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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. That is some super fiddly work at that size and it came out looking great, Danny.
  2. Piet, I believe you're right about the mine having to hit the seabed. That would make perfect sense. I was thinking of the type laid by certain surface ships and wasn't thinking about a sub moving slowly while submerged.
  3. Hmm... interesting. Wasn't the original purpose of http://threedecks.org/ ? Still.. it has promise.
  4. Tim, I agree with you except for the "first posted part". Some sellers get hit heavy with PM's and keeping certain things private (like email addys) is a good idea.
  5. No worries... it looked like you were beginning a build log.
  6. Holy cow.... that looks fantastic. I would think out the bottom to lay the mines. Those appear to be the kind that a few seconds or minutes after release, the mine is released from the carrier and floats upward while the carrier and it's weight go down to anchor on the sea floor.
  7. Nenad, Sand the deck like a madman. Use a sanding block and once you get it the way you want it, you may have to replank.. or maybe it will be perfect without replanking. Sanding solves a lot of problems..
  8. Demonburger, Do you want this moved to the Kit Logs or would you rather review the kit here and then open a proper log?
  9. Jerrod, Do a search on this forum with the word RADIO. Sort by title. You should see all the RC builds. There's also a sub-forum for RC questions, etc. in general.
  10. Where can I get a camera with that setting? If you're selling them, you'll make a fortune!!!
  11. Rad, Have a look here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/10-kit-build-logs-in-progress/ The first topics that are pinned should give you an idea. And the rest (all unpinned) are build logs. Here's the main page: http://modelshipworld.com/ with all the various sub-forums and a brief description.
  12. Looking fit and proper, Piet. Have a question.. the mines were loaded through the top doors. Were they deployed from them? Or dropped out the bottom? If out the top, were they ejected with compressed air or some other method?
  13. Rad, Welcome to MSW. How about posting an introduction here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/3-new-to-the-hobby-or-msw/ ? Also, the best way to get help is to open a build log. You'll find that you'll get help and encouragement as you go. And, you'll be helping anyone building this model after you. I did a quick search and found 9 Mayflower build logs. Is one of these by the same manufacturer as yours? You might find your answer in one of them.
  14. Sorry Augie.... hopefully you had good time watching the game anyway. And no, I didn't see it. Intentionally. Haven't watched it for years just because of the hype that surrounds it.
  15. I've become a believer in jigs... especially after seeing this. I'm looking forward to seeing your complete stern section.
  16. Richard, I'll do it the next time I set up the saw for planks. I use the setup as per the photo in the link.
  17. Bob, I have a gut feeling that you're using IE11. For copy/paste where the "paste" option doesn't show up, use Ctrl-V. Otherwise, start a topic, call it something like "Dyeing Thread"... drop one line in it about info to be copied in. This will be a placeholder and I'll copy/paste that post into it for you. That way, your name is on that post instead of mine.
  18. Bob, I think your last post about dyeing thread should be it's own topic in the rigging area. I've seen more and more posts about how to get thread colors "right" and I think your post would be a great topic starter for this. Please consider it and your follow-up testing also.
  19. Danny, That's a great idea about the zero clearance on the bed/fence. The MM saw (and I'm sure others) have the same problem. You just gave us the answer.
  20. I can't speak for others, but my featherboard is on one side of the blade (where the plank is coming off) and the fence is one the other. I move the feedstock and fence to the featherboard for cutting planks. I've done it the other way as you described and it works well also. I just like having the plank come off the blade without anything next to it. Oh... forgot... I put a piece of thin brass in the zero clearance plate to guide the plank away when the leading end gets to the rear of the blade.
  21. Richard, Think also about some featherboards similar to these: http://www.micromark.com/featherboard-and-high-fence-attachment-set,7586.html They go a long way to helping to keep fingers out of the blade as well as kickback prevention. Another accessory is make a zero-clearance plate for ripping blanks. Not necessary but nice to have.
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