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justsayrow

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Everything posted by justsayrow

  1. John, Along the lines of just confirming: the material you are treating is 100% brass and not another alloy that is brass plated? R/ Jerry
  2. Jhenrique, I don't think you will find what you are seeking. I am a professional Naval Architect and shipbuilder. The last vessel I built had a drawing package of approximately 15,000 documents ranging from 1 to several hundred sheets or pages each. Simply too much data to present as a single drawing. Classic vessels were typical built by craftsmen working off physical models and rules of thumb. Then came lofting & molding of templates off tables of offsets. Now numeric models feed directly into automated cutters that nest as many parts as possible from a single plate. Often, layout instructions are burned directly onto the pieces. R/ Jerry
  3. The vessel in question has four signal flags flying. May be her call sign. Can't read them on my small screen though. Any one on a full monitor make them out? Might get info from google then.
  4. The SWIFT was the first planked hull that clicked for me. The references mentioned above helped tremendously. Yes to short planks. Treat each one as its own model. Chuck's manuals for the longboat and pinnace both have good planking tips.
  5. Ted, check out http://www.hnsa.org/resources/manuals-documents/booklets-of-general-plans-online/ They have one set of lines: for BB-45 COLORADO. A lot of other plans that you might reverse engineering into lines plans once you're dialed in. r/ Jerry
  6. Ben, great log. I will keep tabs on this one. I'm a Michigan NA&ME grad so the Fitz is near and dear to me. Andy's (reference Jan's post above) screen name is realworkingsailor, though as of last I knew he crossed the brow and is working in the office. A fellow alum of yours, Pete Jaquith, has several build log on here. His work is simply fantastic. Highly recommend doing a search for his work - he brings his real world shipbuilding experience to bear in miniature. Very cool stuff. R/ Jerry
  7. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_drill_and_tap_sizes When cutting the threads, go slow. 1/4 turn in, 1/8 turn out. Go slow. Use cutting fluid. Not sure if I mentioned it, but GO SLOW! You will break taps.
  8. Tim, your build really illustrates how breaking a model up into finely executed sub assemblies which are then brought together makes for a great piece. Love following this build!
  9. If you do head to Hobby Lobby, they have a standing coupon for 40% one item on their website and mobile app. $30 becomes $18.
  10. BCD, What's the teeth per inch on yr blades?
  11. Most spiling I've seen is done on after-market sheet wood. You're right, the kit planks aren't really suitable for it. Jerry
  12. Jay, Not sure where you got that particular one but I picked up one that looks just like it at Harbor Freight yesterday. It's in a "deluxe hobby knife kit" with three other holders and about 25 types of blades. It's on sale at mine for $14 USD. Don't think the blades will last long, good aftermarket blades are readily available. I particularly like the little rubber nubbin on the side that keeps it from rolling off the bench into ones foot! Jerry
  13. Gundorph, you might want to move your forward jig support aft to be closer to the hull. Being that far forward on the stem, it might be more likely to snap off the stem if the hull shifts at all side to side. Looks like a nice shipyard you set up! Jerry
  14. Please YES! to a log! This is a kit I've been interested in building. Maybe use instant set CA to accelerate the build and hold manually?
  15. Grant, Far and away my favorite kit to build! You are tackling my big regret from my build: the gauges. Good luck! Jerry
  16. Dafi is causing my Heller Victory to remain on the shelf for the time being... I hope he know the consternation he causes!!! :im Not Worthy:
  17. Peewee, love this kit! I'm really looking forward to following your progress.
  18. Bill, you beat me to it - I was going to mention Doris' work!
  19. Harvey, "by feel" is easy to type and hard to describe. One thing to keep in mind, would be interested to hear other's experiences, is keep in mind the temp and humidity when you're doing the rigging. In Houston, we get some wide swings in temp and humidity through the year and I can see spars move. If you make it tight when its hot and moist (Houston summers bless us with "air you can wear" it's so humid), come winter when it's dry and cool, the lines will really sing and pull things out of alignment. waxing the line before rigging helps a lot from humidity standpoint, still moves a bit with temperature changes. best teacher is experiment.... take some scrap, buy a dowel and fiddle with tying knots to gauge how tight you can make things. r/ Jerry
  20. Don, I usually smear a little Vaseline / petroleum jelly around the threads of the bottle before recapping it. this makes a positively airtight seal. it also makes the bottle much easier to open and close next time.
  21. Pete and I were at the same shipyard in San Diego (he recruited at my college and then also interviewed me at the yard) - he's a smart guy so I won't surprised me when admits to building full scale then hitting it with the Shrink-Ray he invented.
  22. Andy, think about not gluing the mast in - the rigging should hold it securely in place and lets you avoid having to hit it on the first shot.
  23. if you're looking for brown, I got good results with baking them at 450 for a few hours. they turned a nice brown with some rainbowing as well. you can monitor and pull them out at the appropriate doneness. Just make sure there are no films on the copper before baking!
  24. Pete, posting EAGLE & FAIR AMERICAN would be greatly appreciated! Jerry White
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