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Everything posted by druxey
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Swan class 3D model in progress
druxey replied to dvm27's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Lovely! Just remember that the ensign (or any other flag) goes in the same direction as the wind filling the sails!- 141 replies
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- pof swan series
- swan
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(and 1 more)
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Thwart #4 seems to be in backwards.
- 28 replies
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- Shipwright Series
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(and 2 more)
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HMS ANSON 1781 by albert - 1/48 - 64 guns
druxey replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Progressing nicely. Framing seems to take forever! -
Gantry style building board dimensions advice
druxey replied to davec's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Have you considered MDF (medium density fibreboard)? It is flat and warp-free. -
Gantry style building board dimensions advice
druxey replied to davec's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Gesso fills grain and levels uneven surfaces. After several coats that have been applied and sanded, the surface is as smooth as one might wish. -
Well done, shrimp. To finish your first model is an accomplishment in itself. You did a nice job of those oars as well. Now you can build on those foundational skills.
- 12 replies
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- first build
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Gantry style building board dimensions advice
druxey replied to davec's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I'd really question the need for melamine. I use either ⅝" or ¾" quality ply with several coats of gesso, well sanded between coats, to provide a level surface that will easily take pencil marks. (Gesso both sides to prevent warping.) The board is stabilised from beneath with two inset longitudinal 1 x 2 pine boards on edge, well screwed down. -
HMS ANSON 1781 by albert - 1/48 - 64 guns
druxey replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
It's always good to see your progress; the work of someone who knows exactly what he's doing. Lovely! -
If you are referring to the standard, it usually had the gammoning slot on its underside. It was firmly bolted through the knee of the head and was certainly strong enough to resist upward forces from the gammoning and bowsprit. Remember that there were also bobstays to reduce this load. The standard is rarely shown in the 'as built' sheer plan.
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Your attention to detail is astonishing! If you want to try gold leaf again, there is a new system that i used recently and works like a charm. No waiting for the right amount of 'tack' for oil gilding or messing with rabbitskin glue for water gilding. It's called Kölner Instacoll and made in your country - Germany! It's in two parts, water based. Check it out.
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Yellow and Yellow Ochre
druxey replied to Fishooks's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Generally earth pigment paints are not high in chroma (bright and intense in color). Also impurities in the pigments used would dull the color as well. So, your suspicion that bright yellow on a period model is incorrect is very justified! The other factor to consider is the effect of distance and scale. The further one is from an object, the more the color sees to be leached out and, in the far distance, bluer. The smaller the scale of your model, the colors should be more diluted, as it were, so that the model does not look toy-like. -
Another well-done reconstruction. Terrific, Steven!
- 507 replies
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