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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. So sorry to read that, Ron. I hope all turns out better than expected. Best wishes until your return.
  2. Now for something a little different: the Greenwich Hospital ceremonial barge of 1832. There is a draught in the RMG, formerly NMM, collection of this lovely sleek barge that makes an attractive subject. (Image allowable use by RMG.) Normally such small craft are modelled at a larger scale, but as I've been building at 1:48 scale for decades, why stop now? This is a part-time 'fun' project between other professional work, so this log may be rather sporadic. The first task was to develop a workable set of lines from the rather sparse draught. There were relatively few body sections (somewhat fanciful, as it turned out!) and no waterlines. One item that tripped me up for a while was what appeared to be the line of a 'knuckle' on the half breadth. While it more or less fitted the fore body, I could not get this to reconcile aft. Eventually I saw two very faint lines on the body plan: it was, in fact, a proof diagonal. Duh! Once I'd figured that out, everything fell into place and a fair hull form resulted. The clinker planked hull will be built on a plug, so basswood was prepared to exact thickness for the two half-hulls, less the thickness of the keel, stem and stern posts. One interesting complication is the pink-style extension of the stern (see sketch). Next up: cutting out the various lifts and assembling them.
  3. Hegner (Swiss, I believe) are the Rolls-Royce of scroll saws, and commensurately expensive. Frolick is a fortunate fellow to own one. Almost as good, but much less expensive, is the DeWalt 778. I've used this saw for 15 years. It works beautifully and vibration-free.
  4. Interesting solution to your dilemma, Ed. Seems like a very reasonable one, too!
  5. Ed, I once successfully sanded a wale after masking off the planking above and below with tape for safety. Hopefully any polymerized oil has not penetrated too far into a dense, close-grained hardwood.
  6. My smile for the morning, Bob. Very nice progress.
  7. Good one! Thanks for posting this.
  8. Nice to pick the model up again after such a lapse in time. She's looking good. I smiled when I read 'Cookham'. I spent time in the area many years ago and remember visiting Stanley Spencer's museum and Cookham Church. Lovely place.
  9. Further to yesterday's post, here is a photo of a baseboard that was veneered and banded using Titebond. The other advantage is that you can spot-tack the pieces in place: they don't 'grab' like contact cement. A little heat will reverse the bond so that you can reposition a piece if you need to.
  10. Nice clean looking model, Dave. It's nice that you have mentors on hand.
  11. It's nice not to have to fight and wrestle planks, isn't it?
  12. Titebond is good if used the right way! Coat both the veneer and the substrate with glue. Allow to dry. Then iron the veneer to the substrate. (Careful not to have the iron too hot. A layer of paper will act as a bit of insurance.) Works a treat, and no contact cement fumes or strings! You could try ironing your wavy veneer down, Maury. Rubber cement is not permanent, BTW/
  13. Nice detail, Toni! It's amazing the number of bolts of various sorts that went into a vessel this size.
  14. If one needs to paint, sanding lightly first before any solvent use would be good. Too much solvent may affect the glue in the model.
  15. Ingenious operations! Like Crackers, some of this made my head spin, but I recognize your fluency in the program.
  16. Part of your issue may be the thickness of the material you are using. Some modelmakers get better results using SilkSpan (model aircraft supplies).
  17. Wayne: part of my issue is that Steel does not, in his glossary, define either 'stop' or 'lining' (other than 'lining out' - a completely different subject!). Thanks for the Fincham extract, as I do not have that volume. So, if I understand rightly, Fincham calls the inner layer of the port lid the lining, the pieces around the port opening the back stop or port stop. Is this definitive?
  18. I haven't experimented with off-model edge-bending, Nigel. I've seen Chuck's results and they do look very good. I wonder if there will be a tendency for them to 'spring' later on, after a year or two? Similarly, how easy would it be to edge-bend a complex 'S' shaped wale plank accurately, such as shown here?
  19. With all due respect, Nigel, while one can edge-bend a plank to a degree, the ideal is as Joel states; "The plank should set onto the hull with no stress, totally relaxed". It imparts a good deal of stress to edge set a plank more than a few degrees. Heat and moisture can help, for sure, but I wouldn't want to attempt edge-setting planks around a bluff bow. I tried that on an early model of mine and, after a few days, the result looked like clinker planking, except it was supposed to be carvel!
  20. I believe that 'linings' refers to the inner layer of plank on the port lids. These need to fit the port lid neatly into the stops, which are the pieces that form the rebate around the port on the lower sill and sides.
  21. I've generally not had problems with Fiebings, except on one lot of wood where the dye uptake was blotchy and I had to paint.
  22. Coming into this discussion a bit late, but the rise in deckhead aft for the cabin overhead was not uncommon in smaller vessels. The step-up in Ballahoo/Haddock is a bit more unusual, but solves the same problem of restricted clearance. I note a gun port in line with this raised deck, so would not be workable. Speaking of gun ports, their sides appear to be parallel to the sheer rather than the keel - most unusual. George, were you aware of the nice section with scantlings for Haddock (ZAZ 6118) in the RMG collection?
  23. Bee-utiful, Glenn! I'm getting addicted to your weekly progress postings. Might be fun to show the kludged spare cam frame....
  24. Another possible heat sink is to use a chunk of apple or potato (depending on your taste!).
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