BareHook

Thanks Tim.
 
Some time later, lower gun deck partly planked >
 

 
At the outset I had determined that the ship would be "closed" ~ by which I mean that nothing below the upper gun deck would visible as, for the sake of making this a simpler build, all gunports (with lids) would be closed and only 14 guns on the upper deck, 2 on the quarter deck and the 2 bow chaser guns would be visible. Accordingly the lower deck was only partially planked as only a tiny part of that planking would be visible by peering down a couple of companionways.
 
In my opening post I neglected to say that the build is being done (as close as is possible for me) according to the plans and drawings by John McKay in Rif Winfield's "The Fifty Gun Ship". Anyone familiar with the book will be aware that the accompanying plans are at a scale of 1:96. I felt that scale was a little too small for me to work with, and while I would have been happier with a scale of 1:64 (or bigger), because of display space constraints I decided on a compromise scale of 1:80 so had the plans expanded to equate to that scale.

With a measure of reluctance, but because I've been encouraged by one of the forum moderators, I'm making an attempt at creating a build log of my ship.
I should preface this with a warning ~ and that is to point out that anyone viewing this should not expect to see the awesome build quality that can be seen in so many threads on this forum.
Apart from a very crude attempt at building an (imaginary) ship a few years ago, this is my first ever attempt at building a model of a ship that actually existed. That said, I'll point out at this stage that there are, and will be certain details of the ship that will be beyond my level of skill (and experience?) to replicate as they are shown in the plans and drawings.
There will also be some proceedures or sequences of progress that may not conform to the normal practice for a scratch build and these anomalies are the product of my lack of experience and knowledge of how to go about certain tasks.
So, please don't jump on me too hard ~ I'm doing my best!

It's close to 3 years since I started the build but there have been a few lengthy lay-off periods when nothing was done to 'Leopard', and there are no photos of the earliest stages of the build.
I'll kick this off with one of the earliest photos taken after all the bulkheads had been attached and some stiffeners added >

In this pic I had already fixed most of the lower cills of the gun ports on the lower deck and a few cills of the gun ports on the upper deck.


This pic shows some of the gun port upper cills fixed. Early in the build I decided I would form the gun ports before any hull planking was commenced as I had already seen some builds where the ports were cut out after the hull planking and that seemed like an awful lot of work that I didn't want to encounter later on.

If you look at rigging tools sold at Micromark.com or modelexpo.com, they may be similar. I've heard of some who have modified sewing needles as well to create various hooks and grabbers by glueing the point into a small wood dowel to act as a handle and trimming the thread slot at the other end in various ways.
 
Ken

Hamilton: I don't have any photos and don't have the model anymore. The Unicorn framing provided an approximation of the hull shape and in those days I wasn't quite as concerned as I would be today.
 
Back to Essex. I did a few easy things prior to planking. First, I added some additional framing at the stern to frame the doors to the quarter galleries. I'm considering showing the great cabin in some level of detail and also scratch building the quarter galleries. This framing will allow me those options down the road. Next, I painted the area of the lower deck cut outs with Pollyscale engine black. I then made and installed the sections of lower deck planking to fit the cut outs. The deck planking is holly (as will be all of the deck planking). The caulking is simulated by pencil on one edge of each plank. It's finished with Wipe On Poly. Lastly, I painted the inside and edges of the gun ports with Pollyscale AT&SF red.
 
I've decided to begin the planking with the upper outer hull. Full speed ahead!
 
Bob

Some do chemical blackening, check in the metal finishing section

Keep the faith, Sam. That's what I'm doing -- just fighting my way through.
 
I returned to the bow to make and add the bow filler blocks. While doing them, I redid the fairing and refined the shaping. I think it looks better and works better. I also made a decision with regard to the bow arrangement. I didn't feel comfortable with the kit set up of the knight heads and the bow planking. The kit shows the knight heads as stand alone items, spread wide apart and without any covering hull planking. Since they are extensions of the bollard timbers, it would seem that they would be close to the stem and the planking would cover them up through the forecastle. I decided to to follow the Takakjian drawings in AOTS which show them this way. I cut down the keel former and the bow framing parts and made the knight heads from boxwood, filed out the opening for the bowsprit and attached them to the former. I also added strips to them to aid in attaching the inner planking.
 
Now, it's time to do some planking. I just haven't decided yet which planking to start with.
 
Bob

One tip is to paint the parts or wood strips before installation whenever possible.

I'd like to thank everyone who has become involved or shown an interest in the new ESSEX kit from Model Expo.
 
Obviously as a Designer I strived to produce a kit that when completed will be a model the builder can be proud of. I believe I've achieved that as the finished product represents. Unfortunately it's become apparent that there are (for whatever reason) some parts that are incorrect in the kit as being produced. Let me state that both Model Expo and myself are fully committed to correcting this situation. When complete I will work with Model Expo to see that this does not happen again with projects I am associated with to the best of my abilities.
 
I have (just) received a complete kit as produced by Model Expo and will will be reviewing the components of it to identify and address any incorrect parts. Once I believe that I've accomplished this task it will fall into the capable hands of Model Expo to honor the purchases made.
 
That's what this thread and the task in front of me is for. 
 
To that end there are (in response to a number of requests or suggestions) a number of things that this is NOT ABOUT..........
 
This is not a re-design of the kit or an opportunity to upgrade the offering.  This is not about inclusion of different castings, blocks, line, wood stock, etc. Those components (and others) are out of my control and are the sole provence of Model Expo. I have, when asked conveyed individuals suggestions and findings to Model Expo but that is the extent of my influence.
 
Additionally I am not rebuilding ESSEX. I will be testing parts for correct size, and stock weight and inclusion. I will be cross referencing drawings and manual as necessary to make sure that all information corroborates. 
 
This is not an opportunity for a group design - ESSEX is already designed (and looks pretty good when completed). If there is a process, method, sequence or approach that you as a builder do not care for or agree with you are entitled to your opinion(s). I in no way believe I have the market cornered on what is correct (to be honest I don't believe that there is a correct way of doing things in our mutual endeavors). Everyone does things differently. The way I have offered and suggest to the builder to achieve what is in front of them is just that - a suggestion. As it is with any kit and any Designer.............
 
Lastly, this is not about assigning blame to either Model Expo or myself. Rest assured we will collectively figure out what happened.
 
I will do my very best to move expediently through the process and work with Model Expo to get things corrected as quickly as possible. 
 
Thank you for all your interest, support, suggestions, encouragement and friendship. Please keep checking back for progress and updates. 
 
This is what really makes MSW great!
 
ESSEX didn't give up without one hell of a fight at Valparaiso - neither will I.
 
Samuel Cassano, Jr. 
Designer, ESSEX
 

Thanks, John.
 
I've now added the stern frames and stern filler blocks. At the risk of sounding nit picky, this went alright, but with the prospect of trouble down the road, as a result of a few issues: first, I found the stern drawings confusing and inconsistent with the prototype photos in the manual (i went with the photos--I think); second, the frames were a little thicker than 3/16" which required some sanding to get them to fit into the spacers provided to supposedly ensure the proper spacing of the frames to allow for installation of the stern windows. I foolishly assumed that once the frames fit in the spacers that the windows would be no problem. That was a big mistake. The windows ( which are nice laser cut items) are too wide to fit between the frames. This wouldn't be a big problem, except for the fact that the frames are so thin at this scale that very little sanding is possible. When I get to window installation, I'll have to enlarge the space between the frames or scratch build new windows.
 
The filler block material is not provided, so i used some basswood I had on hand. The work is straight forward for anyone who has done it before. I didn't follow the 2 piece pattern shown in the photos, but made continuous blocks.
 
I now need to do the bow filler blocks and probably clean up the shaping of the bow as well.
 
Bob

For cutting wood here are a few shots of how I cut it



This is one of the plywood blades that I use on my 10 inch tablesaw.





The blade has no set to the teeth.





A test cut to set the thickness.





This slice is .027"





Use a push stick to feed the wood through the saw.





This is the thinnest cut I was able to make with this wood and blade combination.





You can see that this wood has been darkened by the blade because it is dull and needs to be sharpened.





Using a scraper to clean up the wood in this case the wood is Maple.









The scaper is pulled towards me in single smooth strokes.





When the scraper is sharp the wood shaves off in fine curls.





Here
you can see the transition from the burned surface to the scraped one
and the small clamp holding the wood to a smooth surface. Make sure that
the support surface stays clear of dust and shavings this is because
the wood this thin has a tendency to curl up allowing dust to stick to
the underside of the slice being scraped and the support because of
static. This would create problems getting an even thickness.





The amount of wood removed with the scraper is about .002"





The finished slice that is .75" wide and .012" thick.





The slice easily bends cold and dry around a 1/2 inch radius former.

   
Michael

Hi friends.
 
 
A. Hold  -  Lagerräume
     9 Magazine and Powder-rooms
        Lager-und Pulverkammer
 
B. Orlop  -  Unterdeck
    12 Bread-rooms
         Brot-Lagerraum
 
Regards Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  3 4

I cannot remember the details, but the various kits out there also represent different era's for the Constitution.
I think the Bluejacket kit is 1812 and is the earliest while some of the other kits are a more recent state.

All,
 
Sam and I spoke regarding the Essex - trying to get it straightened out. With regards to corrective parts, as we have done in the past, we will make the parts available free of charge once ready however, folks will need to call in / email / submit a request. We do this because some folks will inevitably take care of the issue on their own. I will publish the item number here (and on other sites) once we're ready to begin taking "orders" on the updated laser cuts - need to let Sam do the review first prior to ensure there is, in fact, an issue.   With regards to the manual, you can download the updated .pdf from our website under the documents tab: http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS2041 - that is most likely the easiest way to do it. Alternatively, you can call in for the new one once printed.   Thank you all again for your feedback, we appreciate you!   Eric

Well i've done just about all I can do until I get the sails fabricated.
The spars are ready and lots of rigging line everywhere to confuse the issue.
I finished the spars with minwax waterbase woodsheen in oak color, this is a rub-on stain/finish that I am happy with.
So far I've used waterbase finishes everywhere except some metal parts that are touched up with oil base paint. I like the low odor of the water base finishes used.
I decided to add cannon balls, bucket and tools to the battle stations (swab/worm & ram/loader).
 
I can't imagine how the full square rigged ships get done! I'm doing so much rigging prep on everything but it will be a lot easier than once the mast and spars are installed.
 
My main focus now is getting my sailmaker going on the sails, I need them complete before I install the standing rigging, as I plan to thread the fore sails hanks onto the stays to save me having to sew them on while on the ship.
 
Ken

Current price for AVS seems high, I can't remember what I paid 2 years ago, but Model Expo constantly has sales, you can even ask if they'll price break, you never know but they have excellent cust service and a history of working well with MSW.
 
Either kit is nice, Syren obviously more challenging and will take longer to build.
 
The AVS is a ficticious ship based opon the design of that era where the Syren has actual history.
 
I preferred ficticious AVS myself, so I could name it after my daughter and didn't have the pressure to maintain historical accuracy
 
Ken

Rowan,
Check out this site/practicum, I didn't use the bob hunt.
 
http://www.modelboatyard.com/avs_articles.html
 
Ken

I started with it, the first chapter is a free sample, but then diverged to The Model Boatyard practicum by John H. Earl which is a free download http://www.modelboatyard.com/avs_articles.html due to being unable to afford the Lauck Street one.
 
It is more general as a guideline, where the lauck street is very specific, but I have done ok with all the support at this website.
 
Ken
 
P.S. Please be sure to start a build log for it. There are a lot of modelers on this site who have already built this kit and can provide tons of info and suggestions. (i.e. The blocks for the cannon rigging are too big and should be replaced with 1/8" blocks)

Hello friends,
new pictures of the construction ,  BHR model.
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  33

What to do with an empty thread spool? Well, here's one item I was able to make from one - one of the two capstans I will need for my anchor hoy. The picture shows the three main stages of transformation. Sorry, the finished item will have to wait until later this month when I have it finished.
 
The small spool was one from Bluejacket and since I didn't have a suitable piece of round stock in my dowel stores, the spool worked out well! The only prep work was gluing in a suitable dowel to use as the center and for holding by the lathe chuck.
 
I turned the capstan (and its separate base) in about a half hour, give or take. It was turned on my PSI Turncrafter Pro Midi Lathe.  This will be the after capstan and I will turn another one similar (but without capstan bar holes) for the forward capstan.
 
Right now I have on hand about a half dozen small empty spools and several larger ones. Glad I kept them!

Hi.
Having seen a few people on this site put LED's into there models I thought it would be nice to have a flickering candle lamp for the period ship.
Its cost is low and the effect is real.
The brightness and the duration of the flickering are randon on each candle.
I found this on the Arduino page and its is freeware IE no lisence to use.
I used surface mount LED's as they are very small and easy to put into almost any scale of model.
Step by Step instructions below.
 
Equipment needed :-
 1  Arduino nano chip. Source  Ebay  261232492487
Very thin wire (Copper will hold its shape after bending). Insulated or un insulated will do.
6  SMT 1206 White LED’s . Source  Ebay   121077374673 or you could use 3mm LED’s (much bigger).
6  Resisters 820 Ohms.  Grey, Red, Brown.
1  Battery holder for 4 AAA batteries.
4  Batteries AAA  Rechargeable.
1  Simple On/Off switch.
 
1 orange shopping bag. For the colour.
Computer with USB.
Total cost £18
 
Step 1 Download the Arduino  software from :- http://www.arduino.cc/  Second Tab click the Download.
A little way down the page click on Windows Installer and it will install the Environment.
Now click the Getting started to the Right of the Windows Installer.
Agree with the download (varies with Windows version) and click to install.
It will ask if you want to install the drivers Yes install.
Next click the Chip you are using ”Arduino Nano”. There are two types check the type you have.
 
Run the Arduino software and use the information on selecting the Arduino Nano.
A small box area will appear. Copy and paste the Code below into the white area.
Next plug in the Arduino Nano into the USB and the computer will find the Arduino Nano.
Now under File in the Arduino Environment select File in the Top left corner move down to Upload and click.
The Arduino should flicker when uploading. And the Arduino Environment will display any messages relating to the uploading. You may need to change the COM port to get a successful upload.
That’s the programming Done.
Step 2.
The Arduino Nano Chip Has no Headers soldered in place.  This makes it easy for us to connect the LED and Power.
Refer to picture.
Connect the + on the battery box to the Switch
Connect the + from the switch to Pin No 27
Connect the Ground from the battery Box to Pin No 29
Now solder a resister into Pin’s numbers. 6.8.9.12.13. and 14.
Next you solder the SMT LED’s to the Wire.
You can test each one as you complete the soldering by connecting the Anode to the 5 volt power supply. And the cathode to the Unconnected en of a resister.
With the battery on the connected LED should flicker.
Repeat the same for all 6 LED’s.
Next we tear off strips of the Orange bag and wrap it around the LED. Do not buy Orange LED as the effect is not the same.
Mount the LED inside lanterns around the ship. Careful planning will hide all the wires.
The Anode of each resister can be connected to the same wire. Common Power.
The LED’s and wire can be built into the model as it’s rare for a Led to fail.
The Arduino Nano and the Battery box can be hidden in the base.
 
Code Below this line. ******************************************************
 
/*http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php/topic,7115.0.html
 * randomly flickering LEDs
 */
 
int ledPin[] = {
  3,5, 6, 9, 10, 11};              // pwm pins only
int ledState[6];                 // last state of each led
long randNumber;
 
void setup() {
 
    pinMode(ledPin[0], OUTPUT);   // Just tells the Arduino that this is a output
    pinMode(ledPin[1], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[2], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[3], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[4], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[5], OUTPUT);
 
  randomSeed(analogRead(0));     // seed the random generator with noise from unused pin
    ledState[0] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[1] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[2] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[3] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[4] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[5] = random(20, 201);
}
 
void loop(){

    analogWrite(ledPin, ledState);     // set the pwm value of that pin determined previously
    randNumber = random(-70, 71);            // generate new random number and add that to the current value-40,41
    ledState += randNumber;               // that range can be tweaked to change the intensity of the flickering
    if (ledState > 200) {                 // clamp the limits of the pwm values so it remains within
      ledState = 200;                     // a pleasing range as well as the pwm range
    }
    if (ledState < 10) {
      ledState = 10;
    }
  }
  delay(100);    // the delay between changes
}
 

 
 
Any questions ..PLease ASK.
 
Regards Antony.

Well, finally got back to some modeling! Sort of took the summer off to keep the kids busy.
 
I completed the Bowsprit, Jibboom, Mast, Topmast but still need to fabricate the rest of the spars
 
I installed the Bowsprit with the lower standing rigging and footropes and started on the standing rigging for the mast.
 
Next is: complete the spar fabrication, install the Jibboom, complete standing/running rigging setup, fabricate sails.
 
Tricky part is getting the mainsail installed with gaff and boom: before, after, or ??? the completed standing rigging. 

The fore mast is rigged.  The lower dead eye lanyards are not yet glued in place.  I will wait until the rest of the mast is rigged.  Then I can use the lanyards to make any final adjustments to ensure the mast is set properly both starboard/port and fore/aft.
 
The lanyard on the right of the 2nd picture is setup as it will look when finished.

The Light bulb (starts) to come on!!
 
After several models and practice attempts to have ratlines look like ratlines rather than Halloween decorations.  (for a while I thought I would specialize in ghost ships  
 
I have finally honed in on a method of doing ratlines which I wanted to share because it gives a great result and is easier, less stressful and faster than what I had been doing.  
 
I have not invented anything new, simply used the bits and pieces from various (too many to attribute) sources.    Many of the pieces are on this website, so thank you to all who have posted these helpful techniques.  It may work for you in full or in part.
 
Please feel free to modify this technique to work for you and if you can post any changes or whatever your experience with it is.
 
It actually seems simple.
 
1) Make a card template with the horizontal rats and vertically angled shrouds 
 
Mark or color code the card into sections  defining the order to do the ratlines:  1st group(three rats) the Upper, lower and middle ratline,  2nd group (two rats) , split those areas so you have two more rats at approx 1/4 and 3/4 of the way up the shroud   3rd group (4 rats) ; split the quarters and so on so eventually you have ratted every other row.  nth group (double the amount of rats as the last group)   This shows trends towards spiderwebs before they show up.   THere is a great picture of color coding the horizontal rats in this forum. (thanks )
 
 
I pin it to the shrouds with some mini clothespins.  I may experiment with threading it through the back, around a shroud and back through the card in a few places. 
 
 
2) Use a needle to thread the outer and first shroud.  Use PLENTY of string.   Trying to tie knots with minimal string leads to un-aligning the ratlines.  For the cost of an extra spool of thread, it's worth it!
 
3) Tie a hitch (the kind where the rope goes around the shroud the same way for both loops) around the first inner shroud but NOT the outer shroud (you may need to adjust it to avoid spiders.   AT this point you have the thread going through the outer shroud and a hitch on the first inner shroud. 
 
4) Thread the needle through the next shroud and tie another hitch.  and so on : at the end, Do NOT tie the outer shroud.
 
5) Make any minor adjustments on the inner shrouds.   Dab with diluted white glue.
 
6) Adjust the outer shrouds.  Follow the same general row sequence of splitting the shroud length in half for each
 
7) Use a Cow hitch, having the loop go from back (inboard) to front (outboard), over the ratline, then inboard again.  This order gives a nice finished look on the rat/shroud and hides the bitter end after cutting the excess line
 
8) tighten the ratline by pulling inboard NOT fwd or aft; so the end to be cut is somewhat hidden behind the shroud and the shroud stays aligned while tightening the rat.
 
9) Dab diluted glue on the outer shroud knots
 
10) cut the ends.
 
 
Advantages:  
 
Using a needle :
Tying knots with the thread in a needle is much easier and faster than with fingers and tweezers.
The needle makes it easier to keep the ratlines horizontal
Threading the rat through the shroud provides just enough tension to hold the ratline taunt while you tie a knot
Threading the shroud provides horizontal stability
 
Leaving the outer shrouds for last,.
 Ability to make final adjustments on the outer shrouds.
 
 
 
 
Ira
 
 

I've started using Poster Tape to temporarily hold small items in place.  It's a two-sided removable tape that doesn't leave any residue, and can be stuck to paper with no rips or tears when removing.  Very useful little tool!
 

 
Frank
 
 

I read the O'Brian series over a period of 5 years. Dragged out to last as long as possible. I gave them to my wife and she read them all finishing the last one a year ago with much regret that there were no more. We decided to put them all in a box and hide them away for five years and then start again..Only four more years to go..!
 
I am particularly impressed with O'Brian's grasp of the period. I'm a bit of a collector and I have a letter written in 1808 by a Royal Navy officer on the 38 gun 5th rate HMS Lively (which was briefly one of Aubrey's ships in the series.) The letter was written to the man's father in Scotland while the ship was docked in Lisbon. It's a long handwritten letter and amongst many other things, mentions politics, prize money, pirates and even a fire in the coal hold. I understand O'Brian used a lot of contemporary ship's logs and letters to frame his stories, reading this letter one could certainly see why.
 
Here's exactly what's written about the fire. 
 
"On Friday last, a dinner and ball were given on board, a day a little remarkable also on account of the risk we ran of being blown up: for as we were at breakfast the drum beat to quarters and we understood there was a fire forward. It was discovered by the smoke bursting from the coal hole and was immediately messaged to the 1st Lt. and was soon extinguished, having burned through the thickness of one stanchion. The coal hole is divided from the fore magazine only by a thin partition. After flogging the man who had been down there last and thro whose carelessness the accident had happened, the captain expressed his satisfaction at the general reliance and alertship with which every man attended to his duty and provided against accidents of the sort happening again by forbidding any man going down without a midshipman present."   
 
 
It's a fascinating read and sometime when I'm not so busy I'll do some research into the writer.
 
Dan.