druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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You would be amazed at the Unimat lathes and parts that appear on eBay. You could replace almost anything you need from that source.
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I've used mine since 1970 and it's still a good workhorse.
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Gunpowder Kegs
druxey replied to DocBlake's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
Barehook is correct: the hoops were not of iron, but copper or of withy (wood). -
Enough of the anecdotes! It's very simple, really: 1) The tool should be properly sharpened (as already mentioned). 2) Aways cut away from yourself. 3) In order to do this, the piece should be clamped, not held! 4) Don't work when you are tired. The only times I've damaged myself were when I failed to observe any of the above.
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Prussian blue, mixed with yellow, gives very cold, acid greens. Lead white often turns grey as it oxidizes in the atmosphere. Lead oxide (I forget which one; Pb2O3 or PbO2) is black. Perhaps a chemist can clarify this for us.
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I see there's another devil's advocate besides me here! I was wondering the same thing as Michael....
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Looking for help building the triple sisters
druxey replied to HKC's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Those photos make everything clear now! Thanks, Tadusz. -
Beautifully described and demonstrated, Remco. Thank you!
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90% hidden? Yes, but you - and we - know that it's there! Lovely forelocked bolt and square nuts on that intake.
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Looking for help building the triple sisters
druxey replied to HKC's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The term 'sister block' is wrong here: what is illustrated is a triple-sheaved ramshead block. -
Making Moldings
druxey replied to mrmdpc's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
The metal edge is sharp enough without further treatment, John. Just draw it along at a slight angle. -
Yes - I'd buy that version now! Reading old drafting conventions can be tricky.
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Very nice and neat work there, Mike. Well done!
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Had you thought of modifying Preiser 1:144 figures to resemble the 1:87 ones? Your model is looking lovely and progressing fast, Nils!
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There is little available on this subject, but it is more than likely that hardware would be similar to that seen on buildings of the period, of which some survive.
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Nice explanation of dealing with complex pieces one step at a time!
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It appears that the spaces between frame pairs at each station line are the narrower ones. For model work even spacing is OK, but if you want to be super-detailed, follow the DOF plan.
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Whew! I'd hate to be wrong - again!
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If there are chocked joints just above the port sills, that would be most unusual. P. S. I just looked at the disposition of framing for Elephant: those top timbers are adjacent to, not above the ports. I misread your frame drawing. My apology! However, I read these on the DOF as scarfed, not chocked, joints. They are denoted by two lines across the frame rather than the single line seen at the chocked joints. Often there is an 'X' added to distinguish these further.
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