vossiewulf

Yeah but simulating wood with paint is a whole thing in and of itself, requiring at least two colors (one translucent) for best results and doing that without clogging the sheave holes would be a problem on smaller blocks.

I'm not sure how you're supposed to get anything approaching a smooth curve on the planks with bulkheads that far apart. With a closed ship you can solve a problem like that with balsa filler blocks that you fair along with the bulkheads. But this is an open boat where there is nowhere to hide filler blocks. Just be aware that's going to be a challenge and it's understandable if you struggle to get smooth curves between the bulkheads.

Features like that are highly likely to be embedded in the forum application they're using and are therefore not changeable except with coding customization which is I'm sure beyond the budget of MSW.

If you're not staining the hull, when you lay the tape to do the white again, before spraying the white, seal the tape edge with a light coat of lacquer (or something else clear that's compatible with the paints you're using) first. That should stop the bleeding at the edges, it really helps to seal like that on open-grained wood.

Your RC experience will help, you'll have most of the tools and skills needed already.

You need to use a primer first on brass. And even then you need to be done bending/manipulating the parts because even with priming, they will shed their paint and primer if bent. An alternative that is somewhat more durable is using a brass blackening agent.

I use CA for everything, I don't have the patience to wait for titebond. CA can be used very neatly (very very little is needed compared to aliphatic resin) with zero squeezeout, leaving very clean surfaces to be sanded. Also, never use it from the bottle, leave the bottle in the refrigerator where it will stay good indefinitely. Go to Amazon and get tattoo ink cups for very little money and half fill those when you're ready to glue. Glue with purchased glue applicators or just a piece of wire wrapped around a dowel.

I am mostly ambidextrous with tools and I too get annoyed that my nice scissors won't cut right in my left hand

I recommend Iwata airbrushes. They're not cheap but my consistent experience with tools of all kinds is you get what you pay for. If you want a permanent solution to airbrushing issues, get an Iwata.

Good luck, that's an ambitious project And....

I would use a spray finish, not a brushed finish, the brushed finish is going to smear the graphite. I would suggest a nice satin lacquer. That will prevent the deck from being stained, but I don't think it needs to be.

Excellent progress Chris!

Um I understand closing it out here, but I'll echo others who requested you do a build log of sorts for the repair, I would be very interested in following how you handle that mess

Very nice work Linus! I may want to take a turn at 1/700 too at some point, I know where I'll go to look on Youtube when I do.

Thanks Chris, I appreciate the kind words Keep in mind with thing like serving the stropping, I have like 500 fewer blocks to do than you do! And yes I am definitely enjoying getting up every morning and going to my workshop instead of dealing with crisis number ten thousand for Visa. I wish I was as far along as you, I'm nowhere near taking on Victory yet. Anyway, you're doing a great job with your Victory, keep it up I will be watching to see how you do with the serving.

My understanding was that they primarily used red ochre, which was about the cheapest paint color you could get. That's why I chose more of a brick red than a crimson red that you see on some ships. I don't understand the crimson reds, that would have been a pretty expensive paint at the time (as far as I know, which is admittedly not very far).

Thanks Chris! I only have what's in my build log. I've just gotten started on the rigging so all I've done so far is experiment with the Syren machine in making two fully-served jibboom guys and some ancillary rigging like the guns and the anchors. I can report that it's possible to serve line with 14/0 fly tying thread and it looks good, but it's slow going considering how thin the thread is. I tried some 6/0 thread to see if it would go faster and it did, but I didn't like the final result as much. Your mileage may vary, buy several different brown and black threads in different sizes and experiment, see what you like best.

Also, you can use small scale carbon fiber rods for doweling. Obviously, they're quite strong for their size. I use .020, .030, and .040" rods for that purpose.

Raising the grain is a small price for a good bend and can be quickly corrected either before or after you get the plank on. But basically it's an issue of getting the lignin in the wood up to the temp at which it plasticizes, you can do it with hot water or a heat gun or even a hair dryer, see Chuck Passaro's planking tutorials, he just uses a hair dryer.

Good, sounds like Chuck helped you work out the kinks. As for the serving, I am using 14/0 fly-tying thread at 1:64 and it looks pretty good. I think you should be using something similar at 1:72. Take a look here for fly-tying thread. The specific one I am using is the Gordon Griffith's Sheer Ultrafine Thread. Below is a thimble with fully served line as it's coming off my Syren machine.

I would reach out to Chuck if I were you, sounds like something went wrong when assembling the machine. I recently got one and it's working ok for me.

Congratulations, very nice job! The Bounty launch sounds like a good first step into planking.

Thanks guys, I appreciate it Intead of more masting and rigging, I remembered I hadn't dealt with the swivel guns so I stopped to do that. First was mounting the pedestals (?) they mount on. This was somewhat fiddly work because of the changing sheer line curve and the tilt of the rails resulted in each one having to be fit individually to ensure they're perpendicular to the waterline. Which was a slight problem too, as the plans show the knightheads should also be perpendicular to the waterline whereas I unfortunately made them perpendicular to the rail. Now I have the pedestals and the knightheads pointing in two different directions which is annoying but nothing I can do about it now, getting the knightheads out at this point would be hard. The pedestals were reinforced with carbon fiber rod dowels. Here you can see the discrepancy between the knightheads and the pedestals. Also, I once again used the Faber Castell markers instead of black paint, which was very convenient. I also couldn't stand the swivel guns that came with the Lady Nelson kit, they're really not very good. I did a lot of searching for alternatives but eventually bit the bullet and just ordered a VM Sherbourne kit as that has accurate guns and PE gun mounts. So now I have a Sherbourne kit sans swivel guns for cheap if anyone wants it Oddly, the plasticine clay seems to have removed the blackening from the PE swivel gun handles that were attached to each gun. I'll have to touch them up once they're mounted. I painted the 3D printed guns themselves with Tamiya flat black. Tamiya flat paints have an interesting quality where if you rub them down post application, they get more satin and almost glossy. So if you take something like one of these guys and rub it down the high points of the reinforcing rings will become glossy while the paint in the recesses stays relatively flat. This accomplishes more accurately what folks are trying to do when they dry brush items to bring out details. And all done, now to store these for mounting after the rigging is done. And I'll turn back to masting and rigging now.

Weird, my link isn't working right. To see actual ring clamps, hit the Search button on the Otto Frei site next to where it says ring clamps in the search box.