
ChrisLinden
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Did not get much done today. I need some thicker black rope for my lanyards and some walnut wood or similar to make new anchors. I completely ran out. Hopefully the local hobby store has some materials for me so i can restock
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Hi Dave, Sounds like a good approach. On my first wooden ship (the Pinta) it felt completely alien to me as well. No matter how much photo's and explanation pdf's I read - it still felt really unclear. Now after having done it a couple of times, you sort of get a grip and understand how it works. No ship is the same either, so for some its important to get the wales in place first, on others you might work differently. Even if you use full strips of wood, you can still simulate planking afterwords by cutting/pressing indents at the plank heads. For wales I used flexible linde wood, a whole strip. Then afterwards I cut in the joints/connections.
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Here's an example: The wales keep their width all across. Between, a set of planks keeps their full width. When you get lower near the water line tapering is required.
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The wales, if im correct are not tapered. They are the same width across. On some builds its easier to place a wale first, then plank downward and above it. Others plank the whole hull normally, then add wales on top afterwards.
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Hi Dave, I am by no means as experienced as others here. What I like to do is keep as many planks their full width all across, for as long as possible. Especially at the top part of the ship near the decks/gunports. This makes it easy to keep consistent heights and reference points. The lower you get the more tapering is needed to follow the curves of the hull nicely. I am not a 100% sure if there is even "an official" way. Most builders seem to apply their own take on it, with little differences on the same concept.
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Worked on finishing various odd jobs on the back of the ship. I put the center "insignia" ornament in place. Tidied up the windows. Still working on the paint job of all the ornaments and wood. I completely repainted the green stained woods and shaded them using inks. I guess the border between what is a wooden model ship and a warhammer miniature is beginning to fade ;-) In this fashion I could even re-paint the entire ship hehe.
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Wow that's some clean smooth planking. Wish I was that tidy lol !
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Hey guys I spent the afternoon putting all canon hatches on. I've got 2 more to do and a few ropes to finish them. I also put all canons carriages on the ship, with a very simple fitting. I know its not historically correct but I did not wan't to go through the pain of adding full tackle. The build is already hard enough for me as it is. I think the canons was absolutely the most boring job so far, glad its over. I will spend the coming weeks finishing various odd jobs around the hull, cleaning up some details, paint work and re-doing the anchors to be a bit more good looking. Then I think I am ready to start on the masts and rigging... drumroll!
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Question: Is the Friesland build log of user Great Galleons still around ? I remember using it as a reference in the beginning and wanted to recommend it to someone.
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Hey all just want to let you know weve sold our house and are moving so i didnt have time to build. Hopefully in our new house but that will we august. Until that time we live in a temp room with most belongings in storage
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Thanks Jos, appreciate it. Im already thinking about a possible next build, but this one is so far from finishing yet....
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Hey guys I was away from the hobby for a while. Since I've made a big push on finishing the hull Here's a brief summary: Finished the lanterns on the stern Started adding the last deck furnishings for the rigging, gratings etc Started adding all the canon carriages Started adding the gunport hatches Small repairs here and there One thing I found particularly useful was adding a small nail into the back of the gunport hatches. This makes them easy to pick up and turn during painting. But the main reason was to add strength of fitting them onto the ship and ease of placement. I drilled tiny holes just above the gunports. Then put some glue on the hatch and stick the pin in. You don't have to hold them in place while drying. And they don't snap off so easily as just glueing them. I love it. Here's some pics of my progress.
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Hi there, Ive been really busy at work lately, and with family life. In the meantime I've been trying a new way of "build log" >> Watch me live on Twitch http://www.twitch.tv/chrisutomik
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Hi, Ive used a few different approaches and experimentation. I recommend trying it on spare parts first before going onto your real ship. For the metal ornaments: I spray them black with a matte acrylic spraypaint. I get these 2,- a pop at a local Action store. Its a perfect base to then paint on with water based acrylic paints such as Valejo or Warhammer Citadel paints. I've written a tutorial here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8417-painting-tutorial-ornaments-cast-metal-parts/?p=249680 Basically start building up from a dark, subdued color, then slowly build up more highlights by drybrushing. Use inks/shades/washes to create shadows and a matte aged look. Bow wood: The wood on the bow was the light white bendy wood (dont know the english name) cause I had troubles bending the walnut. I used Nuln Oil wash from Citadel on it, 2 coats. It soaks into the wood and stains it, giving that deep, old, aged wood look. Mind that wood glue remnants are really visible, the ink wont do anything there. Railings wood: The wood here was walnut that I painted solid with Dryad Bark (Citadel color) acrylic paint. So I completely covered the natural wood. When dry I used a fine sanding paper to sand the edges, creating a "highlight effect" because the lighter original wood color pops through again. I hope this helps. Let me know if you want a step by step walkthrough with pictures!
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