CaptainSteve

What to do about this abomination...

 

That caused a great deal of consternation when I was doing my own Launch. None of us could work out exactly why it was necessary to stamp TRANS into that piece. It's easily the most recognisable part in the whole kit. Sanding it out won't work - I've tried !!

In the end, I planked over the part with thin (0.5mm) veneer. 

Happy Birthday, JL.

Looking good, Tom. Don't worry too much about the cutter ... once you begin fitting it out with seats, oars and a spar or two, any errant ribs will be almost completely hidden.

Outstanding job, Sawdust !!

A well-deserved beer, too !!!

Awesome (and intricate) work, Slog .... and great news on the new job !!

Ken.

I thought you might need this:

Half of your bulkheads will be meant to face the opposite direction so that the fairing will be correct. When it comes time to fit the ribs (frames), the sheer-tabs will help to prevent them from sliding off the faired bulkheads.

One idea would be to wax the lower edges of your bulkheads (after fairing) to ensure they do not stick to the frames.

It's just paper painted gun metal black with wires snipped off in them to simulate metal rivets.

 

Jesse

Great idea, Jesse ... That one is going straight in the Ideas Folder !!!

Magnificent work, Ken. Your tutorials, your attention to detail and the stunning close-up photography are an immeasurable asset.

Your Constitution is looking better and better every time I visit, Tom. And your 1812 research will prove most useful. For the keel pieces on the boats, I just used a piece of 1mm x 1mm stock and fashioned them into shape.

I faired the bulkheads before fitting the sheer tabs, too ... it just made more sense. I also thought it a good idea to add extra sheer tabs, but then removed them later, as they just got in the way.

Also, you may want to compare the stem-post from your kit against the plans. In my kit, the size of the cut-out for the pintles/gudgeons differed from one plan sheet ... but agreed with another. See here to see what I mean. My fix is here.

Thinking back to your false keel ... it probably would be a good idea to clamp the piece and press it as perfectly flat as you can. Even though your variance is only 1mm or so, it would help to align the bulkheads better if the keel was flat.

Hi, Sunsanvil. Just trying to address your questions. Firstly, the edge on the top of the central false keel should not matter at all. Ultimately, you will lift this whole frame (central keel piece with attached bulkhead formers) out. The frame is only used to give shape to your planking. 

As for your second query regarding the keel pieces ... personally, I used wood glue, also. Then I clamped the pieces down whilst the glue dried. If you are worried, then use the white wood glue. The yellow is probably stronger, but will also be thicker, and may add to any warpage.

Hope this helps you ... and I look forward to following your progress.

Excellent work, Michael ... as always !!

Nice work. Looks like you have hit the ground running, Tortoise ... that Hare had best beware !!

Incidentally, the rabbet line will later on provide a seating for the edges of your planking.

(I only learnt that one when I was at about the same stage of the build as you are now.)

'Tis good to see you - and Becky - back in the ship-yard, Buck.

(By the by, I think Becky has been leaving those notes around my workshop ... I'm working my way thru the more urgent ones.)

Tortoise: That would be CyanoAcrylate glue. Otherwise known as Super Glue.

It's really a personal choice as to which version you choose to build, LSMan. The research shows that the stern (and a number of other details) changed many times over the years, depending on battle damage, dry-dock restorations and re-fits, as well as Commander of the day.

Same here !!

(Except mine is blue)

John. Not sure if THIS will help with your problem ...

I really like the outcome from your test-piece, CH. Although, if the plank length in the test is the recommended length, then I agree - it would look too busy. Edging the planks with pencil makes them stand out nicely. If anything, I'd try to go for smaller tre-nails.

'Tis good to see you back at the work-bench, Jay.

UV, 

From my first post, commencing this thread ...

 

... forum based upon everyday items which could be tailored into ship parts to enhance our models.

 

The info is good, Cobr@ ... but Nenad is right. The whole point of this thread is using everyday stuff and turning it into ship parts. So, please people, back to the ideas ... 

Outstanding work, Ken !!