druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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So, one of your ships has finally been found! I guess you'll need to rename yourself EorT, for the moment.- 346 replies
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This framing photo shows you how the wing transom is shaped at the outer corners. (This model is of a sixth rate, so is smaller and has less transoms than a 74, but is essentially similar.) Note the smooth run of the filling transoms' surfaces up to the margin line. There is no sharp turn or bend, which appears on your frame grab.
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Whether to impress, drill and fill with coloured wax, or actually treenail is very much a personal preference. If you do some other test pieces using the different techniques you can see which appeals to you best.
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Michael: take a look at the three planking articles pinned on this site. That will help you understand planking better.
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Ah, 'twas ever thus in pursuit of perfection.... Hopefully the re-do will satisfy you. Look forward to seeing your progress.
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Oh, dear. Your disease is worse than I thought. I'm so sorry, E&T....
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Terrific research, E&T. How did you determine the number and titles of the books Crozier had along? Just kidding.
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I believe some minor errors were corrected in the second edition.
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Cutting Lap joints for Deck Furniture, etc.
druxey replied to Stuntflyer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Any reasonable brand of chisel will do. Lee Valley Tools have a good selection. The key is sharpening it. Take a look at Lee Valley's sharpening jig (Mark II Honing Guide) and water stones. Until I got these (many years ago now!) I could never cut a good clean joint. Once I learned how to properly sharpen and hone my tools I amazed myself at what I could do with them. They also have a good book on sharpening tools properly. Start out with a ⅜" or ½" bevel edged chisel, then add others as and when you need them. Disclaimer: other than as a long-time customer of LV, I have no other connection with them. -
Cutting Lap joints for Deck Furniture, etc.
druxey replied to Stuntflyer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
With practice and a sharp chisel, you should be able to cut consistent joints. Accurate mark-out is also critical. -
Possibly consider using your computer to print this out at very high resolution?
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Looking good so far, Altalena!
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I seem to recall brake fluid will do the trick without damaging the plastic but, before you do that, check with an on-line plastic model making site.
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It's always nice to see a model of a subject that's more unusual. Scroll saw skills improve with a bit of practice. I find a fine blade, tensioned properly, and a good light improved my success rate considerably.
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Nice corrective surgery, Ed. The beams and knees will ensure that the hull form stays put later, right?
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Thanks for sharing your research and findings, E&T. Excellent sleuthing!
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Part of the answer here (apart from the good advice already given) is the kind of wood you are using. Most wood supplied with kits is far too coarse-grained for the purpose. If you look at Mr. Jacquith's photos, you can barely see any grain structure in the wood he uses. There are several species that are suitable and really nice to use for model making, including holly, pear and Castello. Suppliers like The Hobbymill (see 'sponsors' on the home page of this site) stock these and will cut them to your specs.
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The best way? Don't use CA at all!
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Admiralty Models will be running workshops on sailmaking later this Fall. See their web site.
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Part of the issue seems to be the wing transom. The upper outer corner should meet the aft side of the last frame at an angle, not a curve.
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There are three planking tutorials right here on MSW. Take a look at them first.
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Fitting of top mast in a raking mast.
druxey replied to roach101761's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Yes, the topmast would need to be lowered from time to time, so a fid would be required. It would need to sit squarely on the trestle trees. -
Fitting of top mast in a raking mast.
druxey replied to roach101761's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Assuming that the cross and trestle trees are set parallel to the waterline, no special arrangement would be needed other than the space for the topmast to pass through would need to be slightly oblong rather than square, and the fid hole cut in the topmast heel so that the fid was normal to the trestle trees. Or am I in error? -
Thanks for alerting us to the measuring tool on the Smithsonian 3D site. Cool!
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John Cole's advice is sound, as is Jim Lad's suggestion that you read the articles that are available right here on MSW. To start with, take a look at the tutorials on planking.
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