on the baseboard, six each side. However, the jury is still out... and I've a bundle of sweeps yet to complete!
  2. druxey
    Thanks yet again, everyone. Now for the repetitive part; twelve sweeps. These were 19 ' 0" long. The blanks have been cut and roughed out using a mill. The first - my prototype - has been shaped. There will still be details to add such as the reinforcing strap at the end of the blade and the leather at the thole. These sweeps would be relatively simple to make, but for the curved blade.
  3. druxey
    Actually, Mike, it was done this way so that if the ship touched ground, the false keel would pull off easily and spare the actual keel. It was a deliberate break-away system.
  4. druxey
    Interesting question, Tom. The riders (not risers!) are roughly as you have drawn, where the scarphs are staggered relative to the floor/futtock joints. They are, however, bolted over the ceiling planking, which seems counter-intuitive. The internal planking contributes to longitudinal strength and, although it might be a source of rot behind the rider, would considerably weaken the structure if interrupted as you've sketched on the left. Does that answer your question? By the way, there was never more than about 3" of air space between frames - certainly not 16". To see contemporary plans of framing, go to the Royal Museums Greenwich Web site, go to 'Collections' and search 'Framing plans'. There you'll see how this was done. For scantlings (dimensions) of all the components in a ship, you should get a copy of Allan Yedlinsky's book from SeaWatchBooks.
  5. druxey
    A hand-grip should be about 1½" to 2" in diameter. Is that what those are, DIck? I'm really enjoying seeing this build as it is a different subject.
  6. druxey
    Thanks again for looking in and all the positive comments. Mahuna: I try to avoid sanding carved work whenever possible. If a smooth surface is required, I scrape it. The scrolls are completed and the brackets installed and gilded. All that are left now are two ensigns and twelve sweeps! I'm still undecided as to how to display the latter. I could bundle them and lay them the thwarts, display them 'tossed' (upright) or in their tholes spread out on both sides. Decisions, decisions....
  7. druxey
    Just catching up with your progress, Johann. Very delightful and neat!
  8. druxey
    Seeing your reference, Gaetan, have you tried melting the end of the brass rod to form the 'bouton'? I've found that by holding the rod or wire vertically (not with my fingers!) and holding the torch at about 45 degrees, the tip of the metal will melt and form a round ball. You could then flatten it if you want.
  9. druxey
    Steven: the ornamental work and stern were simply symbols of affluence and power. Practically, they were of no use whatsoever, other than providing windage! Some further progress on the ornamental brackets. They are glued to a scrap base and the first sides carved. They will then be detached, turned over, and the other sides completed. As you can see, they are rather small and fiddly things to produce.
  10. druxey
    Glad to read you are back at the model and hopefully not too much worse for wear, Frank. Hopefully frame alignment won't be a big issue for you. She's looking good.
  11. druxey
    You might wish to add Gerald Wingrove to that list, Michael!
  12. druxey
    Terrific detail, Gaetan!
  13. druxey
    Steven: That is a rather naive engraving of the procession, of which many different images were published at the time. The date of this was January 8. 1806. It must have been a cold, miserable day for this. The canopied, ostrich-plumed barge, (lower centre) is the one carrying Nelson's coffin. A more sophisticated and perhaps accurate version of this scene at Greenwich as the cortege departs is also in the RMG Collection (PAH 7324)
  14. druxey
    Aie! So many small pointed ends, so easy to break off. That is amazing, Bill.
  15. druxey
    Very impressive, Kees!
  16. druxey
    Looking very nice, Mike!
  17. druxey
    Persistence pays off! Well done, Mark.
  18. druxey
    On the other hand, perhaps a re-do of the piece if the gap is that large?
  19. druxey
    If you really need strength, silver solder the joint.
  20. druxey
    I totally understand, Steven. I worked without power tools and on a shoestring for many years. A thin coat of wax shouldn't narrow your grooves. Other solutions are a coat or two of gloss varnish. I wouldn't recommend anything that is water-soluble like white glue (sorry, Mark!). Personally, I use paste wax over gesso. And I don't think soap is quite 'it' either - water soluble.
  21. druxey
    Ah, yes. Th aggro of printers and scaling! My empathy on that, Maury.
  22. druxey
    Gorilla glue is ghastly stuff! I had a friend who tried to fix a piece of furniture only to have it end up glued to his carpet.... Use white PVA or yellow aliphatic glues. Much better choices.
  23. druxey
    Thank you all, yet again. Today's work was on the Hospital badge that is mounted high on the boat's stern over the upper transom. The pictures are self-explanatory. At this scale the paintwork is more impressionistic than accurate! I'll be refining the shell on the fore side of the badge more.
  24. druxey
    Well, some progress to report. The ensign staffs are done. They were made and tapered using the usual square to octagon to round method. The trucks plus a few inches below them are painted gold. I scored around each staff to act as a stop for the paint: it was too small to mask conventionally. For those wondering why the pace has slackened a bit, I've another project to announce shortly.
  25. druxey
    Ah, I misunderstood. Yes, the framing will need lateral stability when you come to fair. Even wedges of dense styrofoam should do the trick, I would think.

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