vossiewulf
-
Posts
1,458 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by vossiewulf
-
Good news, been tapping my foot waiting on an order to finally leave Canada so I could compare it with Syren rope. I think I like your "natural" color better but we'll see. Anyway, I'm sure that's a weight off your mind! -
It's not the harder steel that would make it last longer, it's the slightly beefier steel you'll have on a point with a carving knife that will make it last longer. Xacto blades are just so skinny that the slightest twist and pop there goes the point. The advantage to you with a real knife will be a much sharper edge than Xacto can produce and the knife edge will last orders of magnitude longer than the edge on an Xacto. Further, if you really want to improve your results to the maximum, get a matched pair of single-bevel Japanese marking knives so that you can cut a perfectly square edges on your card pieces no matter which direction you need to cut. Just be aware that any edge that is really pointy needs to be handled with care. Take a look at the left and right hand Kiridashi knives at 18mm. If you want to give something a try PM me and we'll walk through the details of what you need.
-
Can't help but like and comment, your Winchelsea is outstanding.
- 400 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
- (and 1 more)
-
The large grain of oak is not appropriate for small ships, using oak for small scales results in ships that look like toys. Wooden ship modeling wood has always been as fine-grained as possible while holding good detail and being reasonably workable. The traditional wood used on contemporary models was European boxwood, a very fine-grained wood. It's hard to get and therefore expensive, so most modelers have turned to other fine-grain woods like pear, Castillo boxwood, cherry, or yellow cedar.
-
Thanks Gregory and Ian. Gregory, yes I have used drill bits in the past to make consistent loops, but I can make tighter loops with the pliers. Which I use depends on the situation, if I have 142 circles to make I'll definitely wind the wire onto a drill bit and cut the circles off one by one.
- 714 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- lady nelson
- victory models
- (and 1 more)
-
Still waiting for the 1/4"/6mm four jaw chuck key which is required to make the masts and yards, I've been trying to make some progress. So I started by making some hooks out of 22 gauge brass wire, which came out nice enough but they look a little big to me, I'm going to try again with 24 gauge. I probably should have zoomed in more, but I think you can still see that I filed away one side of my round-nosed pliers to be able to make pretty small eyes. I also started on the deadeyes and chainplates, the first thing I did was relieve the edges of the lanyard holes in the deadeyes with a small stone-setting bur. I then expanded the photoetched deadeye strops to fit over the deadeyes, then crimped them down on the deadeyes and painted them black along with the chainplate photoetched pieces. Cutting the P/E on an acrylic sheet with a see-through hold down, two things that help prevent pieces from shooting off into oblivion when cut free,
- 714 replies
-
- 6
-
-
- lady nelson
- victory models
- (and 1 more)
-
Not to mention Trial has studding sails and the lower yards don't seem to be in a square section where the sheaves are, like they are in Petersson and the model you linked. The only conclusion I've been able to reach is that there was very little consistency between cutter rigs, unless we're seeing time period differences that we're not recognizing due to the vague dates of most of the models involved. I'm still pretty stumped on a coherent plan to move forward. I have to choose one of these rigs and I'm still not sure which one is most right for my cutter. The plan Chris put together for LN shows a mast farther forward, taller, with more rake, with three yards on two masts, and it's more simplified than what I want. But I'm not sure either Cheerful or Petersson/the linked model would be more correct.
-
I don't know about that, it's a fungus so if you leave some in you're risking infecting the rest of the holly on your boat. I just don't see that a little bit of realism (even if we grant that it is) is worth the risk of spoiling an entire project.
-
Sandpaper Grit
vossiewulf replied to Malazan's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Don't forget scrapers. Fully sharpened scrapers generate fine shavings, and are excellent for smoothing down planking because they remove material fast, they don't make sawdust that goes everywhere, and they leave a very smooth finish that can be finalized quickly with light sanding of 400 or 600 grit. The big one in the photo below is particularly good, I'd never used a heavy scraper like that but it's very good at cutting. Unfortunately StewMac (luthier supply) don't seem to make it anymore, but the light spring steel mini scrapers are still available.
-
The first thing I see (and thanks again Gregory for posting this link) is that this cutter bears a rig almost identical to that captured by Petersson in his book. In fact I think we can use model to correct Petersson's oversights, like the lower yard with two sheaves, only one of which was shown in use. On this model we have the two sheaves present in the lower yard and both are in use. It has five stays a side like Petersson with the excess rope on the third/sixth pairs going to Burton pendants. It has a single wide spreader for the topmast shrouds, very unlike the top and spreaders and topmast shrouds on Cheerful. Then we have the odd tackle on the backstays and the forestay looped over a hard metal strap, just like Petersson showed. That still doesn't make sense to me. Hoping that we can figure this out for my and Tim's sakes and it would be good to have a topic beginner cutter builders can be pointed to that answers questions about cutter rigs.
-
I like holly, I used it for my LN deck. But if you decide to stick with holly, at a minimum I wouldn't use anything from that piece of wood, too much risk of blue showing up on the boat and that would be tragic.
-
Gregory, thanks for that link. I'd like to comment on it/ask questions, we should probably move the discussion back to the other topic.
-
Tim I was recently trying to sort out cutter rigging also, and found that Lennarth Petersson makes his own errors, for example he shows two sheaves in the lower yard but his plan only makes use of one of them. I eventually decided to use Chuck's Cheerful rigging plan since the contemporary model is in the gallery and I can confirm everything there.
-
Change out anything plywood for solid wood versions. You'll be happier.
-
I agree with you about painting a hand-planked hull, but it's pretty hard to get a really good result on a ship with just a single planking. And although it looks like you're doing pretty well, you have to remember this is your first first planking 😊 and that pretty much means oopses. I definitely had them on the first planking of Lady Nelson, but that allowed me to figure out all the things that didn't work for me so the second planking went very smoothly and neatly. You don't get that second chance here so considering this is your first hull to set a goal of just doing as neat a job as possible and making sure you as much as possible know what you are doing (as in, go watch the planking tutorial videos and go read some build logs in the planking stage to get an idea of different methods in use) and aren't just plunging ahead on instinct and basic woodworking skills. In this case it's important that you have a grasp of how it really worked so you can recreate it correctly.
- 7 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Henriette Marie
- Billing Boats
- (and 1 more)
-
Hey Gaetan, glad to see you are still around! 😊 And eve happier to see that knife is still serving you well.
-
I actually made some sawdust today ripping square castello boxwood stock for the masts and yards, so I'm officially working on Lady Nelson again. That's the up side. The downside is that after ripping the stock and mounting the four-jaw chuck on the lathe, I found that my four jaw chuck key went missing in the move. And Little Machine Shop is out of stock. Found one that should work at another place, but it won't arrive until probably the 16th, so can't make any more progress on the masts and yards until then. Also, my basic plan to do the Cheerful rig on the LN is pretty crazy. Starting with the something I didn't anticipate, which is that Cheerful is altogether bigger than LN, about 12 feet longer at scale. Further, the mast is stepped pretty far back and has little rake, while the mast step for the LN is about four scale feet forward of that in Cheerful and this will require some mast rake. Bottom line is sometimes I wished I could just follow the directions 😊
- 714 replies
-
- 3
-
-
-
- lady nelson
- victory models
- (and 1 more)
-
Congratulations on shipping an impressive kit! That really will build up into a masterpiece in the right hands.
-
I didn't supply the reference photos, just a possible solution😊. The texture on what I pointed you too seems almost perfect, but the stones on the beach there have been bleached out on top. I would scatter and glue down the crushed slate and then give it light, very thin coats of white and gray until it fully matches the reference.
-
Another quick update, @Chuck was kind enough to send me his Cheerful rigging plans in PDF form, and I just took them down to Staples for sizing down to 75% and printing, that's the conversion factor for 1:48 to 1:64. So I'm going to do the full Cheerful rig on my Lady Nelson, making it even MORE kitbashed, which didn't seem possible 😊 I also put in an order at Syren for the standing rigging-dyed rope, something I had overlooked when I bought a bunch of rope from Chuck before. Only another week or so before I can really start moving forward again.
- 714 replies
-
- 6
-
-
- lady nelson
- victory models
- (and 1 more)
-
This looks like it would work. I googled "crushed slate" and found that it's a thing and it comes in multiple grades i.e. size of resulting pieces. So if you don't like what I linked, do the same search to see more options.
-
Thanks, and I understand 😊 If sharpening isn't for you then scalpel is your best option. I just want people to know that there is another option that is superior in most ways as long as you can learn to sharpen. I personally find sharpening to be a very zen-like exercise where you stop thinking and get totally into the process. In other words, I like sharpening things, I find it very relaxing.
-
.02"/.6mm on the one with the tiny blade up to .07"/2.01mm on the Japanese knives. These are all detail knives specifically for general-purpose precision trimming and cutting and carving. Actually the single-bevel knives were made out of Japanese marking knives, not Hock blades, I forgot. You can get a matched pair of RC63 (very hard and therefore can be made very very sharp) sans handles here. For $14 each which is a steal in my opinion. The Japanese don't use them with handles, so we're the odd Westerners making wood handles for their marking knives 😊
-
Not at all there are lots of plastic modelers, look in the build logs for subjects from 1901-present day and you'll find plenty of plastic builds, not to mention card as well.
- 14 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- portland
- BlueJacket Shipcrafters
- (and 1 more)
Our Emblem ®
