scrubbyj427
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Everything posted by scrubbyj427
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Jim, sorry I should have mentioned that the ports follow the deck, if you use the square dowel for the upper sills, it should keep them parallel to the lowers but it will do you no good to use it on the vertical sills. Thanks @glbarlow for correcting me. -
Looks really good. Nice and fair. This will pay off when you plank and reveal your gunports. The laser cut pieces Chuck gives you should ensure you get perfect port openings. Just to be extra careful definitely use the square dowel between both sides to make sure upper sills are parallel.
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Concluded chapter 10, no issues, smooth sailing. The wheel may have been the trickiest part as it’s so small and fragile. Back into full swing of gun production now as I wait for chapters 11&12 to arrive. Hope to have the waist filled in this week and start slowly adding the 6 pounders as I progress on chapter 11. Thanks for checking in. JJ
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That looks just wonderful! Lovely work!
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Well done Glenn, all the hard work with the frames and sills has paid off. Your windows line up on a gentle curve and look perfect!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Ron, I’m not entirely sure on the difference but I think isopropyl is used in small quantities to “denature” pure ethanol. all I know is that it doesn’t take hours to soften titebond. Hope it helps. JJ
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Beautiful work Ron! Great idea on those cleats! That looks so good all assembled. For softening PVA, I seem to get it free very quickly with denatured alcohol, usually in minutes. JJ
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Thank you Jim. Excited to see you start laying planks down.
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That looks very nice Edward! Great job!
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Nice work Matt, I actually think you weathered it just right, it looks realistic. I couldn’t get mine to stick well enough otherwise I would have loved more rust.
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Those look really sharp Chuck, is that set a 3D printed prototype?
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Looking like you’re off to a great start Rusty! I’m really looking forward to this chapter.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I stole them out of my constitution kit! I’ve heard that some folks have made their own with their Byrnes table saw….
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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That looks Great Chuck and a huge relief as well, I’m sure. She’s coming together very nicely.
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Yes this is very clear and in my mind and they way I would approach, I know this is quite the challenge. Making lines and getting them angled right on the first try is also not easy. This looks very good.
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Thank you Waldemar, there is no urgency here, I’m just very curious to whatever trick you have discovered.
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I’m very interested in learning more about positioning things in space at multiple angles, I know when I do it, it requires multiple planes of view with several superset rotations or 3D rotate if you have a good reference.
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Excellent work. The rigging is simply amazing, this is not easy on Rhino! Where are you obtaining rigging drawings/details? Or is this pretty common for the time and ship?
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Wow! …. Just brilliant.
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HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
scrubbyj427 replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
That looks great Ron, stellar chisel work!- 122 replies
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- Euryalus
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Thank you Matt, slightly scientific but still relying on the old eye test. Thank you Fred, very much looking forward to you resuming work on your Winnie, your cheerful looks very good. Thank you Waldemar, much appreciated. Thank you Rusty, my cleaning frequency has slightly regressed to bi-weekly lol. Thank you Glenn, you’ll be there sooner than you think by the looks of it. I’ve been using your build as a “you should go back and re-do that part” or “why didn’t I do it that way” kind of guide. 😆
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Completed chapter 9 a few days ago and already onto 10. Spent a lot of time on fitting things, lots or test/sand/repeat, until it fits right . The railing was kinda tricky due to the fact that my bow is slightly out of shape from not checking/correcting this very early on but I made it work and am happy with the results. I spent a lot of time of the cat heads and trying my best to make them look identical, I even laid a batten down across them to make sure they were at the same angle, this being off would drive me nuts. the spanshackles were made from round copper wire and soldered, filed and then filed/sanded to look flat. Took a lot of care to make sure the belfry fit right, so I actually took adhesive backed sandpaper and stuck it to the part of the deck at which it would be glued down and gently sanded the deck camber into the bottom, I think it worked well. I pinned it down, it’s a certainty I will probably knock it off otherwise. Thanks for checking in. JJ ps. Please excuse my filthy model, it is an absolute sanding dust ball!
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Looks great Rusty! You’re almost there.
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- winchelsea
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