vossiewulf
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Everything posted by vossiewulf
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I do it bit by bit, glue down a section an inch or two long and repeat. I don't edge glue, only putting glue on the bottom of the planks. Also the best method is to add glue in dots, don't try to smear it around, and the dots should be small enough that you never get squeezeout- if you do, you used too much. -
The only answers are either to reduce clamp pressure, spread that pressure over a larger area, or use a harder wood for the strakes. Sometimes just gluing a small piece of 1/32" or 1/16" latex rubber on the clamp jaws evens out the pressure enough to prevent significant denting. If that isn't enough, you need some kind of small cauls to spread the pressure over a larger area. A fancy-dancy caul will be slightly concave so when a single center clamp bears down, it ends up very evenly spreading the pressure. But this problem is also why I use CA instead, I've never had any fun figuring out clamping solutions for complex multiple curved pieces. With CA the only clamps in use are fingers 1-10.
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Mark was referring to this. No it's not bad
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If you wish Keith, you can go to a considerably higher level of gloss if you shift at this point to automotive finish buffing compounds. You don't need an electric buffer, they work fine with some elbow grease. There are many different "cuts" however from pretty rough to final polish, if you want to try this ask your local auto supply place which to use for final buffing. I've done some very high gloss finishes this way, they look great with beautiful natural woods like you have here.
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Have had company in town for the last week, little time to do anything, I just finished the two anchors. I ended up rigging both of them up, although I liked the idea of hanging one from a cathead I keep having to remind myself that I'm doing this for the first time and I don't need a lose anchor floating around waiting to be ripped off while I thrash with full rigging for the first time. I made two brass cleats for the cathead hauls, I think that's what they're called, and set them at an angle as seen below because one in line with the cathead would have been rendered too small. So I went once again with the what would I do if it was my boat method, and made reasonably big cleats and set them at an angle. I made them out of two pieces as that seemed the simplest method with a cleat this small. I'm also spending time fiddling with the lines to get them to drape correctly as if they had real weight/stiffness ratios.
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One thing to consider with handles Gaetan is how well it locates the point of the blade and its rotation for you. A curved and fully rounded handle can be quite comfortable, but it's hard to know exactly where the point is just by the grip. That's why I always make the back edge of the handle straight, and perfectly in line with the point of the blade, and also with slight flats on the side, these help you intuitively feel where the edge is pointed. With a fully rounded handle, you can be holding the knife slightly twisted in your hand without noticing. But in the end, handles are very personal things, make what feels right for you.
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MONTAÑES by Amalio
vossiewulf replied to Amalio's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
You can't fool me! He's just hiding the other six arms behind him! -
Tying hooks to blocks - Tips??
vossiewulf replied to daddytotwo's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Looking at your pic, one more suggestion since your hooks aren't like mine, where I'm making them out of wire and can slide the loop onto the hook after the loop is made. In your case it looks like you have premade hooks. In that case, go ahead and make the loops as I've described, but once the loop is made and seized, add thin super glue to the top of the loop so it will soak in, and after it dries, cut it with a sharp knife right at the top of the loop. Pry it open a bit to add the hook, then use CA to glue the cut ends back together. -
Tying hooks to blocks - Tips??
vossiewulf replied to daddytotwo's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
This is the little jig I have been using, it works well enough. The little prongs that are holding the block are carbon fiber rod, I don't know of anything else stiff enough at this scale. Also I use fly-tying thread that is very thin for the seizing. Add the hook after the loops are made. In this case the hooks were pretty large as these are the catfall blocks. First step is putting a tiny drop of CA on one side of the loop, and using that to attach the fly-tying thread about in the middle of the length of the thread. Once that sets up, wrap both ends of the thread around the loop a couple times, and pull tight to bring the stropping together at the bottom, this forms the loop. Glue it again with CA. Cut off one end of the thread at that point, and continue wrapping with the remaining thread until it looks correctly seized. Glue one last time and then cut off the excess. I'm putting another example below, of one of the anchor buoys I made that shows what the loop should look like before you start seizing.
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For all those who use yellow glue, I suggest you try Luthier Mercantile International's glue. It is excellent wood glue, but has an additional feature needed by instrument makers who can't afford a single spot of glue anywhere: it contains a fluorescent dye that reacts to a UV light. So all you need to do is buy a small black light, and shine it over surfaces and any glue spots will be immediately visible, and in a case like Dr. PS has there'd be no guessing, you could see exactly whether you have glue present or not.
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Unless you scrape deep enough to remove everything the glue penetrated, then yes you are likely to have uneven staining results.
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Shop Safety and Oops Repairs
vossiewulf replied to BETAQDAVE's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Totally agree. Let it bleed a bit and then rinse out with water, dry it, put down a bead of CA and close the wound with your other hand. If you do it right, it will heal very quickly and you probably won't even be able to see the scar. I have lots of scars on my hands, but none that are noticeable since I started using CA to close the dings. -
I've been wondering about boats on cutters, considering their role they'd have to have had boats, but like the forward gunports there really doesn't seem to be enough room to keep one other than on stern davits, but I don't see stern davits on the contemporary models. I had concluded the standard procedure must have been to tow a boat. And I agree with others that you could call her done after you have the anchors on, she's a very fine model as is.
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Solvaset and Microset are both basically weak concentrations of acetic acid (vinegar) and pretty much identical, although I tend to use Microset as it's cheap enough to not spend time experimenting with making my own. I've never known Microsol to do much of anything useful, it's the acetic acid in Microset that makes the decals flexible to conform to underlying surface. And I agree with others that the decals on the Crusader look great, very nice job.
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Nice job on the cross section Michael, it will result in lots of questions from anyone with curiosity. Also your Wasa is one of the better ones I've seen, and in particular I find your painting of all the stern figures to be much more plausible than others I've seen, which lean toward colors that are considerably brighter than any that were likely to have been available at the time.
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Nice job with the rib tapes, not something most modelers know to do.
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Thanks Pat, makes sense now. I haven't seen real detail about how anchors were released and stowed, what I've found in Seamanship discusses ship movements and actions of the ship, but not the details of what happened with the anchor. I am thinking that the cat hook would have to be removed from it, and then the served rope was released at the same time as any other lashings that held the anchor in place. Is that correct?
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Thanks again Gregory. However, like you, I have no idea how that works Thanks Jud, interesting to know.
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I thought I had read that section pretty closely but obviously not closely enough. Thanks, that makes logical sense now, if it was earlier in the build I would have added a cleat like that.
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Cleaning Small parts prior to blackening
vossiewulf replied to src's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Yeah, that's what I did at first too, as it's logical. I'm just saying I've actually gotten better results by dabbing it on by q tip, doesn't make any sense but it has consistently done better than dipping. -
Had I been slightly more experienced and seen this problem earlier, that is what I would have done: add a bar like that to each side of the windlass and then hung the coils of one cable from the arbor "clutch". Thanks for that idea. I forgot to ask before, what pray tell is a cat quick release toggle? I actually have been wondering how in fact the cat hook was unhooked from the anchor.
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Looks fine Jo, but also at this stage if you don't like it, cut a strip of wood and glue it to the bulkhead edge and/or add more balsa and resand it. None of this will be seen, so you can freely revise as you wish until you're happy. People regularly overshoot a bit and use filler or more wood to build back up before finalizing. BTW you've done very well to get past the first stages that many people without much experience making things find very intimidating. You've kept the courage up and moved forward and now your little Il Leudo looks exactly like 100 other boats being built on this site right now, so call those days seized. Make sure you keep that faith when you first start planking
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I have said that to myself about your build Sigh. Now I have to figure out how to make a tiny brain knot or whatever that's called at the end of the fluke Thanks, I think...
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Thanks Gregory! I guess I'm back to turns on the windlass on both sides, and probably hanging the port one from the cathead.
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