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Nirvana

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Everything posted by Nirvana

  1. My first home made belaying pin, just a little time consuming but I do like the final product. Now I have to make another three (four, one extra for safety).
  2. This is what Chuck wrote back to me upon my question - How did you do the fine belaying pins in the pictures? "The few times I made them using a Dremel. I used boxwood placed in the Dremel and just a small file to make them. One at the time like it was a mini lathe. I have the flex shaft with a small handle so I can hold it steady. That's about it. It takes a long time, and I usually spend a few hours at a time making them."
  3. I think I am one of many who didn't like the brass pins provided with the kit I decided to take on the challenge of making my own. After a pm to Chuck, he explained how he did his. The Dremel with the extension shaft did the trick. This is my first attempt with the boxwood. And only a few minutes job. I used blade #11 along with some fine files.
  4. John, I think I picked it up from another builder from the group build. Can't remember who. The wipe on is very easy to use and you will get a nice finish surface along with it. This specially for the keel and frames. Besides it gives you a protective surface. Looking forward to see your build log.
  5. Once the glue settled, it was time to put a block between the foam and the thwart, this allowed me to attach the support band. Next up is the holes for the belaying pins.
  6. After some trimming and adjustment, I washed the brass to clear any surface from any grime and fat. This to ensure a better surface for the blackening. I am not using the Black-it product, but a product that I found at the local RR hobby shop. This product is probably the same as Black-it but seems to do a great job. This one is called rail weathering solution product number #49-104 and comes from Micro Engineering Company, it is recommended to start be diluted at 1:2. However, you can use the concentrate directly. Don't leave the cap off - the fumes can start blackening items in its surroundings! I learned this the hard but interesting way. One pint cost me back in 2009 USD 27.00 I used a piece of blue foam which I covered with clear tape and the pinned the thwart in place, then CA glued the mast ring in place. This way the two items doesn't get stuck to any other surfaces.
  7. The band strap that "secures" the mast ring to the thwart is not cut equal see the bottom side. Will not be visible once in place.
  8. Progress with the mast thwart, I did cut a small piece from the mast material to get the right diameter. Thereafter the half circle in the thwart was made along with other side of the "iron ring" (brass).
  9. Found this product thanks to a friend in FB. Glowforge is US company based in Seattle WA! What it seems to me, the machines are made in the USA. Check the machines out, there are three versions of them, starting at USD 1995
  10. I have the MS Bluenose awaiting as next project. During the time I have gattered a library of various books and practicums related to her. I have extra wood for her as well from Jeff (HobbyMill), blocks and rigging line from Chuck - Syren Ship Model Company. One book I can recommend, which can be to help is Frank Mastini's book Ship Modeling Simplified. A book very much based around the Bluenose. Good luck which ever you choose.
  11. Okay, Here is a link to the newspaper (in Swedish) along with pictures and video from the found. Solen It has also been confirmed from The Swedish Maritime Museum this is the ship.
  12. Yesterday (Wednesday), another Swedish ship from 17th century was found. This time at a depth of 6m (about 18t). She is slightly bigger than Wasa with 66 cannons. Her name is Solen (the Sun), built in Lubeck 1669, sunk 1694. Armament: 16x24 pounder 8x18 pounder 24x12 pounder 2x8 pounder 14x6 pounder 2x4 pounder 4x3 pounder Length: 45meter Width:12 meter
  13. Again, I am trying to figure out whether to go painted or au natural. As above the piece from the kit but painted and 50/50 varnish on the boxwood. Leaning towards the painted in order to get some contrast, but the natural looks good too........ HELP! Maybe doing two sets and then take it from there......hmmmm
  14. I broke a knee today....... Well at least it wasn't my own knee, but one for the longboat. This resulted I made one more before realizing Chuck already had made sure of two extra from the laser cut board. However, take a look at this I am more than pleased how the boxwood knee turned out. Now I am wondering if I should do all six of them in boxwood. On the other hand if they are to be painted then it won't matter but if I leave them natural then I should do it?!
  15. The hinges are made and in place. They turned out the way I wanted them. Working with the 110gram paper was quite an easy approach. I have decided not to paint the seats. Looking at the picture it looks like I could have put simulated "going through bolts" in place.
  16. Mike, I would hang it on the wall in the workshop, as decoration. Our workshops should have a nautical theme.
  17. I still don't know whether to go with natural or painted cockpit. After some experimenting the hinge in the last picture is a 110gram papercard with the 28 gauge black wire from the kit. I did a trial with brass but I didn't like it. I like this version better.
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