druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Question on how to curve metal figures?
druxey replied to tbrix's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
In order to answer the question properly, one would need to know of what metal these are made. Is the metal soft enough to bend under pressure without heat? -
Ship Model Restoration
druxey replied to Old Coasty's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
It's better to ask questions than mess up, so ask away! I agree with Frankie that using aggressive solvents is to be avoided if possible. Suspect that Salamander Restorative is some varnish softening/dissolving formulation from on-line comments. -
Ship Model Restoration
druxey replied to Old Coasty's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
The most reliable way of removing dust accumulations is using Q-tips (and lots of them!) plus saliva. Seriously. This is what professionals use. Moisten the cotton in your mouth and gently swab a small area. Try to roll the swab rather than scrub with it. Repeat as necessary until you are down to wood or paint. (Don't put the same end of the swab back in your mouth!) Needless to say, this will take some time to do. -
Maybe you weren't pedalliing fast enough, Mark....
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I've no idea if resin will affect an RTV mould if you want to subsequently use it for metal. I use Micro Mark's lead-free pewter, MP 575F. No problem with propane, which I do in my home workshop. I've no idea to what temperature butane will heat. The propane torch I use is a Canadian Tire one that has non-refillable cylinders. I'm sure that the equivalent item is available in the U.S.
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HMS Alert 1777 by Jaekon Lee - 1/64
druxey replied to Jaekon Lee's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Very nice planking job there! Well done, Lee. -
That 'standard' at the bow is called an 'ear', I believe!
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Three teeth in the work at a time is a good rule of thumb. I suspect you are using too fine a blade and/or trying to feed too rapidly.
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Excuse the question, but why is a propane torch not an option for you? I've found this, with a cast iron ladle, the most convenient way of melting and pouring pewter. Lovely work, Mark.
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Is there a better #11 blade handle
druxey replied to roach101761's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I agree with Gaetan: there is no comparison with surgical blades to Exacto ones. Of course, they are not intended for heavy cutting. (A Languinole, Gaetan? A very lovely tool for large whittling or carving and, as you say, a beautiful blade!) -
That is such a shame: your work looks lovely otherwise. The glue appears to have wicked into the wood, so I doubt if there is any remedy for the problem other than perhaps trying acetone. This is wicked stuff and should only be used in a well ventilated space, with organic solvent respiratory protection and absolutely no spark or flame in the vicinity. Myself, I would never use CA glue anywhere at all on a quality model. White and yellow glue is good for wood and epoxy for wood/metal joints.
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I assume you cut the wrong side of the lower stem scarph away, Alan? I seem to recall having done that once myself, years ago! I feel your pain.
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Seagoing gun carriages did not have iron 'tires' on the trucks: this would have worn the decking rapidly. Only land-based fort guns had iron bands.
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My top is supported on a thin dowel stem at centre height attached to a light base. This slides along the workbench nicely. The two (transverse) projecting arms of the base prevent the top from turning.
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I suppose with limited light, slow exposure plates and before flash photography, it would have been impossible to take a good photo of the interior of a ship.
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Chère M. Delacroix, Congratulations on the publication of your new monograph. The harbour supply vessel is a lovely and unusual subject. As usual, your drawings are first rate. Hopefully an English language edition will follow for those unfamiliar with French. Avec meilleurs souhaits, Druxey
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Thanks, Joel. The staff at the bow was set through an eyebolt driven on the aft side of the hair bracket. This was usual practice. The hull was not coppered before launching. This way any leaks could be located and caulked before coppering in the dry dock.
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It's a beakhead bulkhead, Jack. Nice work so far!
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Can you cite your source, Joel? It would be appreciated!
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