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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Ed: I'm curious as to why you used scale width planks if you are going to sheath the lower hull. Beautiful job as usual, though.
  2. Masking tape might have prevented scratching up the paint on the wale. Next time?
  3. This sort of thing happens to most, if not all, of us. However, you'll be glad you corrected things now.
  4. That's a good idea, Captain Al. I find that line usually has a lot of 'spring' in it unless dampened. I prefer to build coils off the model and glue them over the short end of the line to disguise the joint. The most recent way I've built coils is to stick a piece of low-tack tape, sticky side up, on my work bench, coil the line on it and use either dilute white glue or acrylic matt medium to 'set' the line. When it is completely dry, I prise it off the tape with a palette knife.
  5. I notice you've left gaps in the planking for the rails. You may find bending them around the bow difficult. Usually the rails are applied over the planking: much easier to bend. Your model looks terrific so far.
  6. If there is natural light into this area, that would influence how I might lay out the space.
  7. Chris: it's very similar to Endeavour. However, I'm sure every shipyard had slightly different methods of planking. I'm also sure that no more stealers or drop planks were arranged than were absolutely necessary, saving much work.
  8. You see this technique on 18th century museum models such as seen in Annapolis or (formerly) Greenwich, Mark.
  9. Here is a photo of that bluff bow completely planked. Two hooked strakes under the main wale was all that was needed!
  10. The example you cite, Captain Jerry, is a rather excessive one. It is the result of allowing the garboard strake run too high up the stem, forcing the other strakes to be too crowded into the stem. This could easily have been avoided by an experienced shipwright. Take a look at the example in 'A primer on planking' by David Antscherl pinned on this site. The bow is just as bluff as the one in your photo, but compare the run of planking in both examples.
  11. I agree: Taking time to plan and draw the planking layout and shift of butts is never a waste of time! It will save grief later on.
  12. If that is where those timberheads are located, the way you have done it is very convincing. Well done!
  13. An additional hint: once I have a strake of planking laid, I run a sanding stick along the edge of it to ensure it is even and lines up with my mark-out before proceeding with the next strake.
  14. You forgot, Dan? Forgot???? And after all your work to make the lantern.... That's funny. Glad it all worked out for you, though.
  15. Coming along nicely, Mark. Try to resist doing too much sanding until planking is complete. What do you mean by '3" off'? Do you mean creep or cumulative error compared to your lining off of the planking runs? You can easily correct this by either making remaining strakes fractionally wider or narrower to compensate. Just don't let this become a big issue when it comes down to the last strake!
  16. All the best with the move, Ben. We will await your return with bated breath....
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