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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Potential buyers please note that this model is based on the 1724 rebuilt ship, not the original 1682 yacht of King Charles.
  2. It's your model - your decision. It should reflect your own taste, not ours!
  3. If the hull is of basswood (it probably is), dents can often be relieved by brushing water on the area. It re-expands the wood fibers. Looks like your shaping is going well.
  4. Very inspirational! And thanks for your comments on FreeCAD, Gary. I might just try it!
  5. Mark: My fretwork was produced by using micro chisels, small drills and files. Each motif was a separate piece. I recall that I was grateful, as a couple of parts got messed up in process - it meant that the whole run wasn't ruined! The material was white butyrate plastic, I believe. (This model was made over 40 years ago, so I can't remember every detail!)
  6. It will be very difficult to fret out a curved piece unless you do it concave side up. The other problem to overcome is the compound curves on the quarter galleries.... Need to think this over. My Polyphemus had a solid 'backing' that I laminated up. The pierced parts were fretted in individual sections and fitted together on the backing. Perhaps a variant using a temporary backing might work?
  7. Hey! That should have been left for future fibre-optic conservator-explorers to find.
  8. Two thoughts: One, sometimes the purpose of something on a plan only becomes apparent when you model the ship in 3D. I've had many "Aha! So that's why they did it that way" moments. Two: were those 'proposed alterations' actually carried out?
  9. Well, I bet you were very wide awake drilling those tubes out! Well done. Small item: it's such a nice model, I'm going to point out that the belaying pins you have look far too chunky. The handle diameter is usually no more than 2" at full size and the pin 17" long overall. See a typical example at: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-3892?_gl=1*hlwx9x*_up*MQ..*_ga*OTc2MjMzNTAuMTc0MDM0MTQyNQ..*_ga_7JJ3J5DBF6*MTc0MDM0MTQyNC4xLjAuMTc0MDM0MTQyNC4wLjAuMA..*_ga_4MH5VEZTEK*MTc0MDM0MTQyNC4xLjAuMTc0MDM0MTQyNC4wLjAuMA.. I'm sure that you won't regret a re-do, Bruce.
  10. Welcome back, Remco! That light fixed block wil also darken on exposure to light and air. In a year or two - like the holly - it will blend in nicely. I'd forgotten what a nice job you've done so far. For drilling scuppers, I mark out carefully outside and in, then drill small pilot holes from both sides. They should meet - or almost meet- in the middle. A small round file will make any corrections before progressively enlarging to the correct diameter. Drilling should never be done from one side alone! As a cheat, you could simply drill blind holes from each side.
  11. Ladders are usually shown in the companionways. If you can look at draughts of similar vessels, usually the layout of these is similar. The two rectangles are scuttles (proposed - see Toni Levine's observation). They would have had solid covers flush with the deck, with lifting ring bolts.
  12. Either paint on thread or possibly card strips might be the solution at such a small scale. A master miniaturist's book like one of Philip Reed's will give a great number of effective 'cheats' at small scale.
  13. John - welcome aboard. Part of the model-making process is stuffing it up, then figuring out a solution to the problem. That is the enduring challenge and source of satisfaction! As Chris C. points out, the fact that you completed the model, warts and all, is a significant achievement.
  14. It looks as if some modifications were carried out between the two photos. - The steering column is shorter and more angled in photo 2. - The hydrofoil mounts look to be in the same relationship to the wheel in both pics. - Either the aft end has been shortened (unlikely) or the whole 'cockpit' moved aft about two feet. Comments or criticism?
  15. You may need to drill shallow holes in the hull for the rods to secure the boat properly. Doing a very nice 'kit bash' on the mast!
  16. With cotton, use water to 'tame' the line by making it flexible without fighting you. Dilute PVA will fix it in place.
  17. Looks like a highly posed photo! Look also at the blade angles....
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