Old Collingwood

19 minutes ago, Canute said:

Strong light and magnification work well. Your "force" is turning out nicely, mate.

Thanks Ken,    indeed  without both I would be in trouble  - I  put my glasses down the other day and I couldn't  find my laptop  let alone see to use it, but with my readers and magnifiers  I seen to be doing ok,    but when I have both on and at the table  if the admiral calls me  I  go   -   "What  what  - who's  there"?

OC.

Evening all, more work again  this evening  - I have made a start  on Two officers  from the French regiments,  both are assembled and awaiting painting.

One of the pics shows them against a small  tin of paint to show what scale I am working with.

OC.

I also built this  for my Admiral  - have a look  as I did some different things with the build.

OC.

I think that wood (pontos simulted decks)  or proper decking as we use in our  wood kits  can look  simply superb,   I have used both at different scales.

Scribing  especially for planes can be really useful  to open up panel lines that have been lost with sanding - or just plain missing.

OC.

I can't see most of them also  - just lots of  picture code.

OC.

Welcome to the club.

OC.

Welcome aboard Jon.

OC.

Nice clean workbench mate🙃👍

OC.

Stunning work Kevin,    those decks look loverly  made all the more so by the tennon  joints.

OC.

Evening all,  right  then  Major Baring and his steed  is painted  just needs flat coating  - but I need to wait for the weather to dry before I can sprey outdoors.

OC.

52 minutes ago, popeye the sailor said:

look'in good  

Thank you Denis.

OC.

2 hours ago, popeye the sailor said:

looking really good OC........the interior looks awesome     you're really tempting me to start the Osprey.......the interior is almost the same!

 

nicely done!

Go for it Denis  -  you know you will have an audience😉

OC.

This photo might help  - again its not mine  I got it off the net, but it does show a (slightly more gentle tuck  round to the back that would help  with the planks)    I had a similar problem  when I was working on tha same kit  about 10 years  ago  - it was a real nightmare  to get right.

OC.

Having a re-think   - if its the last frame causing the problem  with it potentialy being too far back  creating too sharp an angle, how about  adding some more wood behind the last frame/but glued to it, this would enable you to sand a more gentle profile  for the tuk, I think that would help a lot  and take away such a sharp angle.

OC.

3 hours ago, ronald305 said:

 thanks  OC 

     I do have the blocks that came with the iron  but isn't the blocks a little wide for the bend I need to make, plus the iron head is also wide I have been  using the  narrow part of the iron and sometime a  soldering  iron  shaft part and gently pushing down on the plank after they have been soaked for 12 hours over the hot part of the iron and have been using the block inverted to support the iron. I have ordered a steamer to help with the twist part of the bend but would like to solve the sharp bend problem first 

                                      Ronald 

Does it look like this  -   you could use the half moon shape part to get a tighter turn, its what I used to use  for some really tight turns.

Pic not mine.

OC.

Evening all,     right  Major Baring has recieved some paint  - just need to paint his boots and styrups.

OC.

Are you using a  "Bending Block"    with your heat Iron  for bending?    it should have come with your Iron,  it is such a useful tool  for getting tight turns with the planks.

What I used to do with mine  was to soak the plank you want to fix  - say one on each corresponding side,  then when I t feels wet enough with a bit of bend to it  - pit it over the bend in the Bending Block  and using the heat from the Iron  push down gently in the  curve of the block  till the heat/steam gently pushes the plank down into the curve.   The key heare is not to push too hard  - Just go gentle and feel the bend , it  takes  a bit of getting used to  but it does work  - I have bent a near circle using the tighter of the bends in the Block.

Give it a try.

OC.

2 minutes ago, marktiedens said:

Thanks O.C..    I think I would rather tie ratlines than rig guns.

 

 

Mark

I know, thats why I cheated on my Pearl build  - tried  but said to myself  "nah  too much hassle"    but enjoyed the ratline -ish  (tiny ish)

OC.

Now that is looking Nice  - sharp details  and you was so right to do the decks with the wood   - it really sets the ship off against your excellent painting.

OC.

That looks excellent Mark.

OC.

Looking really good.

OC.

So  I have made another start -  here is Major Baring on his horse  un painted.

He is not glued in the saddle yet so I can fiddle around with his position.

OC.

12 minutes ago, CDW said:

Please don't follow my example, Papa. I am a bad influence in the excess stash department.

You need  to invest in Ten pairs of hands so you can  "multi-multi-multi-multi  task  and build many"😁

OC.

Afternoon all,   I'm back   -  I decided to give my Chinook build a slight rest  while I do somemore work here  -  I decided to have a go at building the chap who was in overall control over the Farm  no less than  -  Major Georg von Baring, as he  stayed  "sted fast"  with his army  right through the battle for the farm.

Pic off the net  showing him on his horse.

OC.

Right then  everyone,   I'm going to put a little hold on this  - Just when it was getting interesting, as I  want to do somemore work on my Waterloo  project   - see you over there😉

OC.