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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Beautiful mouse for your stay!
  2. I'd like to add my applause to Mitch, Kurt, Mary, Toni, Phil, Chuck and everyone else involved behind the scenes for an outstanding Conference!
  3. With all due respect, Rob, the beautifully drawn isometric drawings of bow and stern you posted appear to be of another vessel.
  4. Some excellent advice there from Mark and Richard.
  5. Thank you, translators! Viele danken!
  6. That metalwork was really labour-intensive! Lovely result, even if the pawl rim detail is mostly hidden. Your (b)log is very nicely presented as well, E&T. Good stuff!
  7. Going into the era of composite ships, there was often a mix of old and (then) new technology. For instance, Cutty Sark has iron frames, wooden hull and riveted iron bulwarks. So is it not possible, at the time of the photographs in question, that iron bulwarks had replaced original wooden ones?
  8. The brass I use has to be more than 60 years old and was my father's stock. Perhaps the percentage composition of it has changed since then.
  9. They are only 'mandatory' if you actually need them! For instance, if you build kits with laser or CNC cut parts, you won't need a scroll saw. Get a scroll saw only if you have a lot of curved parts you need cut out yourself.
  10. Jaager: the use of pH-neutral PVA and natural fibre is the best possible solution. Good suggestion!
  11. Congrats on installing the shutter plank: time to wet your whistle!
  12. This topic comes up time and time again. Apart from cleaning the brass well, the blackening agent need to be diluted with water about 8:1. It works more slowly, but the black will not come off as you are experiencing.
  13. Your experience with brass chips makes me wonder if the type of brass you are using is 'free-machining brass' or another type? I've found that, at the right feed rate and speed, the brass comes off in long curls. Those embryo guns look very nice.
  14. Glad you solved your problem, Jim! Now, enjoy your machine.
  15. The blocks illustrated appear to be internal iron-stropped ones.
  16. Don's advice is very sage.
  17. Only add tools as you find you need them, or you'll end up spending money on items that gather dust. Certainly surgical (Swann Morton) scalpel blades are far superior to X-Acto ones, in my opinion.
  18. Well, you've eliminated one possible cause, Jim. Now it is the turn of looking at the gibs on the ways. Antony's advice is good to follow.
  19. What kind of model are you building? If you can supply more details, perhaps we can provide more helpful answers.
  20. As Toni has said, the 'generic' set of plans and CD from Admiralty Models has all the information for building a properly framed 'Swan' class hull. If you wish to build a complete model of a specific ship, you will need additional plans. These are copies of the original draughts, often showing complete details of carved works, that are held by Royal Museums Greenwich, formerly called the National Maritime Museum. The plans you will need are Sheer and profile Forecastle, quarter deck and upper deck If fully detailing below: Lower deck and platforms (Optional is the Disposition of frame plan)
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