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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Well, if you want to use solid wood, you would use a thin sheet to begin with, then lay the styles and rails on both sides, to balance the 'sandwich'. Three layers, just like ply.
  2. No matter whether you use ply or solid wood, the panels have to be balanced; that is to say, an odd number of layers, preferably with grain in each layer at right angles to the adjacent one.
  3. Just caught up on your log: congratulations, Rusty. Very nicely finished and impressive!
  4. Most of the early U.S. shipwrights were British trained, so there would be very little difference in structural engineering.
  5. I freehand bend to suit, sometimes over-bending slightly, let the plank dry off-model, glue and then treenail.
  6. Oh, my. That is one quantity of knees to be fitted! I wish you well on this particular journey, Ed.
  7. wq: I did mean left and right, as viewed from above!
  8. wq: Deck beam scarphs seem always to have been made in the vertical plane. Counterintuitive, I know! Certainly wide span beams had supporting pillars under them.
  9. Nicely done video. Might I suggest using brass wire for the eye and ringbolts rather than steel, though? Then there is no danger of rusting.
  10. Castello Boxwood or Lemonwood are very similar if not identical species.
  11. I agree that the inside looks good from that angle, Ben. However, it's harder to hide any unfairness outside the hull!
  12. Thanks for posting this interesting image. This is something I've never seen in other paintings and is perhaps an important historical detail. Are you free to tell us the location of this painting, Barking?
  13. Thanks for taking my comments in the spirit that they were intended, Ben! That astern photo seems to indicate that they are sitting high.
  14. By now you realize that the answer is 'it all depends'. The more specific you are as to the time and place that the ship was built, the more precise an answer you will get from the experts on this site.
  15. I imagine at this time period 30' 0" lengths of timber were easily available, which is more than 8 meters. I suppose, depending on the geographic location of the shipyard, if only shorter lengths were available they would have scarphed them together. You are the master shipwright: you decide!
  16. Nice job on the gratings, Toni. Also nice-looking capstan partners.
  17. 10" seems about right to me as well. Perhaps 8" were used at a later time, with smaller raw materials and more powered saws. Personally, I spile all my planks and steam bend them in the other plane. No clamps or pins usually required. They then sit down and stay where they should.
  18. Looks good, Ben. You might want to check the second and third cants from aft: they look to be sitting a bit high and will give you a problem later when it comes to fairing. All they will need is a little shaved off their feet to lower them after you've broken out the isopropanol.
  19. I've used the 'melted end' technique and find controlling the process quite tricky. It's hard to do this consistently. Looks like you've nailed the technique though.
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