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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Sounds like a very effective method, Gerald.
  2. druxey
    Lovely work in progress there, Alberto. Inspirational.
  3. druxey
    Thank you, one and all. The frames butt to the keelson in the model, Joel. It might, in hindsight, have been easier to notch the keelson to locate the floor ends. I'll include a rule in the next batch of photos, Chuck.
  4. druxey
    Started bending in the frames today. They are spaced at 18" intervals and, as previously mentioned, are ¾" square. In the real boat, there were floors and futtocks united by a side overlap. However, as this will be completely invisible in the finished boat, I will omit this detail. As I have other work on hand, the next update will be a few days away.
  5. druxey
    Love the nibbing into the king plank, Michael. And I, too, think you are your own severest critic.
  6. druxey
    For some reason I missed seeing this thread until this morning. Fascinating research and interpretation, Woodrat! You are doing a terrific job in these rather poorly charted waters.
  7. druxey
    Next is to cut stock a scale ¾" square. This is next to impossible without a zero-clearance table and a slitting saw blade. So I made an insert of aluminum sheet and raised the saw blade through this, as shown (upper left). Note that, on this saw, I have an Accuriser II fence. I attached a secondary scale measuring in inches at 1/48 scale. This avoids having to translate from thousandths of an inch (actual) to scale inches. I cut several sheets of 1/64" Castello stock and rubber cemented them to a sacrificial piece of softwood. In this case it was simply a paint stir-stick (upper right). This was then run through the saw and the pieces separated and cleaned up, giving the 1/64" square section required for the frames (below).
  8. druxey
    Thanks, Michael. I use white PVA, slightly thinned, applied with a small watercolour brush. The outside is washed down with a damp brush immediately, and the inside is cleaned up afterwards with a dental elevator (looks like a bent mini-chisel). If there is a stubborn bit of glue, a drop of water on a brush does the trick. Should a little of the joint give way, I run more dilute glue into the crack and clamp it shut with one or more of those mini-clips. This rarely happens, as the bevelled land creates a tight joint.
  9. druxey
    Yes, more or less. There is a photo of this area of Victory that show these T-straps in place. It is shown in Longridge's Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, Plate 19, opposite page 100. I can't post this photo as it may infringe copyright. Hopefully you have access to a copy if you don't already own one. (You should!)
  10. druxey
    Well, good health to you both, and to all readers of this log!
  11. druxey
    Thanks again, everyone, for looking in and your comments. David B: I'm not sure what your question means. Which 'other half' are you referring to?
  12. druxey
    Finally the shell has been completed. It is quite delicate right now, as the last half strake is only edge-glued to the strake below. However, the pink stern is quite strong, even at this stage. Next will be installing the keelson, followed by bending in the frames. The plug, as you can see, has been beaten up quite a bit in the process of planking.
  13. druxey
    Superbly done, Ed!
  14. druxey
    Thanks again for the likes and comments, everyone. And yes, Ed, I too am mortal! The sequence of construction needs to be carefully considered. Before adding the keelson (making replacement on the plug impossible) a last half-strake needed to be cut and fitted. This will carry all the ornamental scrollwork aft. It has a sinuous S-curve in plan, and required the entire elastic band brigade to damp-shape it into position.
  15. druxey
    Those T-straps actually ran across the wing transom and up the forward face of the counter timbers. Your photo (post 42) has it placed upside-down. The curve fits on the lower counter area.
  16. druxey
    The sheer strake proved challenging in more ways than I had anticipated. First, this strake tapers to a point at the bow. Finessing this was not easy. Secondly, I had a minor mishap. While working with the hull off the plug, my sleeve caught the unsupported aft end of the strake and it snapped off. So, a re-do. I flattened and re-assembled the broken plank to show its peculiar shape. Wes mentioned a U.S. quarter, so I've included one for scale. I will not remove the shell from the plug again until both sides of the aft ends are complete and united with the outer transom!
  17. druxey
    Your instinct to mortise the counter timbers to the wing transom is correct: the original ships had shallow scores to locate these timbers. The T-straps are usually one-piece affairs, though.
  18. druxey
    Well, a challenge it has certainly been. The aftermost plank of the sheer strake is unlike any plank I've hung before. The pictures describe this plank better far than I can write about it. There was a lot of shaping required to get this plank to lay down properly. One can now see the beautiful sweep of the sheer properly. Now all I have to do is repeat this on the other side!
  19. druxey
    Looking beautiful but a little messy right now! I can't wait to see the deck once it's completed and scraped down.
  20. druxey
    Thanks again for your interest and comments, folks. I realized that the second strake of planking (the sheer strake) at the mini-transom does not stop there, but sweeps aft to a secondary transom (I don't know what else to call it). So I had to trim back the end of the plug by a scale 1½" and rubber-cement this second transom to it. Eventually it will be hidden under an ornamental carved badge. The plank here will have an interesting dog-leg shape and need some fancy bending to fit properly. That's my next challenge! GHB rev lines.pdf
  21. druxey
    Well done on arriving at the first port of call, Alan. We await with anticipation....
  22. druxey
    I agree with Clare - stay away from lead-bearing pewter. I pour pewter in Micro-Mark's 1:1 RTV moulds with no problem.
  23. druxey
    The red paint on the cutaway makes it clear that it is, in fact, a cutaway. I think your idea of doing this a good one, Dan.
  24. druxey
    Thank you all for your kind comments, gentlemen. The compliments should really go to the original designers of these craft.
  25. druxey
    I wonder if the builders of the original flywheels had the same issues with the castings. You certainly had a challenge keeping 16 pieces under control! However, the end result looks terrific. I hope the other three wheels are less hassle for you.

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