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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
druxey replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Then either the draftsman forgot to draw the openings on the deck plan or the deck planks are removable. That the planks are moveable is less likely, as the beams would be rebated to take the plank ends. I think that those two pairs of short lines in the deck plank between the beams show moveable square covers. -
ancre La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
druxey replied to tadheus's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Is there either a scuttle in one of the bulkheads, or do those short lines in the deck above indicate small hatch openings? -
AOTS series often contain errors, unfortunately. The planking pattern you show is one example. The second version is correct. If the first layout were actually used, once one butt gave way, the rest would follow like a zipper. (This particularly applies to hull planking). The second, staggered pattern minimizes this possibility and is much stronger.
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
druxey replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I'm sorry also to read of your friends' passings. In troubled times, model making is good therapy. Congratulations on your children's successes, though.- 4,152 replies
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Poor Man's Photo Etch Parts
druxey replied to torpedochief's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Very clever adaptation of conventional photo-etching, Don! I wonder how small you can go using this process. Have you experimented with that? -
If you haven't already done so, look at dealing with a bluff bow planking job as seen in David Antscherl's planking tutorial on this site.
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A Spanish windlass arrangement, perhaps? It would have been the simplest method for applying torque to the hypozomata.
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You need a tissue that will stand up to wetting without disintegrating. Also, shiny would be distracting, I think.
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You figurehead might look like Kermit to you, Omega, but at that scale the overall effect or impression is what matters. In this case, the effect looks very good.
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50-gun ship by newbee - 1/72 scale
druxey replied to newbee's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Good things do take time, you know! Looks like you are on your way, Newbee. -
Holly tones down nicely after a few years. Is that a possible compromise? Some 18th century models' cabins were painted with in a pale eau-de-nil green or light blue.
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And your opinion of this new book, please?
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Ah! A great collective noun is suggested by the photo of your clamps clamping the deck clamp (is that clear?): 'a grip of clamps'. Thank you, Mark! Those deck clamps look great as well.
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Terrific work, as usual, Ed! Would marking, say, the top timber height of every third or fourth toptimber and running a light batten to get the intermediate ones have been a option? I'm curious as to why you used the height gauge to measure every last one.
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No. However, a larger scale mock-up with modelied clay sculptures should help you figure out how to carve them in wood. I've found that process to be helpful on other models, an example of which is attached.
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Sorry about your early snowfall, Michael. Fire up that wood stove! Great way to use up your scrap wood....
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So, one of your ships has finally been found! I guess you'll need to rename yourself EorT, for the moment.
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This framing photo shows you how the wing transom is shaped at the outer corners. (This model is of a sixth rate, so is smaller and has less transoms than a 74, but is essentially similar.) Note the smooth run of the filling transoms' surfaces up to the margin line. There is no sharp turn or bend, which appears on your frame grab.
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Whether to impress, drill and fill with coloured wax, or actually treenail is very much a personal preference. If you do some other test pieces using the different techniques you can see which appeals to you best.
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Michael: take a look at the three planking articles pinned on this site. That will help you understand planking better.
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Ah, 'twas ever thus in pursuit of perfection.... Hopefully the re-do will satisfy you. Look forward to seeing your progress.
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Oh, dear. Your disease is worse than I thought. I'm so sorry, E&T....
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Terrific research, E&T. How did you determine the number and titles of the books Crozier had along? Just kidding.
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I believe some minor errors were corrected in the second edition.
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Cutting Lap joints for Deck Furniture, etc.
druxey replied to Stuntflyer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Any reasonable brand of chisel will do. Lee Valley Tools have a good selection. The key is sharpening it. Take a look at Lee Valley's sharpening jig (Mark II Honing Guide) and water stones. Until I got these (many years ago now!) I could never cut a good clean joint. Once I learned how to properly sharpen and hone my tools I amazed myself at what I could do with them. They also have a good book on sharpening tools properly. Start out with a ⅜" or ½" bevel edged chisel, then add others as and when you need them. Disclaimer: other than as a long-time customer of LV, I have no other connection with them.
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