druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Well done on a challenging project! You should be very proud of the end result, Ian. Of course, I have to ask what is next? -
And no-one can prove you wrong! Well done.
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Certainly the English scored the deadwood for the heels of the frames for exactly the reason you state. It would be the only reasonable solution to the problem.
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Sills are probably the trickiest part of framing, except perhaps for cant frames. Gettigng the scores just so and the sill the exact length is a test of patience.
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Congrats on the addition to your family!
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Received Rob Napier's new book yesterday. A terrific read on Rob's career and a record of model cleaning and conservation. In addition it contains a sound philosophy on ship models and considerations to building in longevity to what we do.
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The lightness of a model's yards is a factor here. I pin the yards to the masts to overcome this. A small length of hard, blackened brass wire is almost invisible, as the yard is held slightly away from the mast it is raised on.
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Ways to reduce breakage: 1) Use bamboo with its long, parallel fibers. Split it first into smaller cross-sections by halving and re-halving the lengths. 2) Use parallel pliers to draw the pieces through the plate. The fibers aren't crushed which happens with regular pliers. 3) Draw steadily and in a straight line. 4) Only use the hard part of the bamboo just under the glassy outer layer.
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Apart from the "Honey, I shrunk the ship" shot, superb rendering work, Ron.
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- Sphinx
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You have achieved an excellent result with your 'wood' trim. Well done, Bob!
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So, you pay less for postage, but the mail strike hold things up instead. Can't win!
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Bienvenue and welcome aboard, Patrick!
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The 'alligatored' pebble-grain paint surface looks as if the model was exposed to extreme heat. Is this attic in a hot climate?
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Just catching up to you, Steven. Fascinating research and interpretation of those images.
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Thank you for educating us, Dick. I wonder wherher the ladder-like iconography represents internal thwarts or even frames?
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I use a ruling pen whose tips can be adjusted for width with acrylic paint, suitably diluted to flow nicely. (Each time you load the pen using a brush, test draw on scrap first!)
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Very methodical, and I like the felt 'buffer' that you have over the drill chuck. Clever idea! Acts both as a depth stop and anti-marring device.
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Terrific work, as ever, Valeriy. It's a pity new the lovely details are almost hidden in the middle of all the other lovely detail!
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A little ripper from Veretas
druxey replied to PeteB's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Nice set-up, Ron. Whose sharpening guide is this? -
A little ripper from Veretas
druxey replied to PeteB's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Tip: don't rest the plane on its sole, but always on its side. The blade will stay sharper longer. -
Well, the real seams had an overlap where the canvas was doubled. It was probably at least an inch or two wide. One would not see a stitched line at scale size. The effect is more obvious in transmitted light:
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There you go! Trying new techniques for the first time is always daunting, but then one finds it not so bad after taking the plunge. You might want to make the 'seams' a bit wider next time.
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Agree that scraping off the point will improve adhesion.
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