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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Your experience with brass chips makes me wonder if the type of brass you are using is 'free-machining brass' or another type? I've found that, at the right feed rate and speed, the brass comes off in long curls. Those embryo guns look very nice.
  2. druxey
    Glad you solved your problem, Jim! Now, enjoy your machine.
  3. druxey
    The blocks illustrated appear to be internal iron-stropped ones.
  4. druxey
    Don's advice is very sage.
  5. druxey
    Only add tools as you find you need them, or you'll end up spending money on items that gather dust. Certainly surgical (Swann Morton) scalpel blades are far superior to X-Acto ones, in my opinion.
  6. druxey
    Well, you've eliminated one possible cause, Jim. Now it is the turn of looking at the gibs on the ways. Antony's advice is good to follow.
  7. druxey
    Lovely attention to detail, Siggi!
  8. druxey
    What kind of model are you building? If you can supply more details, perhaps we can provide more helpful answers.
  9. druxey
    As Toni has said, the 'generic' set of plans and CD from Admiralty Models has all the information for building a properly framed 'Swan' class hull. If you wish to build a complete model of a specific ship, you will need additional plans. These are copies of the original draughts, often showing complete details of carved works, that are held by Royal Museums Greenwich, formerly called the National Maritime Museum. The plans you will need are Sheer and profile Forecastle, quarter deck and upper deck If fully detailing below: Lower deck and platforms (Optional is the Disposition of frame plan)
  10. druxey
    Lovely. I'm sure that in the real world, the two sides would be slightly different, so your model is super-realistic!
  11. druxey
    Remove the table again. Are there screws holding the base plate to the green sub-base that are loose? I'd check that before messing with the gib screws. I don't think your problem is anything to do with the ways and gibs.
  12. druxey
    Those adjusting screws are gib screws. They control the tightness of the slides by varying pressure on the metal pads. The are usually satisfactory straight out of the box. The rocking you describe sounds abnormal: the x-y table should be rock-steady. Are the Allen screws you used to attach the table to the base too long and bottoming out before the heads tighten down?
  13. druxey
    You are certifiably crazy or a genius, Dan!
  14. druxey
    You are right: the binnacle on Victory is a Victorian creation. Your 'take' on the binnacle from Amazon looks perfect, Siggi.
  15. druxey
    Thanks for these informative posts!
  16. druxey
    Lovely work so far!
  17. druxey
    Hamilton: I'm sending you some information by PM.
  18. druxey
    Thanks, Mark. All my reference books are packed for moving, so I couldn't check. French ships must have lost a lot of rudders!
  19. druxey
    And there is the Echo cross-section scratch build as well - check that out!
  20. druxey
    Beautiful work, Rekon. Question: does the lower end of the rudder actually extend as far as the bottom of the false keel? In English ships, the rudder was always shorter, in case the ship touched ground.
  21. druxey
    So, you were able to track down drawings of the Wallace and Crawford patent pumps. Well done! The working version, as well as the 1:96 one, looks exquisite. Congratulations.
  22. druxey
    There are also three plates to this booklet, which are unfortunately not reproduced in the version cited.
  23. druxey
    Lovely job, Bob. On my first model I drilled all the thousands of treenail holes using a pin vice, so know how you felt! I now 'dimple' the surface with a sharp point and can then confidently use a rotary handpiece (a Proxxon in this case) to drill those holes where I want them.
  24. druxey
    Congratulations on a fine model, Clare. Cheers!
  25. druxey
    This looks very interesting! Thanks for bringing Onshape to our attention.

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