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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    I agree with Marc that, for fine work, breath control is essential. It's a very zen and highly focussed exercise. A really good quality sable brush that 'points' well is another ingredient for success. Oh, yes, and patience!
  2. druxey
    Just remember to make a left and right, not two of the same! Well done so far.
  3. druxey
    Back already? Good stuff, Bob!
  4. druxey
    That was quick! Well done, Kevin.
  5. druxey
    Looks terrific! Well done, Bob. Please make sure she gets a protective case now, she's worth it.
  6. druxey
    Traditionally decks were nailed and the heads countersunk. The hole above was filled with a diamond shaped or round wood plug, grain running the same way as the planking. As a result it is not very visible. Side and bottom planking treenails are far more obvious. My personal preference is no treenails in deck planks, although many models have them.
  7. druxey
    The most impressive model of her that I saw as a child was this one by I. W. Marsh: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66011
  8. druxey
    The most likely reason for the groove is that the tip end of the plank drops as it comes off the outfeed table. Two solutions: One, hold the outfed plank close to the lip of the outfeed table, not its far end. Two, construct an extension to the outfeed side to support longer stock.
  9. druxey
    Oooh! You didn't mention scale, Allan! 1:196 is certainly a very different proposition. Photoetch, perhaps?
  10. druxey
    Welcome back, Daniel! Good to see you in the shipyard again.
  11. druxey
    As you are using card, why not paper sails as well? Many model-makers use SilkSpan with great success.
  12. druxey
    Generally panes were no larger than about 9" by 12". Some contemporary models show sashes as well, just to up the game. You can see tis in one of the photos you posted. If you are building at 1:48, you should be able to use 1/64" square Castello or similar to form the dividing muntins. The trick is an accurate card pattern of each light from which to work. One method is shown in TFFM, Volume II. Cuttigng and gluing wood will be easier than wire!
  13. druxey
    It will be next year, I understand. Well worth waiting for!
  14. druxey
    Also: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-388866
  15. druxey
    The asymmetry of bore is quite remarkable!
  16. druxey
    A very creative solution, SHJ!
  17. druxey
    The Science Museum (London) once published a set of her lines at 1:48 scale: https://collection.maas.museum/object/149083 Perhaps you can run down a copy of this plan.
  18. druxey
    Very nicely and neatly done!
  19. druxey
    Were there any means of elevating the piece? From your reconstruction, it appears not.
  20. druxey
    Interesting to see the similarities and variations from other carriages of the era. Congratulations on completing one stage of your project, Waldemar.
  21. druxey
    Indeed. Cheers!
  22. druxey
    That red line measurement should run all the way along the post, up the transom bulkhead and to the 'corner' where the strip representing the topside comes; just like the other green measurements.
  23. druxey
    Off to flying start! But do take things at an easy pace, or 'oopsies' will ensue!
  24. druxey
    Ditto, Ed!
  25. druxey
    Well done! Those 'planks' and the ekeing rails are the toughest timbers to form in a ship.

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