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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Flush rivet heads? In any case, hardly visible at scale size, in my opinion.
  2. druxey
    Unfortunately, 'bad ideas' are still around and always will be. Sure, CA is a great idea for those in a rush and want a quick fix, but they are generally not interested in the longevity of their work. If you are spending months or years on a model anyway, spend just a little more time and the model will, hopefully, last for a century or more without needing extensive repair work.
  3. druxey
    Have you read the 'pinned' Primer on Planking here? Usually narrow tick strips are used to measure girth at various points along the hull (in your case along the bulkhead edges). Be aware that after mathematically dividing the hull surface into bands, you will still need to finesse the resulting curves until everything looks smooth from all angles. Then you can sub-divide each band into the individual strakes.
  4. druxey
    Oh, excellent! Much more filling than an amuse-bouche! Bon appetite, monsieur.
  5. druxey
    Certainly there are a number of tricks to learn when centering anything in an independent 4-jaw chuck!
  6. druxey
    Clever work on mounting and stabilizing the boats, Dan.
  7. druxey
    Surely you are not going to put the model in the garbage, Gaetan! If so, let me know which night it will be put out....
  8. druxey
    The Georgian first rate model's deck looks distinctly 20th century in style with its tree nailing and lack of signs of age. As Mark mentioned, usually that style of model had scored sheet decking. Also, decks below the weather deck on other Georgian 'takeapart' models I've seen are often unplanked. I'm skeptical of that one! However, the 1770's cutter deck certainly looks authentic and the nibbed planking cannot be discounted. The question with the latter model is whether the planking is also tapered - it's hard to tell from Chuck's photo.
  9. druxey
    Your funnel grille is very convincing, Dan, but wouldn't photo etching have been an easier route to have taken here?
  10. druxey
    Nice to see the deck planking done as it actually was in those days! No excuses any more, folks....
  11. druxey
    Best of wishes for tomorrow, Jonny. And, as far as puppies and training them go, I've been there, done that! Not much to see in the way of models at the NMM now (now renamed Royal Museums Greenwich), but the view from Maze Hill and the Observatory is still well worth the visit. The pub on Park Vista east of the Museum, The Plume of Feathers, is a good spot too!
  12. druxey
    Animated figures aboard really make a difference! Good stuff, Magnus.
  13. druxey
    Superb metalwork, Giorgio!
  14. druxey
    Great progress: that looks lovely!
  15. druxey
    'Exciting' might be one word for it, John! Never make a thing simple if you can make it complicated.... Woof, indeed.
  16. druxey
    Kudos to you for taking the time and effort to make the corrections, Mike. I bet that you have no regrets about the do-over! Looks really nicely done now.
  17. druxey
    I think Dan meant an independent jawed chuck, instead of self-centering.
  18. druxey
    A regular merchant ship would not have been decorated in any way. The underwater body may have been coated with 'white stuff' (a cream color), 'brown stuff' or 'black stuff'.
  19. druxey
    Joel is correct: tapered planking on decks was common until powered circular saw mills came in in the early 1800's.
  20. druxey
    Sigh. Make haste more slowly....
  21. druxey
    No so much nibbed, more like a drop plank. Certainly an interesting feature.
  22. druxey
    Might I suggest masking tape to prevent scuffing next time? No matter how careful one is, it always happens otherwise!
  23. druxey
    Glad to see you re-appear here, Ben. I hope that the new workshop will be worthy of your model!
  24. druxey
    Interesting question. I imagine that the side planking would overlap the bottom plank at the chine, similar to a ply hull. This means planking the bottom first, then the sides.
  25. druxey
    Box fan? Not a good idea. The motor can produce sparks, igniting solvent fumes. Fans designed for fume extraction have special non-sparking motors. Try not to use volatile flammable solvents if you can possibly avoid them!

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