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Nirvana

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Everything posted by Nirvana

  1. Nirvana
    Very nicely done, it's getting there.
  2. Nirvana
    Julie, That's a very nice "wrap" Beautiful done! I know it's way down the list but how are you planning of attacking the mast, this considering the two parts that has to be joined and tapered?
  3. Nirvana
    Mark, No problem on my side, got the news article. Lately on the Smithsonian TV channel there has been two very interesting programs. One is called Hell Below which being broadcasted Sunday evenings. The other one is called The Battle of The Atlantic. Well worth to watch.
  4. Nirvana
    Julie, that looks so good. A friend of mine didn't put in material between the bulkheads and got problem with the planking.
  5. Nirvana
    Amazing and extremely superb craftsmanship!
  6. Nirvana
    I wouldn't worry to much about rugginess and roughness, use a light touch with steelwool on top .... not to much and you will have a surface that will with time look amazing. This looks real good!
  7. Nirvana
    This tool is still sold by WoodCraft, in store running at 260 dollars. At one time my local store had a demo of the machine with a "person representing ArborTech", unfortunate he broke three machines within half an hour. He couldn't believe it and claimed it had must happened during the shipping. The local store owner was extremely unhappy and canceled the remaining one and half hour of demo giving out vouchers for 50 dollar in store for tools for 8 people that had shown up. What happened afterwards I have no idea. Personally I bought hand chisels and got additional rebate.
  8. Nirvana
    Here is the link for our fellow members located in the USA Minislip
  9. Nirvana
    Mati, I don't have any words to express your delicate finish. Outstanding!
  10. Nirvana
    Aydin, You mentioned to put fiberglass/epoxy on top of it all. I think that will cover the beauty of the mahogany. I would recommend to abort the planking, take of the current strips off and start over again, working with epyxy instead. I am afraid you are to experience problems with the exposure against the water. Specially after all the nice work you have put in. Another area to work is the one around the prop and rudder shafts, this before any second planking. When I build my T37, the instructions read - epoxy cover all the inside. Even though I have only used epoxy I have a problem area on the deck where water finds its way in. Oh, as for clear finish, I used marine varnish on all, none painted area. It is just my two cents for what ever they are worth.
  11. Nirvana
    Pure artistic, I have no words on how to compliment you for this amazing tool build. Beautiful!
  12. Nirvana
    Aydin, Don't make it to thick!...... carefully with mixture as this is almost like science
  13. Nirvana
    I think the question should be directed to Model-Expo. Something is definitely wrong. Good luck! You have all of our support.
  14. Nirvana
    Joe, Most woods yes, some are more prone to spring back than others. I used water and heat in combo for my Longboat, next build I will try the heat option only. Wood will expand in water; once drying, strips can get a little shorter and also the width. It may not be much, but can have hull twisting issues where you have "spot glued" to frames. Only my two cents
  15. Nirvana
    Aydin, Keith has a point here, which I think many of us never thought about when you started your build and specially going for RC version. Some of us in here has built RC boats; including me, see my T37 sailing yacht. I never used anything but Epoxy! It is messy, but it is a guaranty from water damages. I just recalled the instructions from my RC build. Even the inside of the hull must be treated otherwise you will have problems in the future. Water will always finds it way in! Otherwise beautiful build!
  16. Nirvana
    Aydin, That looks so great, looking forward to next part of the build.
  17. Nirvana
    Tony, Very nice approach for the "waterline display" Looking forward of more.
  18. Nirvana
    Mark, Any cad program can have this issue, and it's the connecting nods no matter layer. One of the nods got connected with another in a hidden layer. To solve it is to go through each layer making sure all nods are closed and connected. Otherwise as you write, start again. Good luck
  19. Nirvana
    Mike, Even though the laser burns will be covered, many of us has experienced less contact with glue when charded. Using a combo of CA (spot (like spot welding)) along with wood glue and your structure will be solid. Clean up any wet spots from glue before setting!
  20. Nirvana
    Okay, not that we are supposed to used cursing words in this forum. but what the $#@$#&*%$ have I missed! These machines are absolutely crazy! What is the pricetag of the Micro Mill? Not that I can afford a regular one as of today, but I am curious. Must be in the price of an Aston Martin Db5 Vintage
  21. Nirvana
    Just make sure you are sanding all the laser chard off!
  22. Nirvana
    Mike, Seems like the cross sections kits are on the hights right now. Your start and being inspired by Cobr@, well I am taking the first seat on this build. Having Cobr@ as a reference you can't go wrong. This is looking good.
  23. Nirvana
    Bob, I think you should revise the size of the base, and case. The Longboat itself is not that big, so I would consider a smaller base and case. Some where out there is a relation chart between model size and case size. However, what you have accomplished with the base and more is amazing. Beautiful done!
  24. Nirvana
    Maury, I have been looking at the angle measuring tool from Mikro-Mark (think this is in their RR section) so with other words, it works?!
  25. Nirvana
    Great finish on the final. I like the "longboat on the way"

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