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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Cutting Lap joints for Deck Furniture, etc.
druxey replied to Stuntflyer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
With practice and a sharp chisel, you should be able to cut consistent joints. Accurate mark-out is also critical. -
Possibly consider using your computer to print this out at very high resolution?
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Looking good so far, Altalena!
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I seem to recall brake fluid will do the trick without damaging the plastic but, before you do that, check with an on-line plastic model making site.
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It's always nice to see a model of a subject that's more unusual. Scroll saw skills improve with a bit of practice. I find a fine blade, tensioned properly, and a good light improved my success rate considerably.
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Nice corrective surgery, Ed. The beams and knees will ensure that the hull form stays put later, right?
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Thanks for sharing your research and findings, E&T. Excellent sleuthing!
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Part of the answer here (apart from the good advice already given) is the kind of wood you are using. Most wood supplied with kits is far too coarse-grained for the purpose. If you look at Mr. Jacquith's photos, you can barely see any grain structure in the wood he uses. There are several species that are suitable and really nice to use for model making, including holly, pear and Castello. Suppliers like The Hobbymill (see 'sponsors' on the home page of this site) stock these and will cut them to your specs.
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The best way? Don't use CA at all!
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Admiralty Models will be running workshops on sailmaking later this Fall. See their web site.
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Part of the issue seems to be the wing transom. The upper outer corner should meet the aft side of the last frame at an angle, not a curve.
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There are three planking tutorials right here on MSW. Take a look at them first.
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Fitting of top mast in a raking mast.
druxey replied to roach101761's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Yes, the topmast would need to be lowered from time to time, so a fid would be required. It would need to sit squarely on the trestle trees. -
Fitting of top mast in a raking mast.
druxey replied to roach101761's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Assuming that the cross and trestle trees are set parallel to the waterline, no special arrangement would be needed other than the space for the topmast to pass through would need to be slightly oblong rather than square, and the fid hole cut in the topmast heel so that the fid was normal to the trestle trees. Or am I in error? -
Thanks for alerting us to the measuring tool on the Smithsonian 3D site. Cool!
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John Cole's advice is sound, as is Jim Lad's suggestion that you read the articles that are available right here on MSW. To start with, take a look at the tutorials on planking.
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Very nice, Don - but I still think I'll stick with manual lofting!
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Yes, that clamp is a tough one to get in nicely. I'm sure the original shipwrights were thinking the same as you as they wrestled it into shape and place! Well done, Mark.
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Now I'm seeing things - a scale pelican???? Lovely looking stern, too.
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I'm sure that there are tutorials on the 'net, particularly among folk who build dioramas. Try searching under 'diorama painting techniques'.
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I note that it is almost exactly a year (OK, less a week!) since you began this model. It is amazing at what you have achieved in that time. Well done, Ed!
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THE BLACKEN-IT TRIALS
druxey replied to Erebus and Terror's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Your problems that white metal is not pewter or brass. Each metal has its own chemistry and the solution for one metal will either not work, or works poorly, on a different metal or alloy. You can see that the formula for each is very different: White metal is an alloy of any of the following: antimony, tin, lead, cadmium, bismuth and/or zinc. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc. Pewter is an alloy of tin, with small amounts of copper, antimony, bismuth and, occasionally, lead. -
Getting fine debris out from below is an issue, Ed. A narrow home-made nozzle extension on a vacuum will only work to a point. My only other strategy is a tedious one: a dampened pointed brush and laboriously picking out particles, piece by piece. Anyone else have a better solution?
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For non-German speakers: 'Flacheisen': flat iron bar 'Rundeisen': round iron bar 'Stutzknie aus hotlz': wooden standard
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