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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. The stanchions to this rail are bolted to the deck beam beneath: making it more than strong enough to cope. Belaying pins on that rail would only be introduced around 1800ish or later. Usually there were single sheaves in the stanchions below the lower rail, just above the deck.
  2. Another factor would be the cost of two versus four boilers. I'm certain that economics also come into the equation!
  3. I like it, I like it! Those French hull forms are so attractive.
  4. Speaking of comparisons, do we have any evidence of the average speed of Heroine compared to other early steamboats? Could one extrapolate the possible number of boilers relative to the size of engine and of other known boats? Or is total boiler volume completely independent of the engine's output capacity?
  5. Very pretty! Well done. Is a full hull model up next?
  6. Standard, indeed. Maybe omitted not to scare off less experienced builders? They are fiddly things.
  7. I​ thought the saying was "Measure twice, cut once; then blame the tape measure."
  8. Sorry: you are correct, Siggi: the photo of that model that I was looking at does not show that feature. There is a low breast rail! Entschuldigung!
  9. The contemporary NMM (RMG) model of Thunderer/Hercules, SLR 0310, has one central ladder to the poop deck, and no breast railing.
  10. Condolences. John. How frustrating.
  11. Steel wool can cause problems with finish as well. Either use bronze wool or run a magnet over everything after using steel. You'll be surprised at how many particles will be picked up!
  12. Please stay in good health now. Nice to know that you are back, Robert.
  13. I imagine only one access ladder was needed until there was armament mounted on the poop deck.
  14. Thanks for the response, Pete. I assume that the alcohol you use has some water content?
  15. The method you need is to taper the square stick first. Then cut the octagonal and round sections to an octagon by the 7-10-7 proportion across each flat. Finally round off the octagon where the stick is to be round and voila! A perfect mast or spar. One book that illustrated this process is in The Fully Framed Model, Volume IV.
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