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md1400cs

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Everything posted by md1400cs

  1. Vivian, Acabou de encontrar seu log - (:-) will also follow. Welcome back- looking good. Nice project. PS My sweetheart (Eliana) is (on a Sunday) making me a Caipirinha -my baseball team lost today - She wants to help xo Cheers
  2. Mark, Yes as Pete said super fiddly and time consuming work that in the aggregate is well worth the time. You will be glad that you went the extra distance, especially with this current superb build. Nice update indeed. And yes do add the catharpins (:-)
  3. Glenn, Just catching up. Excellent work indeed. You set the bar very high!! - always a pleasure and learning experience when I visit your build log. PS: Might be "off timing" for you but Chuck (Syrene) is now stocking excellent new types of blocks. Cheers,
  4. Patrick, Thanks for your insight - this topic has been of interest to us. Appreciate the links as well - they do clear up confusions that I certainly had. Cheers
  5. Anton, Been following - need to say that your gilded detail work is very creative - and works very well visually on your build - Nice work indeed. Cheers,
  6. Ulises, Zoltan – thanks - always nice when you drop in. Your kind posts are also very encouraging indeed. EJ, Anton, Denis – Agreed will re-lash sprit mast with tarred ropes. Waiting for a new shipment from Chuck (his ropes and blocks are so perfect) Mates – yes the cannon/deck dimensions are in fact a bit odd indeed. Woodo if you discover more info that would be interesting. Duff Thanks for sharing the historical info that you posted - !! Thanks also EJ, Anton for the added discussion on this topic. Coxswain Thanks so much for all of the likes super appreciated (:-) Regarding Vasa weather deck canon long lengths I found this as a possible answer – maybe the canon builders had done some physical testing to determine what the link just below answers. https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/cannon-length-why-does-it-matter.195217/ The higher caliber cannons below did not need such long barrels - so it seems ========================= Always thankful for all of your visits, likes, and comments Cheers,
  7. Hi Mates, Continuing by installing the bowsprit mast. While deciding what size rope to use noticed my novice lack of rigging planning ahead. Easy fix (;-) Also needed to decide if I should use tarred rope or not. There seems to not be a right answer with this. The 1/10th installed tarred, and the 1:1 not. Clayton’s also did not use tarred. That said; the rope that I installed has a “shiny” tinge to it – not too comfortable with its look. Here are some preliminary shots of the work so far. PS: It would seem that these mast lashings, given the amount of moisture they receive, should be tarred? Cheers,
  8. EJ, Thanks indeed. Good info - thanks for your help, and they now (for me) even have a name. Cheers,
  9. EJ, Nice update on your rigging work. As you know I am presently "treading water" trying to get mine right. I am seeing a lot of these types of bits on my Corel rigging sheet. See your photo just below. I expect that you made these? Just three drilled holes and run the lines thought - nothing more nothing less? Also it looks as if fiddle blocks can also be used. Is it correct to run two ropes through - one above the pulley and one below? These details are a bit confusing to me. I installed double and triple blocks trying to accomplish the same thing - but removed them. I'm sure that I was totally wrong. Your advice will be much appreciated. PS: Deck IS also looking v. good. Regards,
  10. Denis: thanks you are always so kind with your posts (;-) Patrick: I used Landström for this bit. The only trouble I had was trying to locate falconets that matched the drawing from the book - I did not. I don't remember if F. Hocker mentions this in his books. As always thanks for your continued interest in this build.
  11. Koen, Thank you for your very nice remarks – very kind indeed. Your comments regarding the cannons are correct. This has also been one of the issues with Corel’s Wasa kit. The hull framing is much too narrow as Peter mentioned resulting in the problem that you noted. I wanted to create accurate gratings along with correct frames. As a result cannons have little room indeed. That was my choice of compromise. Patrick’s photo is also very intriguing – The Vasa had extremely long cannon barrels on its weather deck. Yes! How could they possibly re-load those guns?? And Patrick thanks, as well for your comment. EJ. Thanks, your thoughts are much appreciated as well. I got lucky with that extra bit of detailing, glad that you like it as well. This build is finally coming along. I hope to also start lathing the yards very shortly.
  12. Karl, Thanks for your nice thought - appreciated -- Regards,
  13. Part 2 of attempting to build and install catharpin for the lower main. First attempt was wrong, and out of scale. Referred to Anderson, but the jpg that B.E. sent made it much easier to understand. Again B.E. thanks for always being kind enough to also let me know when I’m doing something really wrong – always appreciated indeed. As mentioned in an earlier post this bit seems to be an English type of construction. Though it is installed on the Vasa 1/10th with this type of assembly. Put a positioning cradle to help with the install, and secured it into position. Then laced the middle ropes - on each side - to allow for proper tension as well proper alignment. Then removed the basswood cradle and attached the other eight lines. I’m very happy with this extra detailing – It was a stretch but nice bit of learning. I looked up the word cat-harpin, apparently, it is – of course- nautical in nature (any number of short ropes gathering in shrouds near their tops) - but the etymology is uncertain. Hmmm. ================= Standing rigging is coming along – hope to attach bowsprit mast this coming week. A few more detail shots of latest rigging work As always – thanks for your kind words, likes, and dropping by. Cheers,
  14. Hi Mates, B.E. thank - made those just not installed - Finished all of the ratlines, Happy to leave clove hitches behind - Now continuing with the various needed stays. Started with the mizzen topgallant stay. Needed a mouse – (according to Corel), then a double block is attached at the end of the stay – which then slips off to port and starboard main lower mast shrouds with four blocks. So served a line added a loop and then the mouse bit. But then decided to look at the 1/10th Hmmm (not before ha ha)- NO it’s a double line from the top of the mizzen topgallant top. Grrrr Then looked at the Billings sheets that Karl sent – seems to be missing altogether. I then reviewed his log and these are in fact on his build. So the work bellow was a waste of time (though these “mouse” bits are getting easier (;-) So back to square one with this bit. PS: The mouse can’t be saved – I already had cut the rope – too short for the fore topgallant stay. Cheers,
  15. Patrick, Super nice planking !! Solid interior hull shaping allowing for single (thicker) outer planking, along with your method of cutting/bracing the planks is excellent. I will keep this in my "memory files". I had not seen this before. Your build will be indeed a great one when finished (;-) Cheers,
  16. B.E., I will, of course, also bring my deck chair to your shipyard for your new project. Nice choice. Cheers,
  17. Anton, I have been looking for 1/75th figures, as I want to place one by my ship (when completed) as a size/perspective reference. Do you still have the packaging? if so kindly send or post a photo of box. I will look for this online to get a set ase well. Cheers,
  18. Anton, Well the amount of progress since your post of 1 May is F1 speed. Superb progress - but more importantly looking brilliant as well. I also so like the patina look to all of that metal decorative gilding. That subtle look is perfect. Nice paint, and treenail detailing !! PS: It takes me 13 days to clove hitch 5 rows of rat lines --- ha ha Cheers,
  19. B.E., Thanks for your kind thoughts as well as your always very excellent advice. Yes those blocks are indeed out of scale (and wrong). I woke up in the middle night, and my mind kept me awake thinking about how to do this correctly. I knew then that all of it was of the wrong scale. I actually wanted to return to my earlier pleasant dream of living a Gauguin style of life in the South Pacific, but no! my head kept spinning around the catharpins rigging issue. I don’t have access to your source. I did Google it, available reference, but not that specific page. My Roth, Mondfeld, Mansis, and Peterson sources were to no avail either, Anderson being the only one. Yes, in fact a deadeye is called for. Staring at the 1/10th I kept seeing triple blocks then squinted and saw the correct deadeyes. I’m determined to (after two work sessions) to see this detail through. As a rigging novice I was stymied. I will follow Anderson’s procedure. I think that I understand this now – my working vocabulary is still limited Hmmm. Ironically enough his explanation and drawings are perfect – I just did not understand all of it. I will also use one continuous strand through the deadeyes to the shrouds. B.E. thanks so much for still following along and always helping when you see something really wrong – so appreciated - As always, Regards. it at first read.
  20. Dennis, thanks - So decided to “play around” with English style catharpins; work in progress. Google images not helpful either regarding my bubble in pic 3. To be continued or omitted – not so sure about this, Thanks for all of your kind remarks – as always. Cheers,
  21. Graham, Just catching up - super nice updates. Learning a lot from you and this great build. PS: Lovely detail work on your aircraft as well. Cheers,
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