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Everything posted by Nirvana
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Robert, from PNW with wind and snow in the air, I greet you warmly to our amazing group. I did a little research and found this website with some picture of the model you are to build. It's not much but maybe to some help.
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I have run out of words!
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Glen, Nice shroud work.
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Attached the laser unit to a camera tri-pod about 4ft away, this way I got some working space. Then use a pencil to make tick marks along the line. Then you can start masking off for painting.
- 141 replies
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- sir winston churchill
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Messis, When I did the waterline on my Bluenose I used a laserlever, I have a cheap one........ you can get them from any hardware store or online. With that tool you will for certain get a straight waterline. I am to buy a new one for my next ship.
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Messi's. Now that looks right. Great save.
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Carl, I am fully aware about that.
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Messis, beautiful build you have going there. I truly hope the picture in post #13 is messing with me. But the waterline doesn't seem to be straight to me. If I put a ruler on top of the picture between stern and stem, you have a drop in the middle
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Oh my, now I need a bigger wallet for all the items!
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Lou, I just looked into this guys ebay sales...... beautiful items, high price but I do have the Revell Connie that I want to modify. Maybe further down the road after the move to the coast and the economy has stabilized. Yes, me and The Admiral is moving this year to the Shelton area.
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John, you can't go wrong with kits from BlueJacket Inc or a kit from Chuck Passaro. Both of them are sponsors. Use the search feature in the build logs for the name of ship you like to build. Take it from there. Good luck in your search.
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I am using Chuck's cleats in the building of the Bluenose, see the latest picture in my build log where I had to alter them according to the plans. Take a look at this picture of the fife rail, and where you have the base legs.
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From PNW
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I have done a couple "hulls" using F360. One thing I figured out was to center the canvas origin on the 00 bulkhead location where the waterline meets. This way I found it easier to work forth and aft in right sequence, naming each plane accordingly to the bulkhead. However, the only issue I have had is to line up the imported sketch to 0/90 angle towards the planes. Looking good though. I am to work the F360 tonight after work.
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So I got the fife rail together, for awhile I didn't know whether to go with painted or varnished version, I went for the a latter. Somehow it got a more weathered appearance. At this stage, the "rail" is not glued into place, cleats are to be added to the base legs. This has to happen before the final glue down.
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Can i live without a BYRNES TABLE SAW
Nirvana replied to shihawk's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I am running an older Proxxon. It's not being used much so I can't justify a Byrnes........ yet! However the tips link is useful for me as well. -
That planking looks great! What kind of tool did you come up with?
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Dave, looking good But you have put yourself in a difficult situation since you removed the stanchions from the bulkheads. You need them for guidance when planking "above deck". A friend did just like you and ran into issues. You need the strength to get the planking right.
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