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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. The inner planking must end up with the deck clamps at the correct height for the weather deck, JK. Hopefully that will be the case!
  2. I'm sure about a brig, but ship-rigged vessels of that time period had 'permanent' boomkins.
  3. I agree with your opinion of this book, Allan. Did you know there is a Lenox Project to raise funds for building a replica of her on the site where the original was built? See: www.buildthelenox.org Richard Endsor is involved in this, naturally!
  4. Glad to read it didn't wrinkle, Toni. However, you will need to have sliding 'finesse' when placing frieze pieces, especially on curved surfaces such as the lower transom. It is virtually impossible to lay it down without adjustment.
  5. Can you either post or give the url of the King drawing that is larger than that reproduced here? It's hard to make out any detail.
  6. Chain was certainly becoming more fashionable and common during there industrial revolution, so its use here would not be particularly remarkable. As for the location of the 'barbie'; it's quite possible that, after mooring, the windlass drum was dismounted. One assumes that the ship was anchored for a long period of time here.
  7. Thanks for the url, Wayne. That is a great image. I imagine that cooking on deck was done for two reasons: one, limited below deck space and two, the climate.I imagine that is evidence of the first down under barbie!
  8. The pulley and line system seems authentic, as can be seen from this woodcut, c1500.
  9. Rather than moistening the paper, it needs to be well soaked first. When it begins to dry on a flat surface (the wet shiny surface goes suede-like) then tape it down. You shouldn't have difficulty after that. You will need to treat the paper this way, as there is also moisture in the white glue you will use to attach the finished friezes later. Your first attempts at painting look pretty good!
  10. Beautiful work, Bruce. Yup, cat hair will get everywhere and on everything.... Good to see you back.
  11. Mark; your method is fine. Michael Mott (Skipjack thread) suggests a centre bit to start the hole on a round surface. The mass of the bit prevents deflection.
  12. Nice beginning. It reminds me of my first serious build, many, many years ago. I used the same method as Longridge and yourself for a 64. MInd those delicate toptimbers! Look forward to progress reports.
  13. Almost without exception (in English built ships) the frames are always at right angles to the keel. They are completely independent of the waterline. In some ships the keel is parallel to the waterline, so this is not apparent. In others, such as this cutter, the ship is designed with 'drag'; that is to say, the stern is much deeper in the water than the bow.
  14. Lead-free pewter has very little shrinkage. I assume that it is the bismuth content that provides this characteristic.
  15. That is an interesting phenomenon, Mark and Ed. I've had a number of those 'ah-ha' moments over the years as what seemed to be a particular construction oddity suddenly makes perfect sense. Satisfying feeling, isn't it?
  16. Very nice work on the lathe, Mark. I think I'll use a centre bit the next time I try to drill an off-axis hole. With its rigidity, this make a lot of sense.
  17. Can you run some wireframe lines over the tuck and buttocks? That should show you where the last slight bumps need smoothing. (I was looking at your lower transom shaping pdfs.) It's getting pretty close now.
  18. Glad to see you and Captain Crozier back in the shipyard, E&T! Looking forward to following your progress in 2015. Best wishes.
  19. Much closer! if you run some 'planking' lines across, you'll quickly see if there is a sharp bend anywhere across the surface.
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