vossiewulf
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Everything posted by vossiewulf
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Looks great Dan, especially the windlass. Very nice work.- 87 replies
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- Lady Nelson
- Amati
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Called 1-2-3 blocks because that's their dimensions, one inch by two by three. They're standard machining setup tools with precision ground 90 degree angles and dimensions.
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Byrnes Table Saw on Ebay UK
vossiewulf replied to No Idea's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
If she's really turned a corner and Byrnes products are going to be available again, it would be nice if say the NRG sent her a congratulations card on behalf of all the modelers at MSW. -
I hate that moment when I realize my cunning plan is not in fact cunning after all.
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The planks above the wales have to turn a pretty sharp curve into the above-water bluff part of the bow. From the wales down the lines are pretty fine and there isn't much bending.
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I wish I had better advice, but I have yet to make coils for belaying pins myself so haven't yet figured out what my plan A would be. But I have faith you'll figure it out
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I'm never surprised when I have to go to plan B. I'm just glad when it stops there and I don't end up at like plan D
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If wood is breaking before making the bend, it's not hot enough. Bending wood is a matter of getting it hot enough that lignin plasticizes and it doesn't really matter which way you get it hot, you just need to get it to that temperature. Steaming is good because it gets the wood uniformly up to boiling temp, but you can use an iron or a heat gun.
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Thanks Dan! It's the C3 SIEG 7x14 lathe. It's basically the same as the lathe I have except it's newer, has a somewhat more powerful motor, and has a bed that's 4" longer. Long enough to turn a decent mainmast between centers, I'm really not confident I could do a good job with the top turning free.
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- lady nelson
- victory models
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Thanks Pat! The lathe was packed pretty well. I'm guessing it took a pretty significant drop onto concrete to rip the electronics box off like that. But thankfully looking at it it otherwise seems well, although obviously I can't run it to do thorough tests. But I am less than happy that I have to repair something that happened before I took possession of it, and I'm going to mention that to Little Machine Shop. I still have to replace my mill that died and I was assuming I'd buy the Hi-Torque LMS mill, but this hasn't encouraged me.
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- lady nelson
- victory models
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Just FYI for anyone following, I managed to injure my back early last week and have been mostly bedridden since. It is getting better, slowly. Also I am kind of stuck on the Lady Nelson, because of the tight fit of the jibboom I will need to rig the forestay before mounting the jibboom, which means I need to make the mainmast first. I decided to replace my 7x10 lathe with a 20 year newer 7x14 lathe so I could turn the mainmast for Lady Nelson between centers, as well as accommodating the need to also turn much longer yards and masts in the future. But of course there have been delays. Specifically the lathe arrived with the electronics box having been ripped off in transit, nice. So I am waiting for a wholly new electronics box from Little Machine Shop to repair the lathe so I can turn the mast and get back to making progress. Hopefully between back and lathe I will be on the positive side of things by late next week.
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Yeah but simulating wood with paint is a whole thing in and of itself, requiring at least two colors (one translucent) for best results and doing that without clogging the sheave holes would be a problem on smaller blocks.
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I'm not sure how you're supposed to get anything approaching a smooth curve on the planks with bulkheads that far apart. With a closed ship you can solve a problem like that with balsa filler blocks that you fair along with the bulkheads. But this is an open boat where there is nowhere to hide filler blocks. Just be aware that's going to be a challenge and it's understandable if you struggle to get smooth curves between the bulkheads.
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Features like that are highly likely to be embedded in the forum application they're using and are therefore not changeable except with coding customization which is I'm sure beyond the budget of MSW.
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Hello from Calgary, Alberta, Canada
vossiewulf replied to AboveTheWaterLine's topic in New member Introductions
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If you're not staining the hull, when you lay the tape to do the white again, before spraying the white, seal the tape edge with a light coat of lacquer (or something else clear that's compatible with the paints you're using) first. That should stop the bleeding at the edges, it really helps to seal like that on open-grained wood.
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Your RC experience will help, you'll have most of the tools and skills needed already.
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You need to use a primer first on brass. And even then you need to be done bending/manipulating the parts because even with priming, they will shed their paint and primer if bent. An alternative that is somewhat more durable is using a brass blackening agent.
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I use CA for everything, I don't have the patience to wait for titebond. CA can be used very neatly (very very little is needed compared to aliphatic resin) with zero squeezeout, leaving very clean surfaces to be sanded. Also, never use it from the bottle, leave the bottle in the refrigerator where it will stay good indefinitely. Go to Amazon and get tattoo ink cups for very little money and half fill those when you're ready to glue. Glue with purchased glue applicators or just a piece of wire wrapped around a dowel.
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scissors, shears, cutters for rigging
vossiewulf replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I am mostly ambidextrous with tools and I too get annoyed that my nice scissors won't cut right in my left hand -
I recommend Iwata airbrushes. They're not cheap but my consistent experience with tools of all kinds is you get what you pay for. If you want a permanent solution to airbrushing issues, get an Iwata.
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Good luck, that's an ambitious project And....
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