druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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A very interesting preamble! When I was growing up in England, scallops were always served complete with adductor and orange 'tail'. Looking forward to seeing your model develop, Gary. -
Strake Widths
druxey replied to bwross11's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Lots of factors can weigh in. The size of ship, the radius of hull curves transversally, the timber available at the time and place.... and on it goes. -
HMS Victory Renovation - Outer Planking Removed
druxey replied to Steve20's topic in Nautical/Naval History
The 'filler' pieces may be a cheat from replacements: the gratings are certainly not original, but their appearance makes them look authentic. -
Also, apart from working late and tired, make sure that you also have good light and view things from all angles. We all have moments when we reach for the isopropanol to un-glue things! Good recovery.
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HMS Victory Renovation - Outer Planking Removed
druxey replied to Steve20's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Steve; thank you for posting these. Does the general public have access or are you privileged? -
Sweet!
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Yes, if planking goes over, no need to remove the spacers.
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The stop method for cutting the beveled ends of the pads is a standard one - the other method was suggested for those with less experience than you obviously have. Good progress!
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Unfortunately I'm not an expert on French practice, so do not know their function. I can only guess that they were for hooking onto temporarily. Perhaps an expert on this era and country can enlighten us: M. Delacroix, perhaps?
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The extra information helps! I assumed she was not British by the style of capstan. In Boudriot's The 74 Gun Ship, Volume II, page 30, shows this form of iron which is simply a ring above the channel. There is no deadeye in these.
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Can you give us some context, please? What is the date, nationality and rate of ship, plus name, if possible? Is this an 'as launched' plan? The draughtsmanship is beautifully detailed.
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While reading, enjoy the pleasure of anticipation!
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Nicely cut and fitted, Giampiero!
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Really this specie of wood is for cabinetry rather than model-making. Get a piece of wood that will bend well: pear or holly are good. Stain or paint to taste once formed.
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Wonderful attention to detail!
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Exemplary work!
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Oh, my! Your younger self would be amazed to see the model as she is now! And there's nothing worse than a dislocated courtier. Send him to the ER! Seriously, fine progress, Steven.
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Split bamboo draws far better than other woods for treenails. You are doing it right. Just use the layer right under the shiny outer 'skin'. Further in the material gets too soft and pithy. I'm not sure whether cedar will hold together down to scale size. You might try it.
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Looking very nice indeed, Claire. I'd recommend waiting for the chemical blackener; it will never chip off like paint could.
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All looks very ship-shape!
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Bob: I wondered about the narrowness of the deck strakes. Thanks for the explanation. I knew that an original deck would not be in such good shape.
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That deck planking is so beautifully laid that it's a pity the hatches don't follow the same lines instead of sitting there in ugly rectangles!
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It's a fallacy that one needs to turn a mast or spar! After all, full size masts and yards are shaped with hand tools, not on an enormous lathe. Also, in model work, thinner pieces will flex too much and possibly snap if turned, unless well supported.
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Glenn has it right. You start with a square section piece of wood, then make the round part by planing it eight-square, then sand it round. To make a round dowel square means that the square part will be too small in section.
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