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vossiewulf

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Everything posted by vossiewulf

  1. vossiewulf
    Safest way is edge tool of some kind until you're close (knife or skew chisel), then needle files/rifflers to finish. Pretty hard to screw it up that way, and generally just need a touch up in the corners with your edge tools.
  2. vossiewulf
    Yes, the two top stringers end one... I thought two frames short but there should be a piece that goes from a couple inches below the top stringer from that frame to the rudder post at the end of the fuselage, that forms a recess on top where the tailplane goes, and it should have a distinctly positive angle of incidence to offset the inherent tail-heaviness. But yes, you can see how assembling an aircraft out of steel tubes required a fancy alignment jig. However, they also didn't have to get it quite as right as you do, very few WWI aircraft had fuselages that were fully cantilever and self-aligning, almost all had internal rigging wires with turnbuckles of some kind, and ground crews had to regularly go through an annoying process of realigning the fuselage through use of those rigging wires because once you got it straight, it immediately started to go out of straight again.
  3. vossiewulf
    Safari is Apple's browser like Chrome or IE. You can download and install it, and once it's installed, run it and use it to access those webarchive files and you should be able to see what's inside that archive.
  4. vossiewulf
    Haven't even gotten it out of the machine yet, was too disgusted to deal with it this evening. Getting the PSU out that always goes in first is never fun. This is the innards, I have always built my own machines. PSU is behind the drive bays top left, water cooler radiator to the left of the CPU. It's i7/5930 overclocked from 3.7 to 4.2Ghz and the video cards at Nvidia GTX 970s.
  5. vossiewulf
    Webarchive is an archive type exclusive to Safari, won't be able to read them without installing and using it.
  6. vossiewulf
    Another one folks may not be aware of are universal tints, as the name implies they can be used to tint lacquer and water based finishes and fillers. However since they're pigment-based they are most commonly used to tint fillers and you can often get a closer match tinting a neutral filler than you can with the glue/sawdust method which (in my experience) tends to come out a bit dark. Universal tints at LMI
  7. vossiewulf
    Yeah I have a laptop but it's not a powerhouse. Not a big deal WRT this project but feels like an arm missing when I don't have access to my full development environment. Overall I like white more at the moment but again no reason to decide now.
  8. vossiewulf
    That's the waterline on the plans. And now I have a new problem, I was on my desktop when the very expensive 1100w power supply suicided, boom computer goes down and we get a nice electrical burning smell. My only hope is that it didn't take the also very expensive motherboard with liquid cooling and the dual video cards and the 32gb DDR5 and the SSDs with it.
  9. vossiewulf
    You can do everything you need to do with paths/splines in Photoshop CC plus have a much more logical workflow for the graphics, Illustrator is really for folks specializing in vector graphics for advertising or other graphic design. I recently took Gerard Delacroix's Commerce de Marseille deck plan (with his permission) and did the below in Photoshop. I'm pretty sure this kind of detail is enough for what you need and as you can see you can generate depth without much difficulty - almost all of the shadows here are just painting very low strength black (like 95% translucent) with a soft-edged brush and building up those those strokes where it should be dark and not so much where it shouldn't be, and limiting where they go by working inside selected areas. If 2D isn't good enough you need to go to 3D, CAD programs are the obvious choice there but I prefer 3d modeling programs, I think the workflows are much easier to use for creation of complex 3D objects, you can always export a DXF/DWG/OBJ and import into a CAD program if you need the plan/drawing generation features. However, the learning curve is both steep and long and it takes real commitment to learn enough to be reasonably productive. I've been using 3DS MAX since it was 3DSr4 for DOS in 1994 including off and on professionally, and there are still big sections of it that I have no clue about. So strongly suggest you go as far as you can 2D.
  10. vossiewulf
    For Steve and anyone else, here's a slightly refined version with a white bottom and without.
  11. vossiewulf
    Looks really nice and clean Tom
  12. vossiewulf
    And being an educated professional debater, I will respond by sticking my tongue out and going PHTHTTTHTHTTHTTT But the reality is of course aesthetics are in the eye of the beholder. There is a woman on my street who has one of those teensy Fiat 500s that already looks like a toy painted in a color I could only describe as 1960s insane asylum interior green, it's this horrible grayish green that makes the muses of beauty all burst into tears simultaneously. But she always seems happy driving her awful tiny ugly car, so there ya go. Steve, I am still considering that also. I'd prefer to work it up that way, doing black on all the lower planks but that will make painting the white a real headache if I decide to go with the white. So I'm still thinking about it.
  13. vossiewulf
    If nothing big enough for lithotripsy I should be ok from here, starting to catch up on sleep after getting very little through much of last week. CT scan would tell with near 100% accuracy but I no longer do them as they're like 100+ normal xrays and I've already had plenty. Work was thoughtful enough to page me, but thankfully it was a transient event and we can do the forensics Monday. Although I wasn't aware of exactly why, I had noticed you had brought yours up to the main wales. I assumed you had documentation showing that was a valid choice, but also clearly waterline makes sense, of the two I think waterline will work better with what I am doing. And yes, although we can go with the paint hides all sins method, as I'm doing elsewhere on the model I'd prefer good color that still shows there is wood beneath with at least some visibility of the planking. Don't worry, it will be fine doing it the correct way with the garboard and the first couple next to it running straight and that makes sense from a keel strength standpoint, but I think my method is better from an aesthetic standpoint
  14. vossiewulf
    Ok obviously this is very quick and dirty - in fact my eyelid is twitching at how quick and dirty it is - but it is roughly what she will look like color-wise based on the current plan, and is enough for the purpose. Please let me know what you think.
  15. vossiewulf
    Oh BTW Rick I heard you about the garboard. I didn't like it, but I heard it I guess you're right, it just makes the stealer problem more complex, much easier to fit stealers in that nice vertical spot where you're not also dealing with bending and twisting.
  16. vossiewulf
    Oh yeah, chances are I won't be able to make three different head types visible , mostly I just thought it was interesting that they used three different kinds of attachment mechanisms. When I said I might machine these, I mean machine a .115" or so groove in solid brass, leaving enough material at the end to properly do the hinges- they clearly weren't thin straps. Then remove material on the strap parts until they're appropriately thin. Just musing mostly, will decide when we actually get there.
  17. vossiewulf
    Well if nothing else we found a post that Mark doesn't like If this forum has achievements that should be one. One thing I will say is the first few are by far the worst. Also, if you're even slightly prone, you should keep a prescription of Toradol around. It's non-narcotic, primarily an anti-inflammatory, but for whatever reason it works to largely stop the really bad pain at the beginning. To get us back to vaguely more pleasant subjects, I made another little sanding block for PSA paper specifically for deck sanding and used it to test my ink idea a bit more. Here it is before inking: And I managed in few minute stretches over the last couple days to "paint" it with three coats, leveling between with 1200 grit. It looks quite good and I think it compares reasonably well with dye in terms of color and translucency while providing an actual film finish over the wood; dye needs to be followed up with a clear coat of some kind. It's more translucent than you see here, it's so red it seems to be overwhelming the CCD in the camera. I was also testing Rhino Glue, which claims to be powerful enough to stick a criminal charge to a rich guy and stick anything to anything. It seems at least closely related to CA, but it smells a bit different, and it sets up slower than CA of similar viscosity. I also scored the wood and sanded the brass with 120 grit in several directions before gluing. Unfortunately I don't think I can use the red ink for the inner gunwales, since the fashion pieces and stern fascia would have to be stripped again (!), and the fashion pieces ripped out and replaced with wood since this finish is translucent. But if I were to do this again, this is what I would use to paint all of the gunwale red surfaces, and I'm now experimenting with black ink instead of the black dye I was intending to use, the latter is quite red and that's been bothering me. And a different subject, I found this interesting pics in Brian Lavery's Ship of the Line series, in vol. II. What I find interesting is that if you want to be accurate, the pintle/gudgeon straps would show three different head types for the screws, the nail-things, and the through-bolts. I'll have to see when I get here but I'm tempted to try to machine these.
  18. vossiewulf
    Thanks Tom. I have them every year to 18 months and have been through the ultrasound lithotripsy procedure a dozen times. I've had them on both sides at the same time a few times, including now. At least the ultrasound I had didn't see anything big, I've had them >1cm. Anything that will pass on its own is no big deal to me, when you get the lithotripsy it's like having a pro boxer beat on your kidney for a few rounds and it's a good solid week at least before you can go take a leak without steeling yourself for the pain. And no, none of the recommended dietary changes have made any difference, as my doctor said some people's chemistry is so good at making them that it doesn't matter. Just something I have to live with.
  19. vossiewulf
    All shoddiness of any kind on my models will now be labeled as highly-skilled efforts at increased realism.
  20. vossiewulf
    Has anyone tried clamping with rare earth magnets? These are 1/4" diameter X 1/10" thick, get about 2lb pull, not sure if that's enough but if it is, they'd be perfect for things like inside gunwale/bulwark planking.
  21. vossiewulf
    LOL. I took it out and it looked exactly like a blue turd. So I tried some de-turdifying squishes before taking the pic, not noticing that I'd actually made it worse
  22. vossiewulf
    Tom, important thing is it sounds like you're making good progress. Last time I checked none of us paid for tickets that said you owed us pictures You'll get to putting them up when you can.
  23. vossiewulf
    Hey Rick, good to see you back But also hope you had a good time on your trip and all went well. I'm semi-down having another run-in with kidney stones, something I have all too much experience with, they started when I was 30. Was all I could do most of this week to spend some time with my teams at work and make sure they were mostly on track. A team in Bangalore has been added to my group as well which also means daily calls for the next few weeks of some length to talk to the local management team to get a grasp of their tempo and needs and get them integrated into my group. It doesn't help that the nature of what we do means that every single person is moving as fast as humanly possible every day so staying ahead of the curve is a challenge. And I was already on call 24/7, but now with Bangalore I'm double extra on call. Easiest way to explain what we do is to say we're payment system first responders. Something significant goes wrong with the payment systems driving large parts of the world's e-commerce system, we get called. We also do root cause analysis and fixes on all non-crisis production issues and do lots of reporting and analytics for business and sales and senior leadership. Haven't gotten anything done last couple days. Hopefully will be doing a bit better this weekend and make some progress.
  24. vossiewulf
    Gaetan, one thing that always seems to happen to me in situations where I'm manufacturing a series of parts, and this was particularly true back in my custom furniture making days, was that just about the time I was becoming really efficient at a macro-process like you're describing above (X number of operations on Y pieces), I'd be done. The last five pieces would always be noticeably better and more quickly done than the first five, and had I another X pieces to do they'd get done way faster than that first batch. But I'd be done, and it was always a bit frustrating because now I knew how to do that particular thing really well, but I'd never need to do it again exactly like that.
  25. vossiewulf
    Another one I should have remembered, anyone who prefers PVA should try this. First, it's high quality PVA designed to hold together guitars that live under pretty significant stresses for decades. But that's not the super spiffy part, this also has an invisible dye that becomes visible under black/UV lighting. Guitar makers can't afford a single spot of glue anywhere, and someone at some point had this great idea and it's in common use by luthiers now. All you need is a UV light handy, and you'll never have a stained finish ruined by a spot of glue you couldn't see. I've never tested, but it's supposed to be fully repairable with joints separating at 190 degrees. LMI PVA Instrument Glue

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