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Nirvana

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Nirvana

  1. Aydin, You mentioned to put fiberglass/epoxy on top of it all. I think that will cover the beauty of the mahogany. I would recommend to abort the planking, take of the current strips off and start over again, working with epyxy instead. I am afraid you are to experience problems with the exposure against the water. Specially after all the nice work you have put in. Another area to work is the one around the prop and rudder shafts, this before any second planking. When I build my T37, the instructions read - epoxy cover all the inside. Even though I have only used epoxy I have a problem area on the deck where water finds its way in. Oh, as for clear finish, I used marine varnish on all, none painted area. It is just my two cents for what ever they are worth.
  2. Pure artistic, I have no words on how to compliment you for this amazing tool build. Beautiful!
  3. I think the question should be directed to Model-Expo. Something is definitely wrong. Good luck! You have all of our support.
  4. Joe, Most woods yes, some are more prone to spring back than others. I used water and heat in combo for my Longboat, next build I will try the heat option only. Wood will expand in water; once drying, strips can get a little shorter and also the width. It may not be much, but can have hull twisting issues where you have "spot glued" to frames. Only my two cents
  5. Aydin, Keith has a point here, which I think many of us never thought about when you started your build and specially going for RC version. Some of us in here has built RC boats; including me, see my T37 sailing yacht. I never used anything but Epoxy! It is messy, but it is a guaranty from water damages. I just recalled the instructions from my RC build. Even the inside of the hull must be treated otherwise you will have problems in the future. Water will always finds it way in! Otherwise beautiful build!
  6. Mark, Any cad program can have this issue, and it's the connecting nods no matter layer. One of the nods got connected with another in a hidden layer. To solve it is to go through each layer making sure all nods are closed and connected. Otherwise as you write, start again. Good luck
  7. Mike, Even though the laser burns will be covered, many of us has experienced less contact with glue when charded. Using a combo of CA (spot (like spot welding)) along with wood glue and your structure will be solid. Clean up any wet spots from glue before setting!
  8. Okay, not that we are supposed to used cursing words in this forum. but what the $#@$#&*%$ have I missed! These machines are absolutely crazy! What is the pricetag of the Micro Mill? Not that I can afford a regular one as of today, but I am curious. Must be in the price of an Aston Martin Db5 Vintage
  9. Just make sure you are sanding all the laser chard off!
  10. Mike, Seems like the cross sections kits are on the hights right now. Your start and being inspired by Cobr@, well I am taking the first seat on this build. Having Cobr@ as a reference you can't go wrong. This is looking good.
  11. Bob, I think you should revise the size of the base, and case. The Longboat itself is not that big, so I would consider a smaller base and case. Some where out there is a relation chart between model size and case size. However, what you have accomplished with the base and more is amazing. Beautiful done!
  12. Maury, I have been looking at the angle measuring tool from Mikro-Mark (think this is in their RR section) so with other words, it works?!
  13. Thank you Chuck for that explanation. I have been wondering the same and it seems Cheerful isn't the only one with this configuration.
  14. Chuck, I didn't know you had ninja skills as well. Hopefully you don't have chards of small pieces laying around, be thourogh with the clean up.
  15. Pat, Happy Modeling Birthday, this is the day when we hide from greeters (after a certain age) and truly engaging with our ships. Any way, Happy Birthday! Besides I like all the knots!
  16. Looks like you have it prefect aligned with frame #5 in center for the picture. Like the idea of using plexiglas for alignment.
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