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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    That is a nice set-up, coffeemaker and all! Welcome back, Kay.
  2. druxey
    I agree with Joe. If you plan on doing a lot of rigging, an adjustable height table is a plus. How are you planning on using the table? Just to keep the model on while working on it? If so, it doesn't need to be large, If it needs to act as a workbench, then you will always need a size larger than what you actually have! Any table wider than about 24" is awkward to reach across. Sturdiness for safety is good, too. Also, you can never have enough storage. (See Remco's drawer set!)
  3. druxey
    The 'treenails' in the D. Fernando II e Gloria are probably side-grain plugs over nails or spikes. You would not want end-grain wood on deck: moisture will wick in and promote rot in short order.
  4. druxey
    Swivel guns of the period were ½ pounders, usually measuring 36". 'Falconet' refers to a much earlier weapon from the 1500's.
  5. druxey
    Sweeps were probably bundled and stored with the spare spars above the waist of the ship. In a smaller ship these would rest on the gallows crosspiece aft and and forecastle breastwork.
  6. druxey
    Looking good, Ben!
  7. druxey
    Oh, yes, and there's also a planetarium in Mystic Seaport....
  8. druxey
    Also Manitowoc is an interesting little town. There is a house/museum with Chinese antique scrolls and paintings and a real 1920's soda fountain shop. The other big model show is at New London, CT (near Mystic Seaport) at the end of April each year.
  9. druxey
    The width of the sweep blade was such that it would slide through the port on the diagonal.
  10. druxey
    Manitowoc? A place in Wisconsin on the west shore of Lake Michigan that has an annual boat show.
  11. druxey
    Glad things are working out, Alan! If you can limit your excess wood to 1/64"outside the line, you'll save a lot of elbow grease and dust when it comes to fairing. Of course, you will need to be particularly particular (is that redundant?) in assembling the frames and when erecting them, but your work looks good so far. And yes, this is not a five-minute job.
  12. druxey
    As Wayne suggested, theory and practice did not always coincide. I'm sure that a spar of roughly the right length was pressed into service on many an occasion. What size of ship and date have you in mind?
  13. druxey
    There were no oarlocks attached to sweep ports. The sweeps were pushed through the ports only when needed.
  14. druxey
    You will also find variations in colour tend to even out over time with exposure to light and air.
  15. druxey
    One can get even finer ended needle-nose pliers (jewelers' supply houses), but the best Swedish ones are quite pricey at around US$50.00. However, they perform beautifully. Just don't drop them accidentally on to concrete as I once did!
  16. druxey
    Actually, Grasshopper, I don't spend that much time on this site: I do limit the number of threads that I follow, though. Your strategy of 'a piece at a time' is a good one.
  17. druxey
    It's an interesting read, full of anecdotes from the period. Recommended!
  18. druxey
    Looks like you're having fun!
  19. druxey
    Also any store that does architectural print work.
  20. druxey
    Hats off to the outed Mr. Duffy!
  21. druxey
    So, the frames are becoming 'bolt dense'? Soon there will be very little frame wood left - just a maze of bolt heads! Your model continues to inspire, Ed.
  22. druxey
    Hint: If you are cutting gentle curves or straight lines with the scroll saw, I find a thicker rather than thinner blade (properly tensioned) gives better control. However, the tooth pattern must be such that at least three teeth should be within the thickness of material being cut.
  23. druxey
    Yes, E&T, the Scotch-Brite are the ones I'm using right now.
  24. druxey
    OK, OK! In my defence: I use a pair of pliers for changing blades and have never performed inadvertent surgery upon myself. I'm sorry that I ever brought the subject up, Ed! Enjoy your razor blades, ladies and gentlemen.
  25. druxey
    Recently I've experimented with abrading the metal surface before blackening in order to avoid nasty chemicals. I've been using Scotch-BriteTM radial bristle disks that are 400-grit. These disks, in a rotary tool, make short work of getting to a clean metal surface. The flexible bristles get into nooks and crannies nicely. I use the same technique prior to silver soldering.

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