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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Looks like a very good beginning, Chris. I was never up early enough when my daughter was young, and got no model-making done for ten years. Most enterprising of you!
  2. Some of the planking terminates before reaching the stem. The garboard (strake next to the keel) ends just where the stem begins to curve. Look at the planking tutorials on this site to get the idea. Nothing wrong with your 'fan' and the way you are using it.
  3. Without a rigid wire core, in a model it is difficult to avoid some deflection of the stays.
  4. Ah, the old faithful Unimat! Mine is still going since 1970. Had you considered using a center in the tailstock to provide more support? That would take care of the hole that you need to drill anyway.
  5. Stopping the rabbet on the keel forward of the post was standard in English ships. Not only (as mentioned by Ed) did this not weaken the narrowing keel, but the garboard strake which widens here can be got out of a slightly narrower plank as a result.
  6. And so work continues.... Good to see you back at it, Ben.
  7. Tonphil: If you can afford it, get the Byrnes saw. There is no comparison, particularly in power for cutting heavier stock.
  8. Congratulations, George, on a lovely model and for her display in the Maritime Museum. Well done!
  9. Slow and methodical does the trick.... That framing looks really nice so far.
  10. Nice demonstration of the triumvirate of lines at the clue of the sail. Now no-one seeing your photos will be clueless!
  11. Nice explanation, Ron. BTW, rubbing alcohol is also an effective acrylic solvent and is cheaper than Brush Restorer!
  12. The Battle of the Bitts! An epic combat indeed. Let's hope the result holds this time around. Neat repair job, Steven. For drilling small holes, do you not have a set of small drill bits, #61-80? Using them a pin chuck, you can drill holes in tight spots when necessary.
  13. William Elliott (active 1774–1810) was a lieutenant in the Royal Navy and marine painter. Elliott gained some repute from his paintings of the naval actions between 1780 and 1790. He first appears as an exhibitor in 1774 at the Free Society of Artists, with 'A Perspective View of the European Factory at Canton in China,' and 'A View of the Green, &c. at Calcutta in Bengal.' At the Royal Academy he first appears as an honorary exhibitor in 1784 with 'A Frigate and Cutter in Chase;' to the same exhibition he subsequently contributed 'The Fleet in Port Royal Harbour, Jamaica, after the Action of 12 June 1781' (1785), 'View of the City of Quebec' (1786), 'Breaking the French Line during Lord Rodney's Action on 12 April 1782' (1787), 'The Fire at Kingston, Jamaica, on 8 Feb. 1782' (1788), 'The Action between H.M.S. Quebec and Le Surveillant' and 'The Action between H.M.S. Serapis and Le Bonhomme'. More at: https://www.wikiwand.com/en/William_Elliott_(painter) If using that image, allow for the yellowed varnish having altered the actual coloration of the painting. It is likely much bluer under.
  14. Approach with extreme patience, Kevin! It is a lengthy exercise. Make the treenails as small as practical; so often they are clunky and far out of scale. I mark out and prick each position first so that the drill doesn't wander and mess things up. Dip te ens of the treenail material in slightly diluted white glue, push it into a hole, snip short or flush using flush cutters. Repeat. Repeat.... When complete, the surface will look knobbly (see pic), but will look great after you've sanded it down.
  15. Mix a little white glue or acrylic matte medium with your water when forming coils. Your model is definitely looking good. Hope the cat's ears have recovered....
  16. Even with scratch built models, I pin the yards to keep them in place while parrals, trusses or whatever appropriate gear is added. If the wire is blackened, it is not obvious.
  17. I would not recommend Gorilla glue for model-making purposes. But you know that already. PVA (white glue) or aliphatic (yellow) is more than adequate for wood to wood bonding.
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