vossiewulf
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Everything posted by vossiewulf
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Someone else with much more knowledge would have to confirm but I think the square mizzen topsail over a lateen-rigged course places it in the late 1600s/early 1700s. At least the development sequence I remember is lateen course > lateen course + square topsail > Lateen course with no sail ahead of the mast + square topsail > Loose foot gaff course + square topsail > Spanker boom added, spanker + square topsail.
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I would contact them, as the standing authority for lighthouses they're most likely to have plans, even if they're not publicly offering them on their site. And wouldn't enough good photographs serve the purpose? If you know the height of the lighthouse from standard data, you could scale everything from good quality photos.
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I just typed "Scotland Lighthouse Authority" into Google and it returned the Northern Lighthouse Board. They don't seem to have plans, but they have photographs and information about all lighthouses in Scotland.
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New ( I think.. ) Dremel
vossiewulf replied to Gregory's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Welcome Toni, if you get a micromotor you'll indeed really be pleased with the purchase. They're much smaller, lighter, more powerful, higher RPM, and much quieter than Dremels with easily an order of magnitude less runout. -
With 3D printing, I'm still waiting for a photolithographic (laser) machine that seems to work consistently much cheaper than they are today. About the only one that seems to work well is the Formlabs 2 and it is $3500. I keep looking at reviews of much cheaper ones, but they all sound like a lot of frustration and not much good printing. The extrusion machines can try to make thinner layers, but they have fundamentally lower detail and still come out with visible layers and an uneven surface. I used to be a 3D artist in the games industry, so I'm lucky in that I wouldn't have to learn 3d modeling from scratch, I can already model anything and I keep myself reasonably active with it. So actually if anyone is dying for some modeling work that wouldn't take 1000 hours, I might be able to help. First up on the printer would probably be some of my Battletech models
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Yeah, agreed that brass output is more aesthetically pleasing and why we like heft I don't know but we do. But the subject was need a cheap way to add guns to a build. At least people should remember that they could turn beautifully detailed cannon for an entire Victory build for about $5 in acrylic rod.
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I've wondered why people don't use acrylic rod to scratch guns. It's cheaper and easier to turn than brass and holds at least as much detail, and is indistinguishable from brass once painted.
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New ( I think.. ) Dremel
vossiewulf replied to Gregory's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Micromotors are small brushless high-torque rotary tools. -
He said, tapping his foot impatiently.
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New ( I think.. ) Dremel
vossiewulf replied to Gregory's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
That's getting close to micromotor size, that's nice. Now if they could just make them brushless and use rare earth magnets for the torque... I seriously thought 12 years ago when I bought my micromotor that the technology would get less expensive and filter down to Dremel within a decade. Instead, micromotors have gotten relatively much more expensive for reasons I don't understand. The setup I have literally costs twice as much now as it did 12 years ago in a period of never more than 3% inflation. Guess we have to hope the Chinese will make some reasonable-quality micromotors or Dremel figures out how to make one at reasonable cost. In the meantime, this 2050 looks like a good choice if it has enough torque for carving away at wood. -
I don't have OCD, I just have an uncontrollable urge to make sure everything is perfectly right and straight and aligned at all times. Totally different!
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Thank god, I was feeling seriously inadequate. There was a build log for a guy who built a very nice, coppered, and highly detailed model of the USS Kearsarge in three months, and I thought that was crazy. What I was seeing here was super crazy
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In case you don't know, you'll need a couple shallow-curve carving gouges for the hull, at least if the bulkheads are part of the solid hull, and some wood rasps will also help remove the excess wood quickly. When you get close, some curved and straight scrapers can remove wood pretty quickly with good control.
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Your first post was Jan.16 and nine days later you have an almost completed admiralty model with fantastic joinery. I've decided you don't have 8 arms, you have at least 16, with four independently-operating heads. Seriously that's amazing.
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If they haven't thought of it yet, @Chuck and Mr. Watton should think about either entirely merging or at least synergizing their operations, with Chuck supplying certain fittings/rigging line/wood upgrades etc. But a single model company with kits designed by Chuck and Chris? Sign me up
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That's going to put serious stress on just about any wood object, please don't leave any good musical instruments in your cellar, either. You don't need to close off everything, just get a humidifier with an automatic setting so it turns on whenever the humidity drops below a set point. With your summer humidity, I'd set it to 50%, few things have a problem with a 20-25% humidity change over the year. I had one at a previous house that I bought on Amazon for about $150. I had to fill it with water every day which was a bit of a pain, but it was better than damage to my wood stuff.
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As others are saying above, cracks appearing in wood objects is always a moisture problem, either the humidity where it is stored is varying over a wide range or pieces of wood used in construction were not fully seasoned and stable. If it's a humidity problem, as others noted a humidifier is the solution. If it's because not fully seasoned (dried) wood was used, there wouldn't be much you could do other than rip that wood out. And sorry you're having this problem, that's a sad thing to happen to a pretty model.
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The model of French frigate La Legere 1682
vossiewulf replied to woodeater's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Interesting article, and either written in excellent English or translated by a skilled translator. Unfortunately I don't have the knowledge to judge your assertion about the Russian La Legere model being the original constructor's model, but it seems plausible as I read it. -
Congrats on on being ready to make sawdust! I'm looking forward to this, very pretty ship.
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I'm kinda with Dowmer that that hook looks a little too light. Any chance you could find a size between this and the one you thought was too bulky? However, only ship model people might notice, so it may not be worth fiddling with.
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More tools - Luthier, jeweler, fly-tying
vossiewulf replied to vossiewulf's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I am the angel of temptation, bow before my ability to cause marital strain Actually I am in fact trying to help people by providing solutions to some problems that they're probably not familiar with because they're not someone like me who trolls through catalogs and sites for all sorts of industrial/professional suppliers. And anyone else is welcome to post things they find, too. Bob, I have one of those too and I thought about making it into a hand clamp, but to do so I put leather over the teeth on the jaws, and that was a problem because much of the gripping power comes from those teeth, not how tight you can twist the handle. In other words it works well as a hand clamp, but only for things that don't require too much force to hold. The jeweler's wedge hand clamps can grip much harder. -
More tools - Luthier, jeweler, fly-tying
vossiewulf replied to vossiewulf's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Jeweler's hand clamp. They come in several varieties and sizes, none more than $15 or so. This one is about 2" across and can handle a depth of about 5/8", so it can hold on to reasonably-sized parts. And it can either hold on gently or with a deathgrip depending on how hard you tap the wedge in. It's very good for filing brass/metal pieces and knife and carving work. Only things I did to this one were 1) filing the top so it made a flat surface when clamped on small things, and 2) disc-sanded a flat into the wedge piece as otherwise it might drop out and roll all the way across the floor, not that I would know.
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Cutting Planks
vossiewulf replied to sfotinos's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Bringing this back as I don't see what I use, which are small disc sander mandrels for rotary tools. They're better than a full disc sander as you use finer grits and you can also cut two angles at once. I use mine in a micromotor but they will work with any rotary tool that can handle a 1/8" bur. These work extremely well for me, and are quick too.
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I agree with you on using walnut for deck furniture, its grain creates scale gouges in the surface that are three inches wide and a foot long. I don't understand why kit manufacturers use any open grain wood, especially for deck fittings. I tossed all the deck parts from my LN and scratched everything from boxwood.
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