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druxey

NRG Member
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Everything posted by druxey

  1. a) You must have supplied several navies with blocks and line by now and b) you need to purchase Brunel's block-making machinery from Portsmouth.
  2. When wet, SilkSpan is delicate, as you've discovered. It needs gentle handling when lifting out of the water. Hold the piece by the edges on a diagonal, so excess water runs off the bottom corner. Once it has about ceased to drip, the sheet needs to be flopped carefully onto the frame with the plug in place. Wait a bit until it begins to dry before taping down, then remove the plug to let things dry and shrink taut. Using 'dope' (mentioned above) might affect any use of acrylic or other water-based paint adhering.
  3. I'm sorry to read your response, Waldemar, and will politely withdraw from this discussion.
  4. Read the planking articles posted on this site!
  5. Have fun, Maury! Good to see you back working on the model.
  6. I'm sorry to say that your post #75 and #78 to Wayne is, to put it charitably, unkind. Perhaps - assuming that English is your second language - you did not intend it to be a sharp as it reads, but that is the way I took it. Please be more careful. I take this thread to be an academic exercise of enquiry for respectful discussion. Now, I've looked at your range of stern post rakes and find that 18 degrees has a ratio of 1:3, and 22.5 degrees is 1:2.5 within experimental limits. I still think that you might consider the validity of constructing angles by ratio.
  7. Lovely attention to detail on those hanging knees.
  8. Yes, that is the Robert Lightley model, Roger.
  9. Do check out the planking primer by D. Antscherl on this site. Following it should solve all your problems.
  10. Beautifully done. The time and care taken are paying off big time!
  11. It can be done without a lathe at all, just like the full-sized spars are shaped. There are numerous references online you can check out, whee the spar is made four-sided, then octagonal and finally rounded. (The last step can be done in the workshop with a strip of sandpaper.)
  12. Mockup looks great, Ben. Just be sure to slope the 'verticals' of the lettering to match the angles of the counter timbers as well. A subtle but nice refinement!
  13. I would not necessarily rely on build logs here; many models are painted to 'captain's fancy'. Go to sites like https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects#!cbrowse to see contemporary models and paintings of the time period; these will give you a more accurate picture of what ships actually looked like.
  14. Welcome aboard, fellow Ontarian! Must be full-on winter up your way....
  15. Nicely done, Ben. And Greg has a good point - it has happened to me as well!
  16. In the past, at 1:48, I've put together several pieces to form those compound curves. The rail also curves in plan view AND is sloped as seen from the side!)
  17. You assume a distance of the stern post overhang using an estimated overall 85' 0", or a measured 6' 9". The ratio of 6' 9" to 18' 0" is very close to 1:2.5 which is what I suspect Baker used in his construction. That angle produced by that ratio is 22 degrees. See how that fits, Waldemar.
  18. You may find that the angle 20.5 degrees is actually a slope with a ratio of x inches in y inches (or feet).
  19. Nice wiggly tafferel rail, but the number of cross-grain sections will be difficult to work with....
  20. Welcome aboard!
  21. More CNC.... Soon you can just sit back and let automation take over!
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